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Suggestions for soloing around Moab

Original Post
Matt Gowie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 25

Hey folks, 

I'm looking for suggestions on good, easy solo routes around Moab. I've done two of the super easy like East Rib on Looking Glass and the West Fins scramble on Elephant Butte, but wondering if there are others that I should check out. I've solo'd up to 5.7 cracks elsewhere and looking for anything in that realm or lower that's around town. 

Appreciate any suggestions -- Thanks!

Adam Fleming · · AMGA Certified Rock Guide; SLC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 494

Soloing around Moab kinda sucks. There's not much with a top-out and walk-off. You can do some slabs around Neapolitan on Wall Street. There's also a walk-off for the Theatre at Take Out Beach, but I'm not sure the routes will be solid all the way to the top; the ground on top is covered with kitty litter and golf ball sized rocks. I've rapped in there to replace hardware but haven't been forced to free climb from the chains to the top.

Go out to the San Rafael Swell if you really want something that lends itself to soloing. Death by Chocolate or 1000 Feet of Fun.

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

Impish on Dock Rock in the Fishers, Mother Goose in the swell.

Bolting Karen · · La Sal, UT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 56

I've solo'd some of the theater routes and would not recommend, once you get above the chains its generally easy but pretty loose and puts you in a situation where you're not really in control of the outcome like you feel on the bottom of the cliff. Most of the soloing around here requires downclimbing the route or bringing a rope to rap which is less than ideal.

Matt Gowie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 25

Thanks folks -- Sounds like I need to check out the Swell! Put a few routes on my todo list, so appreciate the shares!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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