Good beginner alpine routes in the PNW?
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Will be spending the summer in Washington and wanna get on some stuff. I’ve done a decent amount of long ish routes in the Sierra on rock but don’t know much about snow or ice climbing yet. Looking to maybe get on forbidden peak and Rainier this summer. |
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Get a permit for the Mule Route on Mt. Adams go learn crampon footwork and self arresting. For Rainer you will want to learn about glacier travel and crevasse rescue. |
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Eldorado and Sahale are both pretty mellow alpine routes with some glacial travel and share a basin with Forbidden |
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Looks like you already have some stuff on your to-dos and you can climb solid 5.10 trad? You won't find any real ice climbing in summer. Experience with snow, glaciers, choss and bushwhacking will be what you can expect. Allen makes a great point of making climbs about one new thing at a time. I think Forbidden and Rainier would be great venues to put it all together, but you could sub Baker for Rainier and a number of other peaks with technical rock, no easy way down, and a little glacier travel for Forbidden. I see Fisher Chimneys on your to-do, that one is great and a nice combo of actual big glaciers and some rock/scrambling. |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/route/122064362/the-stumbling-stone This descends on a glacier and the approach incorporates 1000ft of steep snow slopes. It might be further than you’re looking to drive, but it will get you away from crowds. |
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Kelty Godby wrote: That looks sick. I actually grew up in the area, always wanted to climb out there. |
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Cayson M wrote: There are a few other summer rock routes on the formation that aren’t posted on MP. You can find them in the American Alpine Journal by searching A Peak. |