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Route Recommendations Red Rocks

Original Post
Sam Gaskins · · Raleigh · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Hello friends,

Girlfriend and I will be climbing in Red Rock in early July, so it will be hot as can be. Looking for recommendations for somewhat shady routes, at varying times of the day. Preferably nothing above above 5.10, and the closer to 5.10 it is, the more well protected it is would be better.

We are already planning on Dark Shadows, and I would really like to climb Sour Mash (since the 5.10 pitches are bolted), but I don't know if it is possible to rap from with a single 70 meter rope, if anyone knows please tell me.

TLDR
Routes that are shaded either morning or afternoon, well protected if close to 5.10 (anything 5.6 and below protection is much less important to me), and can be rappelled with a single 70 meter rope.

Thank you for your time

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
Sam Gaskins wrote:

I would really like to climb Sour Mash (since the 5.10 pitches are bolted), but I don't know if it is possible to rap from with a single 70 meter rope, if anyone knows please tell me.

TLDR
Routes that are shaded either morning or afternoon, well protected if close to 5.10 (anything 5.6 and below protection is much less important to me), and can be rappelled with a single 70 meter rope.

Thank you for your time

Sour Mash required double 60m ropes the last time I climbed it.

There are many routes on Whiskey Peak and Black Velvet no more difficult than 5.10.  Another well shaded wall is Frigid Air Buttress which has three 5.9 routes worth doing:  Burlesque, Middle Earth and its namesake

On Dark Shadows Wall, Chasing Shadows is actually more interesting and at a similar grade.  You could climb half a dozen routes on that wall close to that grade.

Good luck with your trip.

Andrew Yasso · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 215

lol Dow still linking to summit post. I'm almost happy some things never change...

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

Birthday party to honeycomb chimney variation on magic mountain, or community pillar.

Some hot climbing tips: take 5 liters of water, yes 5. A kool tie around the neck helps reduce head throbbing and keeps you cool. Soak a cotton shirt in water and keep it in a gallon zip lock in your pack for the hike out. Have cold drinks in a cooler in the car for when you get back at the end of the day. 

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137

The Fringe is down pretty low but it’s not a very long approach and is northish facing. Well bolted routes, many in your range.

The Comedy areas at Potosi are higher up than much of RR, NW facing and also a pretty short approach. If you get a really early start the hot part later is all down hill. Sameness to the routes but plenty of them. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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