TC Pro alternative with a pointier toe?
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Does this exist? Love the TCs, love the flatness and the stiffness, but sometimes the toe profile kind of sucks for small pockets. Every so often I find myself having to use silly beta because I cant get enough out of the smaller-than-mono pocket feet. Skill issue for sure, but also a gear issue to some degree. I've got a pair of katakis that are the next best thing I've found, and will break them out every so often for this type of situation, but they aren't as stiff, and the discomfort that comes with the downturn is of questionable utility on the slightly slabby to slightly overhung limestone climbing that is my meat and potatoes. They're also discontinued, so I try to save them for specific ocasions. I've tried miura lace (hated the fit), Otaki (dislike the velcro, and downturn) and katana lace (similar to kataki, I thought, but the toes had less of a point) So, for those of you who love the TCs, have you found anything that fits similarly, retains the flat sole and stiffness, but has more of a "point" to it? |
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Tenaya Tarifa isn't as stiff as the TC, but they match pretty much everything else you've described. They're really thin, which is great for putting them into small pockets and great for vertical to slightly overhung limestone. |
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Thanks Cedric, any info on how the sizing compares to TCs? I'm not sure where I'd try them on locally, so would have to order online. |
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Can’t speak to their performance on limestone pockets, but I really like the BD aspect pro for narrower (granite) cracks. The toe box on the aspect pro feels much lower profile compared to my TC pros in the same size, I really notice a difference when climbing finger cracks or thinner. Otherwise they feel pretty similar to the TC pros |
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I wear unparallel “uprise pros” and sometimes my skwamas for finger cracks (although the down turn sucks, the toe is better suited). I think Didier wears skwamas for finger cracks. I know a ton of people who like their katanas for this reason also. I’m big on the flatness of my uprise pros, no down turn, but they are super stiff so they can edge on little nubbins and pockets. In terms of skill issue, no disrespect, you would definitely benefit from practicing your Rand smears .. I’ve sent 5.12 in my TCs and pretty sure the man himself sent the dawn wall in them. I’ve bought TCs a half size smaller than my comfy ones for more of a performance fit. |
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A snug Katana is the go to for this. The Otaki, the new boostic |
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Sean Andel wrote: I've heard you can call Tenaya and speak with a representative. They're apparently surprisingly responsive! You can also head to r/climbingshoes and they might have a thread or two on the sizing. Worst case scenario, I would buy from rei and just return until you get the right size haha |
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Thanks guys. Ended up picking up a Katana 1/2 a size up from the last pair I tried for now, because they were available locally. Just gonna cope with the downturn, hope the sizing makes it less irritating. Next time I get up to Denver, I plan on checking out the Tenayas and Unparallels. I imagine people are going to object to me dry tooling my way up Shelf Rd. classics, so the crampons will have to go on the backburner for now. I'll put an update here if any of these things end up being a good solution. Wish 5.10 still made the Verdon lace, stumbled across those in my search, and they looked they would have been perfect, barring fit issues. If anyone has a pair of those they want to part with, shoot me a DM. |
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PRONK |
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I'm excited for the pronk but it's not available yet. Maybe check out the women's Katana. It differs from the men's version in that the rubber is grip2 instead of edge, so it's a little softer and stickier for slab, and it has a split sole for a little more flexibility, which helps balance the downturn on slabby stuff. It has a thinner and pointier toe box than tcs. |