1 or 2 ice axes?

I'm getting into mountaineering and I plan on buying my first ice axe, I've decided to buy the petzl summit ice axe and I plan on climbing Mount Baker in the summer I also want to start doing more technical climbing peak. How many ice axes do you think I should get one or two?

Depending on the type and breadth of climbing you are doing you may end up with several.  I have a super light axe for skimo (BD raven ultra 50 cm) and more technical grivel 60 cm for technical mountaineering and then a pair of true technical tools for ice and will use a combo depending on the climb.  There are a tons of options out there so think about the types of routes you want to do and then do some research on the different types

Three shall be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, neither count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Five is right out.

Get something nice, light weight axe of a usable length for glacier and mountaineering, but for anything steep enough to need a belay for you will want a pair of modern tools.

I have 5, shalt I banish mine self , and shalt the banishment be hellish

14 is the number or you’re not trying 

Only one for now!

if I may suggest, get a Petzl Sum’tec instead of the Petzl Summit.

It’s hefty and does many jobs well.

Later, your second/third tool could be another Sum’tec, a lighter one like a Petzl Gully/Summit, or a full technical set like two Nomics.

On a side note, I once owned a petzl summit. I dropped it in a crevasse on Mount Baker by mistake. It was a great axe but I don’t miss it.

Fortunately I had a backup axe on my backpack.

I do Baker most of the time now with the Gulley.  I typically bring a Sum’tec as well for backup and occasionally appreciate it for when conditions are truly icy. 

Alex S wrote:

Three shall be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, neither count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Five is right out.

Get something nice, light weight axe of a usable length for glacier and mountaineering, but for anything steep enough to need a belay for you will want a pair of modern tools.

By modern tools do you mean something like a quark or with an offset handle like a nomic 

Dan Mydans wrote:

Depending on the type and breadth of climbing you are doing you may end up with several.  I have a super light axe for skimo (BD raven ultra 50 cm) and more technical grivel 60 cm for technical mountaineering and then a pair of true technical tools for ice and will use a combo depending on the climb.  There are a tons of options out there so think about the types of routes you want to do and then do some research on the different types

There seems to be a miss communication, but when I say 1 or 2 ice axes I mean a singular ice axe or a pair of ice axes. I'm curious if I should start out with just one singular ice axe or if I should spend the extra money and start out with a pair (2) ice axes?

@brandan, I mean something with a big curve, and might as well go for offset handles as well.

@conner, you're talking about 2 separate activities.  For glacier and lower angle mountaineering you need one mountaineering style axe.  For ice with roped belays involved you'll want a pair of technical tools.

The disciplines have evolved enough to not share tools since ice tools went leashless in the 90s.

For now, just get a general mountaineering ice axe. Any one with the appropriate length will do. Maybe get something with replaceable picks so you can tailor it to objectives. By spending some time doing routes you'll get an idea of any additional gear you might need down the road. 

One short axe for mountaineering. Use ski poles mostly. Then, when you are on a slightly steep route and wish you had two….you’ll know. Then pair a semi technical with your one short axe. 

Mark Pilate wrote:

14 is the number or you’re not trying 

Oops, I lied.  21 is the number. 

But if you’re looking for first few, a good start would be a long Mtn axe, a pair of Sum’Tecs or equivalent, and a whippet pole.   Combos of that can get you up anything anytime anywhere.  

Anything with less than multi pitch ice above WI/AI 3,  a single SumTec, Gully or Blue Ice offering with a whippet (if you’re bringing poles otherwise) is nice and ightweight.  

That's quite the collection! Either you like collecting old school stuff or you just never got rid of anything! :)

Victor Machtel wrote:

That's quite the collection! Either you like collecting old school stuff or you just never got rid of anything! :)

Lol, yep.  I never sell old gear.  I’ve given away 3 sets (of Axars, Black Prophets, and Cassins) a Mtn axe, and broken 3 over the years.   

Connor

It all depends on how you intend to progress on technical ice. The lower angle slopes can be climbed with just crampons and ski poles. When the terrain gets a bit steeper, 60 CM mountaineering  axe is fine. Above about 45-50 degrees ice slope, it helps to have two axes. One of them can be the mountaineering axe, the other a shorter (50-55 CM) technical tool. For steep to vertical ice, two short technical tools are required. I would start with a quality 60 cm axe (length will depends on your height too) and purchase two technical tools when you start climbing the steeper stuff. You will likely end up with three tools that can be interchanged depending on the objective.

I'm currently settled on six BTW. One 60cm ice axe for general mountaineering, one slightly shorter one for slightly more technical stuff, a pair of Quarks for technical alpine and ice, and a pair of old Quark Ergos for steeper ice. I don't get to use the Quark Ergos currently all that much so I don't see a reason to upgrade them to more modern ones but might do so down the road.