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What's everyone's take on Kailas clothing?

Original Post
Mitchell Wayne · · Buffalo, NY · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Specifically the 9a. Durability?

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

I have the 9a "winter", they are a slimmer fit, but still ok with my thunder thighs. Snug low in the calf, no need to roll them up to see feet on techy face, only for heel hooks. This is the fit of mediums. I'm 5'8", ~160lbs with a 21" thigh circumference. 

The "blue magic" pant with an elastic waist and drawstring fits quite a bit more relaxed.

Durability seems to be pretty decent. I've done a few offwidths and have not torn any holds yet. Fabric is mostly nylon. 

Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140

I have about 5 days of climbing to date in my pair of 9a pants.  They are the most comfortable climbing pants I have owned in 23 years of climbing.  Incredibly light & stretchy material and well cut design.  I also find them pretty stylish.

I cannot comment on durability yet, but the fabric is very thin (but looks like very good quality) so I am not expecting too much in that department... but time will tell.  My only gripe to date is the lack of any thigh pocket... the only pockets are covered by your harness when climbing.  I really like thigh pockets to keep topos etc for easy access while climbing, so this may limit my use of these pants on long routes I don't know well enough to climb without a topo.

Also, be advised that these pants are sized for the Chinese market!  They are VERY small.  I normally wear jeans in size 35x35 or so (skinny & tall), and I have the 9a in XXL (!) and it's a very good fit (relaxed but the elastic waist is exactly right).  I had to undo the hem to lengthen them by an inch to make it perfect.  So, I'd say the XXL is about a 35/36 waist by 34 inseam.  
I'd suggest sending them an email with the waist x length you are looking for and having them suggest the closest matching size.

Even with these drawbacks (lack of thigh pocket and -for me- having to undo the hem), I like them enough that I just ordered a second pair!

Marc-Olivier Chabot · · Gatineau, QC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 440

I have many 9a pants, one Blue Magic and 2 El Capt. I size up for the 9a. I'm 5'9, 160lbs and I wear usually M for all US-based company. For the 9a I'll take L. For Blue Magic I'll stay with M and it's great. For El Capt pants M is a tight fit. Most of my buyer did the same pattern as me: Size up the 9a, take the same size for Blue Magic and maybe size up the El Capt.

For good description and price see https://www.verticallstore.com/Rock_Pants/cat4546832_4237075.aspx

Mitchell Wayne · · Buffalo, NY · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0
Marc-Olivier Chabot wrote: I have many 9a pants, one Blue Magic and 2 El Capt. I size up for the 9a. I'm 5'9, 160lbs and I wear usually M for all US-based company. For the 9a I'll take L. For Blue Magic I'll stay with M and it's great. For El Capt pants M is a tight fit. Most of my buyer did the same pattern as me: Size up the 9a, take the same size for Blue Magic and maybe size up the El Capt.

For good description and price see https://www.verticallstore.com/Rock_Pants/cat4546832_4237075.aspx

Why size up on the 9a and not the others?

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Mitchell Wayne wrote:

Why size up on the 9a and not the others?

The cut is different, 9a is a much slimmer tapered fit than the blue magic. 

F Loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 808

Nice, I have wondered about their clothing. I have a 5 year old pair of Prana pants I wear daily, climb in frequently, alpine trips, hiking, etc. I bought a few other brands, even Mountian Hardwear which I love their gear, and they don't last nearly as long. Hell the most recent MH pants I bought have 3 holes in them from 1!! long climbing day with 0!! falls. Try out the prAna if you haven't. 

Mitchell Wayne · · Buffalo, NY · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0
Nick Drake wrote:

The cut is different, 9a is a much slimmer tapered fit than the blue magic. 

I'm 5'9" and 145 lbs. Medium then? Usually a 30x32 

Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140

Here's the 9a size guide from the Kailas website.  The length & waist info is correct for the XXL (which I have).

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Mitchell Wayne wrote:

I'm 5'9" and 145 lbs. Medium then? Usually a 30x32 

Yeah I think a medium 9a  will fit you fine, I'm 5'8" and a whopping 160 at the moment. Normally a 31x30 in most pants and on me the medium is snug, but not yoga pants tight. There's a pic on my instagram up thread in the yellow 9a winter pants in a medium. Other shots in the teal colored blue magic pants in a medium on instagram also. 

One thing I will note that I really like on the 9a, they have a perfect cut at the ankle. Not skin hugging tights, but no baggage. You can wear them rolled down and still spot techy footwork, no rolling up the cuff needed. 
Mitchell Wayne · · Buffalo, NY · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0
Eric and Lucie wrote: Here's the 9a size guide from the Kailas website.  The length & waist info is correct for the XXL (which I have).

Ive seen like 4 difference size charts for Kailas and they're all different. Ugh...

Marc-Olivier Chabot · · Gatineau, QC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 440
Mitchell Wayne wrote:

I'm 5'9" and 145 lbs. Medium then? Usually a 30x32 

For the 9a pants, if 30 is your waist, go definitively for a M. If your waist is 32 go for L. 
Marc-Olivier Chabot · · Gatineau, QC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 440
Mitchell Wayne wrote:

Ive seen like 4 difference size charts for Kailas and they're all different. Ugh...


I'm 5'9, 160lbs. The problem is there is a gap between pants models. I have all the 9a pants (winter, summer, short and more) in size L and the fit is the same. The exception is maybe the 9a jeans. I still take a Large but it's more skinny fit. Not necessarily the waist but legs and ankle.
El Captain Pro: M
Ridge Rock: M
Blue Magic (the old version with the large waistband): M
Dirtbag short: L
Niu A (L+): L
Niu A 3/4: L
Frozen Waterfall Extreme Ice Climbing: M but large fit also very well.
I have 2 more trekking pants not on kailasgear.com (what is on the website is 25% of the whole Kailas catalog): M

Most of the time I don't want loose fit especially when the fabric is 4-way stretch. If you want more relax loose fit you can maybe size up one more but waist could be too wide if the pants don't have any elastic waistband.

The rule for the size could be: size up when the pants have a full elastic waistband, like the 9a. For the others is half and half but if you don't want to take any chance, always size up.

https://www.verticallstore.com/Rock_Pants/cat4546832_4237075.aspx
joed · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 275

bought a pair of Kailas from a Canadian company and loved the look and fit....they were on sale, so I then bought 4 more pair....although I received many complements on how they looked, all of them began to come apart at the seams, and even shred away from the seams...they look and feel as if they would be rugged, but in truth they did not last long....I already threw away one pair that I had patched once at the crotch, but they shredded near the rear seam, as well as the knees...and the others are on their last legs after only a few months....cheaply made, although comfortable....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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