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Good beginner alpine routes in the PNW?

Original Post
Cayson M · · California · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 15

Will be spending the summer in Washington and wanna get on some stuff. I’ve done a decent amount of long ish routes in the Sierra on rock but don’t know much about snow or ice climbing yet. Looking to maybe get on forbidden peak and Rainier this summer. 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

Get a permit for the Mule Route on Mt. Adams go learn crampon footwork and self arresting. For Rainer you will want to learn about glacier travel and crevasse rescue.

Ben Flowers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 0

Eldorado and Sahale are both pretty mellow alpine routes with some glacial travel and share a basin with Forbidden

Sam Bedell · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 442

Looks like you already have some stuff on your to-dos and you can climb solid 5.10 trad? You won't find any real ice climbing in summer. Experience with snow, glaciers, choss and bushwhacking will be what you can expect. 

Allen makes a great point of making climbs about one new thing at a time. I think Forbidden and Rainier would be great venues to put it all together, but you could sub Baker for Rainier and a number of other peaks with technical rock, no easy way down, and a little glacier travel for Forbidden. 

I see Fisher Chimneys on your to-do, that one is great and a nice combo of actual big glaciers and some rock/scrambling.

Kelty Godby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 537

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/122064362/the-stumbling-stone

This descends on a glacier and the approach incorporates 1000ft of steep snow slopes. It might be further than you’re looking to drive, but it will get you away from crowds.

Cayson M · · California · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 15
Kelty Godby wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/122064362/the-stumbling-stone

This descends on a glacier and the approach incorporates 1000ft of steep snow slopes. It might be further than you’re looking to drive, but it will get you away from crowds.

That looks sick. I actually grew up in the area, always wanted to climb out there. 

Kelty Godby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 537
Cayson M wrote:

That looks sick. I actually grew up in the area, always wanted to climb out there. 

There are a few other summer rock routes on the formation that aren’t posted on MP. You can find them in the American Alpine Journal by searching A Peak.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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