I was knocking out some Bulgarian split squats when suddenly something made that wet-construction-paper-ripping noise and now it hurts to exist and also to move my leg across my midline. Range of motion is intact but strength is definitely affected. I can climb on it as long as I avoid cranky drop knees on my right side.
Obviously I am going to see a PT about this, but I’m also wondering what people with similar injuries have done as part of their rehab regimens. Specifically looking to preserve mobility and ROM while slowly building strength. Thanks!
Adam bloc
·
May 2, 2023
·
San Golderino, Calirado
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 3,140
My PT suggested a lot of glute banded exercises and single leg stability stuff. It was pretty boring at first but eventually graduated to single leg squats, dead lifts and Copenhagen planks; these I still do somewhat regularly for upkeep. For more fun glute work, there’s lots of climber specific hip mobility routines and yoga on YouTube these days.
I was returning to normal harder climbing around 2 months in, and have never had an issues if I keep my PT up. Oddly enough I tried to return to climbing easy and it was more painful than harder climbing! Easy trad slabbing and stemming were brutal, but straight-on steep limestone sport routes and “board style” boulders I didn’t feel a thing!
I have a torn meniscus that I got a few months ago, and I've been resting and icing it as much as possible. It's my understanding that in the first few weeks after tearing any sort of soft tissue that's the most important thing to get your inflammation down. I've also been using a blood flow stimulation medical device, which has really been a lifesaver for me. It took like, 75% of my pain away within the first three weeks, and before I was barely able to walk. At the gym I can now climb for about 45 minutes without pain. I haven't pushed it past that because I know it's still healing and I don't want to undo my progress. My physical therapist said that whatever I'm doing, it's building strength quickly. I'd recommend doing some research on it to see if it can help you. It's called a BFST. I feel like one of the things that made the biggest difference for me was being even more gentle with myself than I thought I needed to be and resting like crazy. I tried to only walk when it was absolutely necessary for the first few weeks after I got the injury - mostly because I couldn't walk without pain anyway lol - and I think it made a difference in how quickly I started to heal.
I'm not sure if any of this will help but I hope you find something that does.