Yosemite's First Via Ferratta?

Andrew Rice wrote:

I agree with you that it isn't climbers' rock, it's the public's rock. But of all the places I can think of that a Via Ferrata would be amazing ( and I think they're cool), Yosemite and particularly Yosemite Valley is one of the least apt locations.

The Half Dome cables are an utter shit show most of the time. Have you ever been on Angels Landing in Zion? It's Via Ferrata-ish and it's an utter shit show all the time. Both of those are literally choked with people and the definition of "loved to death." The most appropriate "Via Ferrata" line I can imagine in Yosemite would be Matthes Crest (ducking!) but that would be a travesty. And the hordes would have a hard time with the approach.

Someone like you should actually create a commercial Via Ferrata somewhere within easy striking distance of Yosemite. I'm sure there's some nice lines on private land or at least just NFS land that you could set one and guide people with positive results. 

This is a really good argument. I don't have any desire to become the via ferrata guy, but I'd certainly be stoked to go up one that someone put up near the valley. 

I guess not wanting a via ferrata on rock that wouldn't make for a good climb just seems like climbers shitting on a different discipline, but what a shit show of a line it would likely become does seem like a valid argument against putting up such a thing in the valley itself. 

Cheers

Ricky Harline wrote:

seems like climbers shitting on a different discipline

For me (and how the park service and other govt. agencies analyze things in an Environmental Impact Report) it's a question of negative impacts vs. benefit and what's appropriate in particular setting. Plus there's liability and cost issues. A national park is not going to allow a sanctioned via ferrata with guide services needed like you see in Tahoe and Mammoth. There would be an uproar among many other user groups about inappropriate use of wilderness. And if someone puts an unsanctioned via ferrata in (e.g. skippy and his east ledges via ferrata) there's a good chance the park service takes note and removes it (if climbers don't beat them to it). Too much liability, impact, and risk of unprepared people getting hurt on it. 

1. Leaning Tower

2. Slide Mountain 

3. Cougar Rock 

Ricky Harline wrote:

I guess not wanting a via ferrata on rock that wouldn't make for a good climb just seems like climbers shitting on a different discipline, but what a shit show of a line it would likely become does seem like a valid argument against putting up such a thing in the valley itself. 

Cheers

Gatekeeping and false senses of superiority are longstanding climbing community values....

Maybe someone could set one up on one of those more remote granite domes to the S. of Yosemite at the end of a long dirt road. 

philip bone wrote:

1. Leaning Tower

2. Slide Mountain 

3. Cougar Rock 

LT’s proximity to the waterfall might muffle the sound of a power drill, so maybe that’s the best option? Also, maybe the installer would be able to use the fixed lines that have been hanging on LT for weeks (months?) at this point. Park service prolly won’t mind a bit…

Not the West face silly! Continue up the diagonal ledge (ancient route) to Bridalviel creek. Then voila to the summit. Let the games begin. The Iron way.

This is what that whole wilderness installation thing was about. We send out letters saying we won’t over do it then talk about how the waterfall will muffle the noise of our illegal drills? We deserve the ban.

lol, when some random Yose climber folks approached me about creating the first Via Ferratta in Yosemite I had no idea it would be so easy to get all the government trolls to pop off at the thought their perfectly controlled envriornment getting expanded by a new user group - to be clear, I Erik Sloan, have never ascended a Via Ferratta but I'm laughing at how serious everyone is taking this - I mean, when Tom Frost and Royall Robbins, who I hung ten with, were coming here no one climbed half the cliffs - why should someone tell the future climbers what they can, or can not climb? ....Tom Frost the minute he met me said Erik you care about the climbs of Yosemite you do what you think is best you are replacing all the bolts whatever you decide we will say it is perfect......

Erik Sloan wrote:

lol, when some random Yose climber folks approached me about creating the first Via Ferratta in Yosemite I had no idea it would be so easy to get all the government trolls to pop off at the thought their perfectly controlled envriornment getting expanded by a new user group - to be clear, I Erik Sloan, have never ascended a Via Ferratta but I'm laughing at how serious everyone is taking this - I mean, when Tom Frost and Royall Robbins, who I hung ten with, were coming here no one climbed half the cliffs - why should someone tell the future climbers what they can, or can not climb? ....Tom Frost the minute he met me said Erik you care about the climbs of Yosemite you do what you think is best you are replacing all the bolts whatever you decide we will say it is perfect......

right,  Royall is famous for loving all the new bolts.

Maybe your mic cut out early, and you missed - " we will say it is a perfect abomination."

Erik Sloan wrote:

 I'm laughing at how serious everyone is taking this -

Like I said because of your history, adding chicken bolts and convenience anchors, I wouldn't be surprised if you actually put in a ferratta.

 ....Tom Frost the minute he met me said Erik you care about the climbs of Yosemite you do what you think is best you are replacing all the bolts whatever you decide we will say it is perfect......

Bull shit. Tom and Royal we're very much in line with keeping climbs the way the FA did them as much as possible.

I appreciate your passion for Yosemite and the work you do to replace existing hardware and write guides, I just wish you trended more in line with what Royal, Tom, and what the majority of the community believes. Instead of trying to dumb things down and make them more accessible leave the challenges in place, because the challenge is a huge part of why we climb.

But my iphone13.5 says #viaferrata is perfect for my #lifestyle and I am #vanlyfe .

Telluride has a via ferrata that I've heard is really cool. Telluride is no Yosemite Valley but it is pretty touristed. I'd be curious to hear from anyone who lives there if it's been a shit show or not.

w00t!1

Andrew Rice wrote:

Telluride has a via ferrata that I've heard is really cool. Telluride is no Yosemite Valley but it is pretty touristed. I'd be curious to hear from anyone who lives there if it's been a shit show or not.

Palisades Tahoe has one too. I thought it would be fun to try, but I asked at their booth in the village and it's $260 per person. Ouch. I'll climb instead.

MFW considering the prospect of a via ferrata in the Valley:

...

...

Or perhaps??? A Hetch Hetchy via ferrata replete with serene boat ride across the "lake":

I would tentatively posit the Hetch Hetchy wilderness has already been somewhat impacted by a certain fixed installation, establishing precedence as such, however being that as it may, a few more bolts may still fall totally beyond the pale. Permit denied.

zip line for the finish

Glowering wrote:

Palisades Tahoe has one too. I thought it would be fun to try, but I asked at their booth in the village and it's $260 per person. Ouch. I'll climb instead.

Shee-it! That's pricey. The Telluride one is free for anyone who wants to get on it. 

Glowering wrote:

Palisades Tahoe has one too. I thought it would be fun to try, but I asked at their booth in the village and it's $260 per person. Ouch. I'll climb instead.

lol .. I said the exact same thing. I was like ooh this sounds fun for a half day hike/casual climb, but then I found out the price, and was like no thanks Ill just go climbing at the pass. (For anyone thats interested there is a cool hike at PT called Shirley Creek, you hike 5 miles up Shirley Canyon to a alpine lake, then continue up to the resort where you can ride the tram down for free).

For those of you on this thread unfamiliar with NPS Planning and the law around the Wilderness Act it would be instructive to read the summary of the 2012 Half Dome Trail Stewardship Plan which instituted the permit system for the cables.

https://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?projectID=29443

The Wilderness Act of 1964 describes wilderness as embodying the following four qualities: "untrammeled," "undeveloped," "natural," and "outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation."

Take note of the last quality and consider how all people have benefited from that to their own ability.

Incidentally, I have heard that the NPS is refreshing their plan for Half Dome Trail to further reduce impacts to the Wilderness (a legal term) and improve the permitting and visitor experience and safety.  I guarantee you as part of the EIR for that they seriously considered an alternatives to remove the cables entirely as they are generally inconsistent with the Wilderness Act, though have been begrudgingly grandfathered as a prior and historic element, and are likely to stay due to their popularity.  As everything above the valley floor is considered Wilderness, I expect the NPS would be highly disapproving of a via ferratta installation anywhere in its jurisdiction.  Even this thread may ruffle some feathers among the NPS planning and administration crew, some of whom are surely climbers and likely read this forum.

Not trying to be a scold, but some reality and context may be helpful among all the prognostication, punditry, and pugnacious in this thread.

Erik, please stick to what you do very well, developing great 5th class routes. No one wants to see a revered member of the community go down an Anderson/Snyder arc.