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Getting the two locking carabiners for a top rope anchor at the master point to be even?

Original Post
Orion Belt · · New Jersey · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 76

Do the two carabiners need to sit at the exact same level so that the climbing rope runs over both at the same height, and one isn't offset and gets worn down more? If so, is there a trick to it besides being finicky as to your two knots on each leg for redundancy? Would the two carabiners being offset create a steeper angle for the climbing rope, and wear the rope and carabiner down faster? 

Andy Forquer · · Emeryville, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 5

Something like a “quad anchor” will self equalize, however if youre doing something like top roping off of quickdraws, then ideally you make the two quickdraws level.

One way to do this is to clip one draw to a bolt, and then if needed further down the chain for the other. It all depends on the situation, orientation of the bolts etc.

i recc getting a locker draw as well if TRing off quickdraws, but if youre just doing 1 lead, 1 follow, then regular quickdraws is fine.

Rasputin NLN · · fuckin Hawaii · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

It doesn't matter. 

I some times use two lockers with a third, non-locker (usually a booty boner) that's smaller than the lockers, so the beat up wiregate takes the wear. 

I think three opposed ovals make the best top rope. If you do a lot of top roping, get a pair of metolius steel lockers. They won't wear out as quick as aluminum.

Pete S · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 223

top rope: 2 steel lockers.  SUPER GOOD ENOUGH.  No, doesn’t need to be perfectly balanced.  Plus, your rope will stay cleaner..no aluminum.

Wren Cooperrider · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 385

Gotta agree about the steel lockers, they'll last forever and don't make your rope as dirty. But to answer the original question, I'm not sure it matters so much, as every time you set up a top rope they'll probably be in a different orientation so it should even out as you go. And if you use the steelies, it will matter even less.

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Not what you asked but if you tie a BHK instead of two eights, the issue is moot.

(Especially) since this is a beginner's forum:

  • I disagree with the comment/suggestion above that a single locker is "perfectly safe" or that two non-lockers would be "perfectly bomber".   There are situations (e.g. leavers for emergency rappel) where those options could be acceptable, but not (IMO) as a matter of routine for top-roping.   Knowing the difference requires non-beginner judgment.
  • If you use a third, slightly smaller carabiner to take bulk of the wear (as suggested by Rasputin NLN above) it usually helps to have it sandwiched between the other two, resulting in a nice radius for the rope to run over.
Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
Rasputin NLN wrote:

It doesn't matter. 

I some times use two lockers with a third, non-locker (usually a booty boner) that's smaller than the lockers, so the beat up wiregate takes the wear….

Never insert your booty boner into ANY anchor system.

However…Trying to wear out that smaller booty biner is actually unnecessarily wearing your expensive rope.   It’s not so much about safety/redundancy at the top, but three even identical biners gives a nice radius to save more climbs/ less wear and tear on your rope…..likely the most expensive and critical component of gear you have.  

Edit:  just read MBK last bullet.   Could see see how a properly sized smaller biner in the middle could be just as good.   Depends on size differences.   Would be interesting to test some scenarios 

Would totally agree though that 3 steel ovals is about ideal for dedicated toproping.

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43

For TRing, I really like the Edelrid Bulletproof lockers. They are lighter than full steel carabiners and have steel inserts that the rope runs over. Really nice to have clean hands and a clean rope at the end of the day!

Rasputin NLN · · fuckin Hawaii · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0
Mark Pilate wrote:

Never insert your booty boner into ANY anchor system.

However…Trying to wear out that smaller booty biner is actually unnecessarily wearing your expensive rope.   It’s not so much about safety/redundancy at the top, but three even identical biners gives a nice radius to save more climbs/ less wear and tear on your rope…..likely the most expensive and critical component of gear you have.  

Edit:  just read MBK last bullet.   Could see see how a properly sized smaller biner in the middle could be just as good.   Depends on size differences.   Would be interesting to test some scenarios 

Would totally agree though that 3 steel ovals is about ideal for dedicated toproping.

It's mostly b/c I don't wanna wear out my old round-stock Petzl Williams.  Usually thought it's just a couple draws or whatever's on the rack. I don't really "go out top roping"; if so I'd have some dedicated stuff.

And don't tell me where to put my booty boner!!!

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

Two reversed and opposed non locking aluminum ovals. Been using this for decades and have never worn one out. 

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252
Glowering wrote:

Two reversed and opposed non locking aluminum ovals. Been using this for decades and have never worn one out. 

Then you definitely haven’t climbed enough. At the least you must not live anywhere near sand.

I wear out at least one or two carabiners per year plus at least one ATC. Furthermore, I’ve now worn out my first GriGri and had to replace that too.

Stuff definitely wears down if you use it enough. 

Mr Pizza · · Marion, IL · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

I use two of the metolius steel auto lockers for top rope. Cheap enough, not super heavy, and steel. 

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
Mark Pilate wrote:

Never insert your booty boner into ANY anchor system.

Unless your anchor system is a super hot lady and willing. 

Rasputin NLN · · fuckin Hawaii · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

At the rate things are going I'd take any moist hole anchor system that would consensually accept my booty boner. Sorry for the outrageous typo I hope it's brightened someone's day lol

Adam Gallimore · · Greensboro · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 410
Isaiah aka Zay Foulks wrote:

Cant wait for the arguments about THIS one.

My 2c: youre fine. Not ideal, but itll work. 

I wouldnt worry about the wear and tear.

Think of taking a whipper, more force. One non locking biner.

Top rope forces? On a locker? Its all good. Having that second locker, even if slightly offset, is a nice back up.

Rope wear on the biner? Gonna happen so slow that - provided you work for a living - you'll have made tens of thousands of dollars by the time that things wears down to a point that it needs replacing. 

Ive top roped off a single locking biner plenty of times. As long as the biner is free hanging and not going to rub or pry over anything its perfectly safe.

Also, let it be known that 2 non locking biners, opposite and opposed, is perfectly bomber. 

Now everyone fight.

I'd just follow this post's examples. A single locker on a quad is bomber; the same applies for opposite opposed non lockers. You can use two lockers to be extra safe, but one is good enough.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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