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Easiest offwidths for learning chickenwings+armbars?

Original Post
Michael B · · The IE · Joined Oct 2023 · Points: 180

Couldn't get established on either Hobbit Hole V0 or Back to Basics 5.7. I need to do some work. I'll probably get back to finish Pac-Man at some point, but I would like some recommendations for more boulders or routes I can TRS on bolts. Routes like Arch Crack look approachable but are too tall to boulder and too traversy to TRS.

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 270

The bolts part of this makes it particularly tough. Is building gear anchors totally out of the question? 

Michael B · · The IE · Joined Oct 2023 · Points: 180
Cosmic Hotdog wrote:

The bolts part of this makes it particularly tough. Is building gear anchors totally out of the question? 

Sadly yes. I don't have gear. I could borrow some from a friend but I didn't exactly dazzle my instructors the last time I attempted building anchors.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

dolphin and duchess right (JTree) would be a good start. one will work your left side, the other will work your right side.

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 270

Slim, wouldn't he have to use at least 1 cam (#5 or #6) to redirect the rope for Dolphin? I was going to suggest that also but the Dolphin/Bird of Fire anchor is 10-15 ft to the right of the top of Dolphin's crack I think

Hieu L · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 0

Solo tower two crack to set anchor and climb trs the offwidth on the other side or solo big grunt 

jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 446
Cosmic Hotdog wrote:

Slim, wouldn't he have to use at least 1 cam (#5 or #6) to redirect the rope for Dolphin? I was going to suggest that also but the Dolphin/Bird of Fire anchor is 10-15 ft to the right of the top of Dolphin's crack I think

Dolphin has its own set of bolts, just no rings. (Unless they've been chopped, wouldn't be surprised for josh ... )

I'll agree with Hieu and double down on Big Grunt + Arch Crack recommendation. If things go sideways you can just hop out onto flat ground before proceeding higher, all good !

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 270
jt newgard wrote:

Dolphin has its own set of bolts, just no rings. (Unless they've been chopped, wouldn't be surprised for josh ... )

I'll agree with Hieu and double down on Big Grunt + Arch Crack recommendation. If things go sideways you can just hop out onto flat ground before proceeding higher, all good !

Right on, thanks JT. I've been on Bird of Fire recently but it's been a year or two since I did dolphin

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

yeah, if you are going to TRS much at Jtree it would be helpful to round up some gear. bolts are few and far between, and usually not in the best spots.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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