Bad Bolts in Las Vegas

Trash Garbage wrote:

Not a bad BOLT but IMO as bad if not worse.

Last perma draw of Yack Crack at the gallery is super worn out and sharp. I did not notice while climbing so I just whipped on it from the anchor and core shot my brand new 70M rope and it literally burned through 20' of it!!

Crazy stuff never had that happen, my rope is now completely fu«ked but I think this is an easy and simple fix. 

Happy new year y'all and keep up the great work!!

One of the best reasons to always carry a crescent wrench out cragging: to tighten down bolts or to remove suspect hardware such as this. Thanks for the report.

Topless Twins (Brass Wall): welded rings on both anchor hangars are substantially grooved. By Harry Beauregard :)

2nd bolt on Killer Joe at the Hamlet wall. Bolt itself is wiggling not just the hanger. When we pulled on the hanger the whole bolt flexed.  Looks like a 5 piece bolt. 

2nd bolt on Killer Joe at the Hamlet wall. Bolt itself is wiggling not just the hanger. When we pulled on the hanger the whole bolt flexed.  Looks like a 5 piece bolt. 

Last Bolt of Ferrous Wheel at Iron Man Wall needs to be replaced. Bolt is still tight and sturdy for now but you can see the sleeve. Weathering around the Bolt is getting worse over time and use. 

This hold needs to be glued. On Call of duty, blue diamond cave. I was pulling on it to the next hold and made a loud cracking sound. Its moving now. People shouldn't get on it.

The Three Kingdoms (Civilization Crag - Calico Hills): One of the mussy hook gates is broken and doesn't close. Could probably be fixed with some pliers.

??

Safe enough to lower off of still, but should probably be fixed.

hieroglyphic prophesy (promised land): crux bolt after the final resting jugs is wiggling in it's hole and sticking about a centimeter out of the wall. 8th bolt/7th perma i believe

That Goode Dude Climb, Gallery. Right side of right chain is quite sharp due to wear. Rubbing it against the grain grazed my finger and lost some skin. If it’s not yet replaced, make sure you lower off the right side of the anchor.

Third bolt (under the bulge, right after no hands rest on left) of Wuhan 400 at BD Cave has a bent and stuck open quicklink holding the draw on. I plan to go up and replace the quicklink, but until then, beware making those moves up to the big roof!

Dave G wrote:

The Three Kingdoms (Civilization Crag - Calico Hills): One of the mussy hook gates is broken and doesn't close. Could probably be fixed with some pliers.

??

Safe enough to lower off of still, but should probably be fixed.

This has been fixed. New Mussy's installed courtesy of the SNCC & ASCA. Please don't top-rope or lower through the fixed anchors if someone else is climbing it, just the last person.

Cory Statt wrote:

Third bolt (under the bulge, right after no hands rest on left) of Wuhan 400 at BD Cave has a bent and stuck open quicklink holding the draw on. I plan to go up and replace the quicklink, but until then, beware making those moves up to the big roof!

Quick link replaced a few weeks ago! Forgot to post this, but thank you to the SNCC for supplying this necessary hardware yet again!

Right bolt at the third pitch anchor of chasing shadows (first pitch above large ledge at the top of the second pitch of Dark Shadows) is extremely suspect. Looks as though the bolt is rusting out and the massive hanger is spinning quite loosely on it. 

Mt Charleston / crag:  Blue Sky Bluff / route:  Flying Oehlers / Loose, spinning bolt at the top anchor

There's a number of comments about the bolts on p3 of Edge of the Sun pulling out (in addition to being old/bad).

Quieter days at sonar wall in mt Charleston, 2nd bolt spins

David Weisberg wrote:

That Goode Dude Climb, Gallery. Right side of right chain is quite sharp due to wear. Rubbing it against the grain grazed my finger and lost some skin. If it’s not yet replaced, make sure you lower off the right side of the anchor.

Both of these mussys have been replaced with new stainless hardware. They were both deeply grooved and sharp. 

Top anchors of Money are a bit of a mess. I was able to tighten the left 5 piece with a wrench but the "good" one on the right wouldn't get tight. The newer bolts are also too close to the old bolt holes. All that is currently there for cleaning is one quick-link on the left bolt and a useless cold shut on the bad bolt on the right.

Didn't check every route at the crag but a number would also benefit from lower-off hardware, e.g. Insecure Delusions and Hang Ten.

The bottom sleeve bolt on the 3rd from the top rappel station on Crimson Chrysalis is starting to pull out of the rock. Photo attached below.

Also, there’s a single older 1/4” bolt with an SMC hanger still on one of the even pitches (maybe p4?).

Left anchor bolt on P1 of “Sendimental” on the fringe is wiggling in its hole.