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Creek/Moab route help - thin hands

Original Post
Aiden Nova · · Denver · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Anybody know any good routes that are just straight up #1s and tight 2s with little meandering? Getting my wife into crack and her perfect hands are solid 1s. Wider .75s are good too.

I was thinking Scarface might be good but she might have trouble with the start and angling nature of it. 

Ry C · · Pacific Northwest · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Top Sirlon (slightly overhanging the whole way in a corner, not great to learn to crack climb imo)

Excuse Station (straight-in)

Soul Fire (straight in)

Pente (straight-in; haven’t done but heard it’s amazing for small handed folk)

Coyne Crack (after the miserable start crux, it’s splitter straight-in #1s). She’ll be able to get jams in earlier than larger handed folk and enjoy it.

Country (straight-in: short and easy- half #1s, half #2s)

My hands are perfect #1s and I kind of hated Scarface. The bottom half crux is tight, greasy .75s and the top half was too wide to be comfortable (perfect #2s). 

justino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 319

Battle of the bulge wall offers a few good thin hands cracks.
battle, cave route, black corner, 3 strikes

Donnelly canyon also has chocolate corner for a shorter outing.

Selfish wall has the Ooze, hand solo (golds)

Sacred Cow has fatted calf

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 668

Short and Stupid at Pistol Whipped is a good "first lead" type of thin hands crack

Ron Cloudwalker · · Iron County · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

I don't see why you need to free a crack with perfectly good aid anchors. Free climbing is for runouts.

Aiden Nova · · Denver · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

All great recs, thx gentlemen! 

Emilio Sosa · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 46

There’s a thin hands route at Habitado just left of where the trail reaches the wall, with a tree at its base. I don’t believe it’s on MP, but it is in the Kelley guide. It’s splitter number 1s, and slightly left leaning 

Martin Genova · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 96
Emilio Sosa wrote:

There’s a thin hands route at Habitado just left of where the trail reaches the wall, with a tree at its base. I don’t believe it’s on MP, but it is in the Kelley guide. It’s splitter number 1s, and slightly left leaning 

It's the first Unnamed 5.10 to the left of Step Inside my Hyundai

Potter Wonderland · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 2,577

Cave Route is a killer tight hands route.

Way Rambo works as tight hands for me

I agree w/ top sirloin, basically 1s whole ttime...

If I remember correctly cobweb splitter has tight hands and meandering 

Owl crack is tight hands with a killer 2s finish

Tons of options though yo... just go to a cliff there will be a tight hands route around

Valerie Paulson · · Louisville, CO · Joined May 2018 · Points: 20

I'm also a lady with #1 hands! At Scarface, Spam would be a great first lead for someone with smaller hands- it's #1s and some .75s but with some additional ledgy feet. At Battle of the Bulge, the unnamed climb directly to the right of railroad tracks is another great similar one with #1s and some additional features for feet. I love soul fire! Top sirloin and and Excuse Station are also good, though longer for sure. I'd also recommend Pop Quiz (Brown on Butter) at Scarface.

Scarface honestly felt challenging to me because the 2s section is rattly for my hand size and goes on for a while, so if she has #1 hands it might feel insecure for her too. Battle of the Bulge is also just a little too tight with all those .75s to be a great intro. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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