Black Dike NH avalanche and rescue
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“Two ice climbers had to be rescued after getting stuck in an avalanche on a New Hampshire mountain Sunday, authorities said. New Hampshire Fish and Game said they got a call around noon for two climbers who were trapped in an avalanche off Cannon Cliffs in Franconia State Park. Authorities said the two people began their hike around 8 a.m. Sunday and were planning on ice climbing the Black Dike route.” https://www.wmur.com/article/ice-climbers-avalanche-cannon-mountain-new-hampshire/63810681
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They went up to black dike on a stormy day after a few biggish storms in the last week to 10 days. The base usually loads up pretty badly, and it released as they stood at the base of the climb after approaching. The male got carried 300’ down the talus field and was only partially buried. His female partner was able to help him get out and after rescuers got them down and checked out they drove themselves to the hospital to get checked for fairly minor injuries. They were very lucky. I don’t know anything about them as climbers but it seems like some inexperienced decisions, although I could be wrong. |
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There is a known history of avalanches in that location. However. We have all been guilty of making those kinds of decisions. In this sport If we get away with it we are heroes. If we get caught we are Zeros. Show me an avalanche instructor that claims to have never gone out in sketchy conditions or gotten away with something and you know he is a lying sack of poo. Eric and I went up there in a big storm once . late start due to car trouble. It's dumping hard so we hike up far left and get right under the cliff at the lower start of WG. Hug the cliff the rest of the way. I wanted to lead Fafnir. I got hit by a nice powder avalanche at the base of that steep little pillar just before the belay and another good 15 second shot at the top of the pillar. Brought Eric up and convinced myself that I did not have the right rock gear to lead the last pitch. We rapped back to the bottom of the dike and our packs. We then made the group decision that the slopes below us were too snow loaded for safe travel and that the best way home was to climb the Dike and descend through the woods. Started up the Dike at 4:30pm ish.Eric on his first ever lead of P2 of the Dike we would get nailed by these things about every 20 min. I got to follow this pitch by headlamp and lead P3 with totally fogged glasses and headlamps. I wore two of them to try and see through the snow. It was an awesome butt slide through the woods down to the bike path. Had we been flushed you all would have been saying I told you so.. ;) This is absolutely one of my favorite trips up the Dike. Would I do it again? No, I am almost 63 and a bit smarter now but I am super glad that we did do it. |
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In climbing at least up until very recently its been rather cut and dry. One takes a big risk and succeeds they are a hero. One takes the same risk and fails they are a zero... Now of course we have the hand wringers who will also criticize the success stories. Naturally skill has as much to do with it as luck. Some read the conditions correctly and take the right line and have a bit of good luck. Others misread the conditions and have bit of bad luck. Some simply were in way over their heads and deserve the criticism. |
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While agreeing with what Nick has said, for those who do not live in northern NH, VT or the Mtns of Maine, the weather in the week preceding the accident included several days with 3-5 inch “ flurries” together with strong winds afterwards. The weather forecast on Sat. night for the area around Cannon was for a major winter storm with 8 to 14 inches of snow and high winds starting about 3 am on Sunday morning ( it actually started a few hours later). This storm had been the “lead” in the weather report for at least the previous 4 days, so no surprise.). The snow-freezing rain line was not able to be accurately predicted, but was in the forecast. Winds of 40 to 60 mph were forecast ( correctly) to follow the storm. So…were these world-class climbers who knowingly set out to practice climbing in some of the worst conditions anywhere? ( If you’ve never been in a situation ice climbing when the only thing you can do is hold on with four points of contact while the wind gusts and spindrift pour over you, then it’s hard to imagine climbing in a winter “n’easter.“ ) The above is an actual question..not rhetorical. ….or, were they climbers who set out not knowing, or caring about the weather circumstances? BTW , On Monday WMUR ( NH’s TV station, an ABC affiliate) took the unprecedented step of announcing the dangerous avalanche conditions in the form of a TV alert similar to what is used for tornado, flood or very severe T-storm warnings. ( By Monday the winds must have form super-unstable windslab on the Presidentials. 147 mph winds on the summit of Mt Washington. ) |
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Not world-class alpinists. Just a pair of climbers over-stoked and not really aware of the realities of the terrain/weather. Lessons learned, luckily without too much of a cost to their bodies... |
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You don't need to be world class to enjoy climbing in Full conditions. Back in my day we read the White Spider and wanted to have our own near death experiences. That's what being young and adventurists is all about. Meanwhile I see the avi instructors and ski guides posting about finding the powder. Certainly that is rather sketchy right now but we won't bash them unless they have an incident. One of my friends is IFMGA everything and guided Willoughby Sunday. Gnarly looking video but those clients got a heck of a story to tell and a great experience. Hope they tipped big. Heck When Pat was just starting out he and I bailed off the Dike on a day that was rather nasty. Seriously fckn cold and windy as I recall. I suspect the vultures would have had a field day had we frozen to death but luckily we ended up in a coffee shop for croissants instead ;) |
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Experience and perspective change everything for sure... If I hit the Dike in the conditions we backed off of that day Nick, I'd be like "damn this is FAT" But that's the difference between your first time on it, and having climbed it 40+ times since! |
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It was fat but it was also cold and vindy. Experience , age and wisdom has taught me to cherry pick my climbing days.. |
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The fine folk at IME confirmed at least one of the climbers ( no names given) was quite experienced; they didn’t know the other climber at all ! ( the one avalanched) |
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Brian Monetti wrote: Hey Brian, I may be stepping in it… but I was one of the people involved. What other info would be beneficial for you to have? Deepest regards, Zephi |
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Zephi, hope you are fine now and still stoked to get out on the Dike. |
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Nick Goldsmith wrote: Thanks, Nick. I am, still stoked on everything, including the dike - maybe when the first pitch is not as lean… |
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I have a question! Were you guys able to make it back down to the bike trail on your own or did the rescue team hike up the scree field to assist? What kind of injuries did you get? |
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Ira OMC wrote: Hey, I didn’t get injured, my partner did, but luckily no leg injuries, so he was able to hike down. I don’t feel comfortable listing what his injuries are because I’m not sure how he feels about disclosing that to the public yet. Thanks for your question, Ira. |
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did you all know the condition of the climb before you ventured up there? I ask because I got eyes on it earlier that week from the parking lot, using binoculars, and there was no ice on the first pitch. to us, it looked "out", but i don't have experience with the first pitch not having any ice on it... Curious what your thought process and beta was regarding conditions of the route itself beyond the weather conditions that day. |
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Zach L wrote: Hey Zach, We had heard that it was probably pretty lean/if not likely viable and may not have been done for a month or so. It didn't really look great from what I could see before the avalanche slid. I think our thought process was to check it out, knowing full well we may have to bail. |
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There's folks that climb it when it's mostly dry. Some may or may not bring a hammer and pins in those conditions. The folks climbing it in those conditions are certified bad asses. When the climb is actually in, the crux is dealing with the crowds. Climbing it when it's not in and covered in fresh snow is kind of like slamming your nipples in a car door. One of those things where you're not sure what is worse. Slamming the door or opening it again to get them nipples back... |
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I guess I’ll ask : were you fully aware of the weather that was forecast to come in? It would seem to me ( granted, I’m an “ old fart”) that the combination of conditions ( weather + ice, or lack thereof) would have been pretty “ badass”. Again, no judgement, just wondering. Going to the big ranges, ya gotta practice somewhere, sometime. |
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I checked the weather and saw that it was going to be cold and snowy. I think my expectations, based off of the forecast, were that the approach would be tedious, and I might be cold for many hours. I definitely was not thinking that I could be in an avalanche, but that also shows my ignorance to that terrain and those kinds of conditions. I was thinking about timing, gear, warmth, snacks, maybe having to bail if the first pitch was too thin, were 4 pairs of gloves going to be enough, etc. Clearly, I have a lot to learn, and I feel lucky to have the opportunity to learn from this experience with no consequences. I know others have not been so lucky. |