Bad Bolts in Las Vegas

Cameron Hygate wrote:

Left anchor bolt on P1 of “Sendimental” on the fringe is wiggling in its hole. 

Cameron, did you try tightening it? Or can you confirm if the nut is still tight but the bolt is wallowing in the hole? Either way I'll replace with glue-ins. Was just looking for helpful info regarding the situation.

A friend mentioned today that a bolt on the anchor at the top of Pitch 9 on Crimson Chrysalis is spinning in the hole. He couldn't remember if that anchor is 2 or 3 bolts, but he was clear that it was spinning in the hole and not simply a loose nut/hanger. He said the bolt wasn't pulling outwards.

Hello, the last bolt before the anchor on drilling miss daisy at Conundrum crag in Calico basin is loose. The nut for the hanger needs to be inspected. Also synapse collapse at cannabis crag has recently been rebolted but the quality of the job is quite poor and will not last. 

Found an improvised rebar anchor atop the Yin & Yang formation.  Will probably take a sledge or hefty mallet to remove.  Not a bolt, but a problem and eyesore that hopefully can be cleaned up. 

 

Total hack job. I'd like to think that wasn't done by a climber.

SenorDB wrote:

Total hack job. I'd like to think that wasn't done by a climber.

Agreed. Local ethic is to paint the rebar in desert tones to camouflage

Matt Kuehl wrote:

Found an improvised rebar anchor atop the Yin & Yang formation.  Will probably take a sledge or hefty mallet to remove.  Not a bolt, but a problem and eyesore that hopefully can be cleaned up. 

 

I know a guy.

Hey guys, don’t worry about that little rebar. I got it taken care of.
The anchor bolts up top are now chopped, too. I did not do those, but to whomever keeps putting them there, knock it off. I don’t necessarily hate them, but it’s not a good look to keep installing bolts that are sure to get chopped.

Haven't gone out there recently to verify this myself, but just to forward a report on California 12a from another user:

"would caution first 5 hangers are all spinners.. some bolts about 1cm out of the wall"

There are two bolts side-by-side before the crux bolt on "Synapse Collapse" at Cannabis crag.  Both are spinners and are wiggling in their holes.  They're PowerBolts/5 piece.

Third bolted anchor up the solar slab gulley.
Left bolt wiggles in the hole.

Upper right bolt has got some gap between the bolt and the wall though it seems tight.

Not a bolt but the pigtails on ‘straight to the point,’  ‘cactus hugger’ and perhaps others at cactus massacre are getting pretty worn. 

Straight to the point was much worse but I only managed to get a picture of cactus hugger. 

Edit 1 day after: I’ve been advised these were replaced yesterday. So quick, thanks B K! 

Fairly certain those rams horns got put on Straight To The Point Christmas day 2023 people must be top roping the hell out of it.

Most of the ramshorns at Cactus Massacre have already been replaced with Mussy hooks because they were in much worse shape than the one pictured above. Some were getting sharp edges. 

I donate annually to the ASCA and a little to SNCC.  Which organization is the best to make a donation that is specifically earmarked for Red Rock use?  Can I just donate to ASCA and tell Nate that it is for you, will that work?

phylp phylp wrote:

I donate annually to the ASCA and a little to SNCC.  Which organization is the best to make a donation that is specifically earmarked for Red Rock use?  Can I just donate to ASCA and tell Nate that it is for you, will that work?

Hey Phylp, thank you for all of your continued support for bolts and anchors in Red Rock! If you donate directly to the SNCC we guarantee those funds will go straight towards new hardware for the Red Rock area. We get the large majority of our hardware from the ASCA, but so do a ton of other LCOs so to keep it easier on them and more organized for us donating straight to the SNCC would be best! We also get more grant and funding opportunities based on our number of members so please ensure you are a member each year with your donation!

All you can eat on ginger buttress: P4 anchor is in poor condition. The Left rap ring is very loose. I’ve left a locker on the third bolt but the aforementioned bolt should be extracted. Whole thing wiggles

p3 is also poor, spinner on the left and there’s no third bolt for a redundancy like the above anchor mentioned.

Black Corridor - Bon Ez, steel anchor carabiners significantly worn.

Nora McNamara-Bordewick wrote:

hieroglyphic prophesy (promised land): crux bolt after the final resting jugs is wiggling in it's hole and sticking about a centimeter out of the wall. 8th bolt/7th perma i believe

Someone has replaced this bolt.

Camden wrote:

Black Corridor - Bon Ez, steel anchor carabiners significantly worn.

Thanks for the report. Please tell everyone you know not to top rope directly through the anchors. These are for lowering the last climber in the party.