Extending a Top Rope Anchor Over a Ledge

Today I rigged up a top rope anchor at a crag where the top out is a flat dirt area (no rock pro from above) with a few strong trees. To build the anchor I used my static line from two of them so the masterpoint was just below the edge. Even though it was a smooth section of rock I was surprised by the amount of abrasion on the rope, just a few climbs and it was significantly more fuzzy. (I was planning on just working some climbs that had TR bolts so I didn't think to bring a carpet square or anything)

Any other ways to deal with this? Is it common to have the static rope just reach above the ledge, and extend it with a sling to have the wear on that? If I found a placement below the ledge could I have a cam hold the masterpoint ~ an inch higher, just so it takes the load instead of the static line going over the edge? 

Just looking for any advice on what you would do.

Thanks, 

Chandler

If abrasion is a concern, don't use webbing. A little fuzziness on your static rope anchor shouldn't be much concern. But you were there, so you decide if it's too much.

There are commercial rope protectors you can buy. Some people use a piece of garden hose to protect against the edge. And your carpet idea would work to pad the edge.

Also, it might seem counterintuitive, but you could put the masterpoint closer to the tree, above the edge. Might feel a little more rope drag, but it may not be a problem to your rope since it's moving over the (smooth) edge. That way, the wear is not on one spot in your rope.

You can use a sacrificial sling to take the wear. Leave some slack in the static line, but keep it in the system. Alpine Savvy has a post about it, but I couldn't find it so I drew my own image to illustrate.

https://i.postimg.cc/dtxghHjh/PENUP-20230312-173700.png

An old trick was to cut short sections of one inch tubular webbing and slide them over the rope like a sheath. Then after setting the anchor, slide the webbing sheaths into position where the rope runs against the rock.

As the rope moves slightly, the outer surface of the webbing sort of sticks to the rock, and your rope slides against the smooth inner surface of the webbing. Won’t do much to resist an edge that is actually sharp enough to cut a nylon static rope (garden hose or other thick durable layer better for that). But it will do a lot to prevent the fuzzies. And adds very little weight or bulk. We used to just leave 2-3 on the anchor rope at all times. 

It is a bit sobering how quickly you can trash a rope over an edge, isn't it.

I have also heard about the "slide tubular webbing over the rope" trick, sounds good.

In the end though, it's as simple as "put something sacrificial in between the rope and the rock". Carpet, old backpack, folded tarpaulin, beach towel.

Adam Fleming wrote:

You can use a sacrificial sling to take the wear. Leave some slack in the static line, but keep it in the system. Alpine Savvy has a post about it, but I couldn't find it so I drew my own image to illustrate.

https://i.postimg.cc/dtxghHjh/PENUP-20230312-173700.png

Thats better than what I was thinking of, thanks. Definitely seems like the easiest solution if I forgot to bring something to put in the middle.

+1 to suggestions for sacrificial sling like the drawing and for rope protectors of all sorts.

Do not run your climbing rope over the edge. If the static rope is getting worn, you do not want your single, non-redundant, dynamic rope to start taking that wear instead. Master point should always be down and over the edge. 

Jake woo wrote:

 Master point should always be down and over the edge. 

Unless the rope is fixed for toprope solo. Then you want it fixed ABOVE the climb (to avoid potentially sky-high fall factor on falls topping out). Edges padded as needed, of course.

Gunkiemike wrote:

Unless the rope is fixed for toprope solo. Then you want it fixed ABOVE the climb (to avoid potentially sky-high fall factor on falls topping out). Edges padded as needed, of course.

Hmm, I haven't ever top rope soloed, but I rapped down the last pitch on a multi pitch to grab some gear I bailed from, and ascend the rope again. Instinctively I made the anchor just like a top rope but this makes sense. Any other considerations, or is it really that simple. Thinking about it, seems like the best possible set-up for this would just be tying my static line to a nice huge tree, putting some padding on the edge, and leaving it like that.

If you find yourself without specific padding, a backpack works great. Tie a prussik with a sling to the rope and clip it to your bag so your bag stays in place. Slide the prusik into place so the bag sits on the edge. 

I've often used carpet remnants for edge padding.  Cut a piece about 18 inches square and add grommets to a couple of the corners.  You can now secure your carpet behind the master point of your achor with cord or a sling.