Brand new rigid stem

Well folks, I bought what seems to be a first generation rigid stem that has never been placed. It's only wear is where the trigger wires hit the lobe. 

I originally bought this for use in an upcoming creek trip, but after seeing it's condition am left wondering if I should. What do y'all think it's worth? Let me know thoughts, I definitely don't want to destroy a pristine piece of history.

I also have another one with an og sling in worse condition 

Thanks!!

-matt

Not a first generation rigid stem, more like last generation rigid stem. Worth what you paid for it.

That looks like a 90s era Friend to me. I still have a bunch with the Gunks tie-offs. Horizontals (with said tie-off) is where they really shine.

Definitely use it.  Where those Friends fit, they're still the best camming units ever made.  Other sorts might be better in weird/small/horizontal/specialty placements, but in a splitter you can;t beat a Friend.

The oldest units had hex nuts on the ends of the axle.

Not 1st gen, but absolutely not the last. Last generation Forged Friends were anodized, had cam stops and spectra slings. Came out in 1997 and in 2000 you could still order them from Canada. 

Last generation Forged Friend

Use it, I still use my set. Maybe resling, but it's probably fine.

Frank, there were subsequent rigid Friends with size specific anodizing. 

Thanks guys! I wasn't sure if I should use the new one but I think now I will. I agree with you guys that rigid stems are the shit! I have no idea why they aren't still produced, especially if they were cheaper than the flexible units. Anyway, thanks again!!

Gratefully purchased from a member here. Magical to touch: I’m a better climber than a year ago. True talisman.

Gunkiemike wrote:

The oldest units had hex nuts on the ends of the axle.

I think the nut replaced the "circlip" on the oldest originals.

From "Who's your Friend?" in Mountain magazine September 1979:

"Early production model Friends had a problem with the spring-loaded circlips that fixed the cams to the axle shaft. Circlips were known to pop off the shaft at the wrong time, leaving the climber with a handful of spare parts, and mixed feelings of bewilderment and despair. The circlips were replaced in subsequent models by a permanently bonded jam nut."

Frank Stein wrote:

Last generation Forged Friend

Second to last generation. There were a few dark years when all friends, rigid or flexible, were red with a black stem regardless of size.

The big improvement over the previous models was that they had machined stops rather than the rolled pins. It meant they were full strength when open, if they didn’t fall out.

Since all prior friends were silver, with only the sling differing in color, it wasn’t a stretch to assume that users would still only look at the sling. Mostly we did, it was fine. That’s when Camalots started looking like a lot better option than Friends.

Once they changed their color scheme to somewhat approximate BD sizes, they also added anodized colors to match. They are great but still have enough sizes between BD sizes that it’s not completely uniform.

Between my wife and I, we’ve got probably 20-25 rigid friends, some pristine and some worked over. I’ll likely never place one again. So if anyone has a hard on for the rigid ones, HMU.

I think they originally came in 4 even sizes, when sold directly to valley rats out of Ray Jardine’s car. I heard that people would grind the teeth off to make half sizes. And now days, people are afraid to even engrave their initials on gear.

2nd gen friend, replaced in 97 by the coloured friends. 

First gen hard stems had nuts. Big nuts on 3 and 4. Half sizes came out about 82. The riveted axles over a washer was 85ish about the same time the tech friends came out. The riveteted axles were recalled and the button head screws were the solution. Late 80s hard stems have slightly different cams and are more narrow with the removal of spacer.

Matthew Hoff wrote:

 I agree with you guys that rigid stems are the shit! I have no idea why they aren't still produced, especially if they were cheaper than the flexible units.

You mean rigid stem Friends are shit.  They are ok and were great when that is all that was available but there really is no reason they should keep making them, They are heavier, walk easier, can't be made in micro sizes and the size range was very limited.  It would be like saying EB's should still be made, they were great in their time but I was sure glad when I traded them in for my first pair of Fires.  I still have my rigid stem friends but they are pretty much relegated for setting up top ropes now.  A cool piece of history but that's about it.  All hail the flex stem.

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

You mean rigid stem Friends are shit.  They are ok and were great when that is all that was available but there really is no reason they should keep making them, They are heavier, walk easier, can't be made in micro sizes and the size range was very limited.  It would be like saying EB's should still be made, they were great in their time but I was sure glad when I traded them in for my first pair of Fires.  I still have my rigid stem friends but they are pretty much relegated for setting up top ropes now.  A cool piece of history but that's about it.  All hail the flex stem.

The last generation anodized ones, with the milled lobes and tapered stem are actually quite light. Much lighter than 3rd and 4th gen Camalots. 

as I recall  a 2.5 friend and a Red Hugh Banner were both a great size in-between a red camalot and a gold camalot.   Does BD now have a half size between red and gold #1 and #2? 

The metolius green fits perfectly where the old WC 2.5 friends did. Similarly the metolius black fits between green and red, like an old WC 2.

Ben Zartman wrote:

Definitely use it.  Where those Friends fit, they're still the best camming units ever made.  Other sorts might be better in weird/small/horizontal/specialty placements, but in a splitter you can;t beat a Friend.

This is the dumbest old guy take I’ve read in a long time, perhaps ever. Who needs aliens and totems and z4s when you’ve got RIGID STEMS!

Jiggs Casey wrote:

This is the dumbest old guy take I’ve read in a long time, perhaps ever. Who needs aliens and totems and z4s when you’ve got RIGID STEMS!

No OK BOOMER???