Rock/Crag Packs: Best UL and for rope attachment?

I am looking for a UL pack to use for rock climbing that has attachment points for a rope. Any recommendations would be appreciated.  I'm looking for under 400g, ~ 25 l capacity.  Bonus points for some way of optionally attaching skis. Some kind of easy access lid and/or outer pocket also a requirement. 

DETAILS OF MY EXPERIENCE

I did what everyone says you shouldn't do: I got a small pack that was a (non-extreme) "ultra-light" construction. (I think it's sylnylon), It is a Marmot Kompressor plus. A stupidly designed pack from an absolutely awful company (among the worst warrantee service in my opinion).  Almost every rock pack I've ever seen is super-heavy, and this is explicitly light construction, light-duty materials.  It has served me just fine (except for stupid design) for like 13 years.  So there! Yes, it's dying from lots of little abrasions.  Well, for 13 years I've carried  like a pound or two less than standard rock packs, and used this like every other weekend all year round. 370g, 20 l capacity. 

MORE DETAILS, and FOR DISCUSSION

I think helmets and rack have to go inside the pack - they flop and get caught on stuff.  I think it's absurd to make a pack big enough for a rope, that just makes it super-heavy. After many years of leaving long strands on the ends of the rope to tie the rope onto me under the armpits and over the pack, I have settled on putting the rope under the lid and strapping to the sides of the pack.  This works great, I really prefer this.  (I think I've seen brit packs that are made to make this work really well.)

THANKS THANKS THANKS for any suggestions.  

The Simond Sprint 20 is a pretty good pack, it's really light but the main fabric still does a good job, using it since a few years without problem. Otherwise its a minimal construction but still has a lot of things that are a requirement for me (gear loops, daisy chain, ice axe holder, outside/inside zip pocket) a lot of things are removable. One feature i really like is that it has some extra loops on the  side next to the backpanel which can be used to tie some cord horizontally (or use an alpine draw) to really cinch down the rope/other things. it weights 320-350g or something. 

If you want a really robust pack then the Blue Ice Wadi is another great pack, a but more minimal in features but really robust woven nylon main fabric with much higher denier. something grams. I used it, wanted to like but unfortunately i really need the full length daisy chain to be able to use it as the only daypack for both alpine and rock but for pure rock i would use this. its like 450-480 

Bel Aoros wrote:

The Simond Sprint 20 is a pretty good pack, it's really light but the main fabric still does a good job, using it since a few years without problem. Otherwise its a minimal construction but still has a lot of things that are a requirement for me (gear loops, daisy chain, ice axe holder, outside/inside zip pocket) a lot of things are removable. One feature i really like is that it has some extra loops on the  side next to the backpanel which can be used to tie some cord horizontally (or use an alpine draw) to really cinch down the rope/other things. it weights 320-350g or something. 

If you want a really robust pack then the Blue Ice Wadi is another great pack, a but more minimal in features but really robust woven nylon main fabric with much higher denier. something grams. I used it, wanted to like but unfortunately i really need the full length daisy chain to be able to use it as the only daypack for both alpine and rock but for pure rock i would use this. its like 450-480 

The Simond Sprint packs are some of the nicest I've seen in a while. Excellent choices with features and materials to make a light but durable pack at a great price. I wish we could get them in the U.S. more easily. 

OP- I've had good luck with the Blue Ice dragonfly packs (no relabled as Stache?) for what you are describing. 

Raide Research is coming out with a ul 22L in the coming months ...I love the 40L and its 900g(ski/climb)

IMO, don’t get an ultralight pack if you want to carry skis on it.  

I have a Blitz 20, which is just wee bit lighter than your 400g target, and it is absolutely not well suited for carrying heavy loads, like skis, 70m single ropes, or full double racks.

The Mutant 22 is the smallest and lightest pack I can think of that is well suited to both climbing and carrying skis.

Big B wrote:

Raide Research is coming out with a ul 22L in the coming months ...I love the 40L and its 900g(ski/climb)

Can't find anything about this.  Let us know when it comes out, thanks. 

-TPC

Bel Aoros wrote:

The Simond Sprint 20 is a pretty good pack, it's really light but the main fabric still does a good job, using it since a few years without problem. Otherwise its a minimal construction but still has a lot of things that are a requirement for me (gear loops, daisy chain, ice axe holder, outside/inside zip pocket) a lot of things are removable. One feature i really like is that it has some extra loops on the  side next to the backpanel which can be used to tie some cord horizontally (or use an alpine draw) to really cinch down the rope/other things. it weights 320-350g or something. 

If you want a really robust pack then the Blue Ice Wadi is another great pack, a but more minimal in features but really robust woven nylon main fabric with much higher denier. something grams. I used it, wanted to like but unfortunately i really need the full length daisy chain to be able to use it as the only daypack for both alpine and rock but for pure rock i would use this. its like 450-480 

Hello Bel Aoros:  Thanks so much for that. 

Simond Sprint 22 l really exists in the UK!  2 tool fasteners, top rope strap, nice pocket, real daisy chains!  Looks sweet, 340 g! decathlon.co.uk/p/mountaine…  (There seems to be two separate pics of people icompetently demonstrating carrying a rope, kind of a hoot, but kudos for practical pictures showing how to open/close it.) I officially declare this the best pack so far, and I might try to pick one up next time I'm other side of the pond.  

From everyone's pleasure, here are a few more packs and my comments from what I could see on the internet: 

Blue Ice (BI) packs- ***All blue ice have rope carry straps ***

Blue ice reach 20 l    395 g  rope straps; ???odd harness sysem that has no waist belt, looks OK maybe?  How do you pack it?  

BI dragonfly 26  460 g; 2 tool attachments ; JFC no daisy chain, where the F put crampons??? No info or pic for how to pack.

ccompare to: 

REI Flash 22    370 g ; 4 daisy loops on the bottom where they would be difficult but not impossible to use to cinch down a rope, two more higher in back need two more to be useful, no daisly loops on top. nice pockets.  Maybe one could rig a “Z” rope cinch?

The following packs were way way out of my weight range, some mentioned in other posts before this one: 

Osprey Mutant 22l     649.2 g - no way to attach rope, zipperd top difficult to overstuff; real daisy chains.

BI Yagi 25    676 ; has skis pocket and other pockets

BI CHiru 25       700 g; absurdly beefy waist strap

Raide 40l    1040 g; very very deluxe; compare to:

compare to Patagucci 40l    920g (Ascensionist) loops etc. everywhere you need them. 

FLAME ON: My main comment is, as it was since I first laid eyes on a pack, “Pack designers really need to take their heads out of their asses and realize that it is probably less than 40 g to put little daisy loops on all corners of the pack and top lid. With just those, you can do just about anything with a pack (secure a rope, helmet, crampons, etc.) WTF is the problem there?  Flame off. 

-TPC

Hi! If you like the Simond Sprint 22 you should check out the Mountain Hardwear UL20. I liked it so much I bought two just in case it gets discontinued. With an added custom sized sheet of ridge rest foam pad in the back sleeve and a heavy duty bungee cord zig zagged on each side it's 363 grams on my scale. 

Mike J wrote:

Hi! If you like the Simond Sprint 22 you should check out the Mountain Hardwear UL20. I liked it so much I bought two just in case it gets discontinued. With an added custom sized sheet of ridge rest foam pad in the back sleeve and a heavy duty bungee cord zig zagged on each side it's 363 grams on my scale. 

Hey thanks for that...   Here is a comparison video between the MH20l and the Mystery Ranch 22l which says the Ranch is much better youtube.com/watch?v=qhYg8pw….  Checking up on the specs...

But MR has THREE 22 l packs: 

In-and-out       408 g         Note: Only fits 2 l water pack; side cinches, proper daisy chains both sides; no waist strap.

Catalyst           ???           Weird zipper loading, apparently no loops/straps at all. 

Scree               963 g!!!!    various zippers, could be a rope strap on top, can't tell. Many lash points. 

So, the In-and-out looks very interesting, but I can't really tell how it carries a rope.  I will certainly check out the mountain hardwear.  Thanks for that. 

-TPC

Yep, but the MR pack is a 100grams heavier. Although you have to add the side straps/cord on the MH, to carry a rope, so maybe 60-70 grams heavier. That's basically the bigger lid and the sternum strap buckles..   It's a balance act. Good luck in finding YOUR holy grail!

Funny that the guy considered a shallower pocket a bonus, cause he could see his stuff easier.. To each their own.

And the double haul loops on the MH is a good thing imo. When/if you hang it below you in a chimney it's nice to have redundant clip in points and it makes it hang straighter.

Osprey Mutant 22l     649.2 g - no way to attach rope, zipperd top difficult to overstuff; real daisy chains.

This is incorrect.  The Mutant 22 has a rope attachment / internal compression strap that is under the lid until you pull it out through the hydration hole.  Osprey doesn’t show it in their marketing photos or video for the current version of the pack, but it is there.