Carderock—worth stopping at if driving nearby?

Hey folks!

I’m taking a big ol’ road trip down from Boston to VA for a combination wedding/camping trip, and I was looking for reasonable climbing along the journey down to Shenandoah, either on boulders or solo TR on bolted or monolithic anchors. I love slab, I love crack.

I noticed that I’ll be driving very close to Carderock, which fits my needs, but I’ve seen some reports that it is busy, has poor climbing, and has a number of offputting regulars. Is this chunk of rock worth a stop, or should I just spend more time at SNP? I will be doing some climbing in the park (Little Stoney Man and Old Rag!), and I can always get my fill of slabby schist at Rumney on a day trip from home. Also open to other spots that could be worth checking out along the way!

It's really different rock, solo tr would be efficient off of trees,  bouldering eliminates is fun too, worth a weekday stop 

Been once.  Keep driving.

Oh man, I learned how to climb in the 90s at Carderock, I basically grew up there as a climber. I can say without hesitation that you should just drive by. Great Falls VA has slightly better rock quality, but still not really worth the stop.

Carderock is interesting for historicity mostly. It’s a 2 minute approach so if it doesn’t require a special trip, why not?

Thanks for all the quick responses! Sounds like I may step out if my route goes by it and I need a break (I do enjoy poking around a historically significant crag), but otherwise I’ll take a well deserved rest day before trying climbs at SNP. 

The approach is trivial, there are some very enjoyable routes, and the climbs lend themselves well to TR soloing with easy top & bottom access.  Definitely worth it imo, but agree a weekday is best since the place gets crazy busy on a nice fall weekend.

Great Falls - also very busy on weekends

From carderock you can access the Billy goat trail that goes up the river and has plenty of scrambling all around the great falls of the Potomac. Probably the best little trail in the DC area and the falls are impressive 

Weird rock, not my fav but I was in the area just like you and wanted to visit. I wouldn't go back for 2nds but if I had to do it all over again I'd still do that first visit. I mean, why not???

Its a cool place there on the Potomac.

I forgot about the Billy Goat Trail. If you do have a day, then Great Falls and the Billy Goat Trail are definitely worth checking out. The technical and scrambly nature make it interesting for a climber and probably more worthy than the mediocre climbing you may get at Carderock. The falls themselves are really impressive. Note that while you can access the trail from Carderock, the interesting section is farther north and easier accessed from Great Falls tavern. Although I believe accessing it from Carderock does not require paying the park fee?

M M wrote:

From carderock you can access the Billy goat trail that goes up the river and has plenty of scrambling all around the great falls of the Potomac. Probably the best little trail in the DC area and the falls are impressive 

As the guy below says the best part is accessed from Great Falls, but I agree that the trail is pretty awesome. We used to hike there often when I lived there growing up. Also, I would say that Carderock is at least worth a stop to walk around. It's a cool spot and worth checking out and possibly bouldering or TR soloing.

hifno wrote:

I forgot about the Billy Goat Trail. If you do have a day, then Great Falls and the Billy Goat Trail are definitely worth checking out. The technical and scrambly nature make it interesting for a climber and probably more worthy than the mediocre climbing you may get at Carderock. The falls themselves are really impressive. Note that while you can access the trail from Carderock, the interesting section is farther north and easier accessed from Great Falls tavern. Although I believe accessing it from Carderock does not require paying the park fee?

The most direct free access to the best part of the Billy Goat Trail (section A) is from the parking lot across from Old Anglers Inn.  Getting there from Carderock is a slog along the canal towpath. Section B is also somewhat fun and accessible from Old Anglers, but has been closed for a while due to erosion.  Section C is contiguous with Carderock and makes for a nice trail run if nothing else.

Carderock is the closest crag to me and I’d say keep on driving. 

If you love slab Buzzard Rocks is near the north end of Shenandoah and have great long slab routes with top access. 

I'll chime in with an opposite opinion, I learned to climb at carderock, moved to Colorado for climbing, and distance made the heart grow fonder so I now climb at carderock every time I go visit my folks.I will say that almost every climb under 5.10 at carderock is complete garbage, and most of the crack climbs don't climb very cracky. You really gotta treat it like a bouldering area and work the hard climbs. If coming to Shenandoah via 95, it would be like a 5 minute detour off the highway and a 2 minute approach. I assume OP has already taken their trip though.

Some highlight climbs at Carderock:

Triple A

The Flake (slab)

Vulgarian Wedge

The Dream

Sterling's Crack

Serenity Syndrome

There is no better place to realize the contrived absurdity of rock climbing than the “top-down” NPS site Carderock. The free flowing mighty Potomac river, giant Sycamore‘s and maples, the history of transportation, displaced native Powhatan, eliminate routes, with top rope rehearsal, ruthless beta maxing, eventual head pointing. Youths realizing the futility of planar micro shist early in life have serve their sensibilities later, in the greater ranges and taller cliffs of our planet.  Carderock a mandatory stop.