Bioavailable Proteins - Post a day

Todd Berlier wrote:

I saw a YouTube video of a guy that only eats bread, pea and soy protein powder and a multi vitamin. He climbs 5.13 trad and boulders V12!

But does he have the sallow, somewhat unhealthy look of a plant eater?

I really enjoyed my conversations with Marc-Andre Leclerc. I never got any negativity from his aura and enjoyed his genuine curiosity. Not every day you meet and interact with an individual with a light like that in their eyes.

I also admired his ability to to take his mental ability to his physical ability and limits of his skill. Surely no different than some chuffer on mountain project climbing that 5.7R route and commenting beta that is not that bad.

Miss that guy 

Hey guys, back from a trip! What'd I miss?

Best source of protein is from milk.   

Andy Shoemaker wrote:

It looks like you are sticking to a veggie/pescatarian focused routine- which I do as well, given that I'm capable of caring about my health and other things.  I also am on a budget so I'm always looking for responsible, quality AND economical nutrition.  Whole foods above any dogma.

Some things I eat regularly to add protein- 

Split pea soup- you can find the Amy's Organic on sale for $2/can.  I usually eat 2 cans in a serving, 380cal and 24g protein.  Plus a whole grain bread for another few grams of protein. Super easy lunch.

Lazy man's canned tuna salad - you can find line caught Wild Planet at Costco.  Sometimes for as low as $2.25/can on sale. 1 can with some veganaise, sriracha, TJs green goddess seasoning is like 250cal and 33g of protein. I add some brown rice cakes for another few grams of protein.  Another easy lunch (add a side salad)/snack.

My go to breakfast is 1/2cup of Bob's Red Mill steel cut oats (8g protein) and 2+ tbsp of nut butter (8+ g protein), a banana, 1/2cup of Oatly (3g protein) and 1/4cup salted hazelnuts (4g protein). Whole meal is less than $5 if you shop around.

We cook with Banza pasta at least once a week- usually fresh kale pesto from greens and herbs from our garden.  Banza is chickpea based and is about 20-25g of protein per serving depending on how American you portion is.  It's good cold as pasta salad.  Good with red sauce.  Good with just some olive oil and raw veg.

We rotate out dinner protein- tofu, tempeh, pumfu (pumpkin based tofu- so tasty, kinda $$), Costco salmon patties, fresh PNW salmon or steelhead, the occasional Beyond burger.  This is a pretty good variety of protein sources (soy, pumpkin, chickpea, pea, 2 or more types of fish) plus some probiotics from the tempeh.  My wife (who is a practicing nutritionist (CNS) with her MS in nutrition) doesn't do wheat for gut health (check out leaky gut), but I sometimes eat seitan and she regularly eats eggs, so we each have 6-7 protein sources we rotate through.

I try and stay away from soy protein isolate because there's a good amount of recent research about some negative impacts of regular consumption.

This is about as optimized we can manage given our current resources.  We prioritize the quality of the ingredients as much as our budget allows- shop at the local co-op from local farms, nearly 100% organic, grow as much as we can in Seattle's sometimes short growing season which is about half of our produce for 4-5 months/yr. More each year as I get better at gardening.  In an ideal world it would only be fish caught by the local fisheries, no canned fish or Costco salmon patties, just locally fresh or cured fish.  But we just can't afford $20/lb+ several days a week.

I have never tried pumfu but I’m interested in it. I see the brand foodies, is that what you get?

Li Hu wrote:

Best source of protein is from milk.   

Absolutely not. 

Connor Hale wrote:

I have never tried pumfu but I’m interested in it. I see the brand foodies, is that what you get?

Yeah we are able to buy the Foodies brand by the case at our local Co-op for a better price.  It's super tasty.  A little drier than tofu so we either press it for a short length of time and then marinate it for longer than we would tofu.  Or use it as like sausage meat that's more appetizing in a slightly more crumbly texture.  It's got a little more fat content than tofu and just in general a more savory, rich taste.  We don't mind the fat since we're both naturally lean (for now, check back in 10 yrs) and running a calorie deficit most days so we'd be adding EVOO anyway and just use less oil when cooking to get the similar fat content.  

It's also good unpressed, pan fried in 1/8" of avo oil and then covered in a sauce- we like a peanut butter/lime/tamari/ginger combo for example.  Super quick, by the time the brown rice is out of the cooker, the broccoli is steamed and the avocado sliced you have an easy 15 min of work, 30min total meal containing a whole grain, a cruci veg, quality protein and gut microbiome food (combo of soluble and insoluble fiber, aka prebiotoics) with somewhere between 30-40g of protein depending on your portion.  Pumpkin doesn't have a large ratio of Lysine so the avocado and PB are a good compliment to keep the amino acid profile more neutral.

Has anyone looked into the pure Amino Acid supplements......they are being advertised like crazy lately.

They claim to provide the essential AA's without adding calories to your diet.

Anyway....just curious on this.....

example article   cambridge.org/core/journals…

Essential Amino Acid supplements are certainly a tantalizing idea for muscle health and strength training. The study mentioned above is pretty long, so I just skimmed it, but the main message I got was: yes, they could be beneficial (in particular for older inactive folks), but more studies are needed. It sounds like EAA's could be a very valuable supplement for us older climbers trying to get stronger.

Brandt Allen wrote:

Essential Amino Acid supplements are certainly a tantalizing idea for muscle health and strength training. The study mentioned above is pretty long, so I just skimmed it, but the main message I got was: yes, they could be beneficial (in particular for older inactive folks), but more studies are needed. It sounds like EAA's could be a very valuable supplement for us older climbers try get stronger.

Makes perfect sense. The calories come from the bonds between AA with a byproduct of ammonia reducing work by the kidneys (if I'm remembering biochem correctly). I guess proving absorption is the crux.

John Rahhal wrote:

example article   cambridge.org/core/journals…

I mean that review paper only cites one study, and that study showed the supplements don’t do anything. That lack of evidence seems a lot more convincing than any amount of advertising. I wouldn’t spend money on them.

Unless I'm reading something wrong, there were 133 studies cited.

What I didn't see in the paper was advertising.

Possibly useful anecdote:

After days of increasing protein consumption to 0.8g per pound of bodyweight (60/40 mix of meat/plant sources),

The pain on palpation of my A2 and A4 pulley sprains reduced from a 7/10 to a 2/10

While maintaining the same training load. This was after they remained at 7/10 each for a month straight, also with the same training load but approximately half the protein intake.

Other possible contributing factor was aggressive trigger point massage on each pulley using a hard-tipped massage gun, three times a day for five minuted at a time.

Brandt Allen wrote:

Unless I'm reading something wrong, there were 133 studies cited.

What I didn't see in the paper was advertising.

Only one had data on the subject. The paper says so about half way down.

F r i t z wrote:

Possibly useful anecdote:

After days of increasing protein consumption to 0.8g per pound of bodyweight (60/40 mix of meat/plant sources),

The pain on palpation of my A2 and A4 pulley sprains reduced from a 7/10 to a 2/10

While maintaining the same training load. This was after they remained at 7/10 each for a month straight, also with the same training load but approximately half the protein intake.

Other possible contributing factor was aggressive trigger point massage on each pulley using a hard-tipped massage gun, three times a day for five minuted at a time.

Special human finds special diet that works FOR HIM.

Jump the ratio up to 90/10 and you’ll be at 0/10 real fast. Do that over years and wonder how you’ve been mini-moonboarding 4x a week but your fingers still haven’t exploded and actually feel good. Probably from the massage. ;)

Just make sure you’re replacing calories with the protein, not adding significant calories.

F r i t z wrote:

Other possible contributing factor was aggressive trigger point massage on each pulley using a hard-tipped massage gun, three times a day for five minuted at a time.

What kind of hard tipped massage gun are you using on your pulleys? Never thought about using one on my fingers

Cole Crawford wrote:

What kind of hard tipped massage gun are you using on your pulleys? Never thought about using one on my fingers

It's also handy for assessing pain more objectively in response to the massage gun intensity setting. Instead of saying "I feel like my A2 is hurting a 2/10 today," you can say "I can tolerate setting #6 today compared to setting #3 two days ago."

It came with a plethora of torture implements, but this is my favorite because it doesn't soften the blow and hits two fingers simultaneously.

F r i t z wrote:

It came with a plethora of torture implements...

Did it come with one of these attachments?  I think this one is made specifically for the fingers.  You wrap your entire hand around it and do all the fingers at once.

Todd Jenkins wrote:

Did it come with one of these attachments?  I think this one is made specifically for the fingers.  You wrap your entire hand around it and do all the fingers at once.

Eric Marx wrote:

Idk who Paul Saladino MD is but he's apparently a doctor so you should listen to him instead of me lol.

https://plantbasednews.org/lifestyle/health/carnivore-md-says-diet-negatively-impacted-health/