Old school climbing movies?

This one is fookin CLASSIC!

This one is in my top 3 favorite climbing movies ever

Another Chouinard flick

YOUTUBE!

I saw a 4 or 5 episode documentary on the history of Scottish climbing, Annapurna, the Hard Way, tons of Alps climbing without the shitty music and dumbass commentary on tvmountain (love that channel), the old Eiger movie, other Bonnington movie, all the Piolet d'Or nominee trailers, longer interviews with people like Mick Fowler. YouTube has everything.

abandon moderation wrote:

What I found really odd is that they use a modern looking belay plate (looks like an ATC) in one rappelling scene, but on lead in steep/technical terrain they're still using hip belays.

Seems like they had invented modern belay plates at the time, but didn't like to use it for lead belaying? That, or the film is just cut up to make it look that way.

Yeah, there's been a lot of editing going on - even the hiking scenes are out of order - and I'm not sure really where they're even camping for the day! 

Many of the climbing scenes have been hammed up like the rockfall scene is totally fabricated, so I bet the hip belays were done to be a little extra. The bivvying on a single small nut is just ridiculous. I don't even think even all the climbing scenes were on the diamond, as the ground seemed to get awfully close in one scene, and covered in beautiful tundra. That pendulum swing was all cheese. And the lead fall looked fucking painful - ugh! 

Roger seems to have been cast as the villain - not only did he shower rock fall, he dropped the water at the bivvy, his ass was in his partner's face in the hammock, he gave that hard catch - and he took all the good pitches! Given that he had been climbing the Diamond for a decade, I'm pretty sure he knew which way to go without a pendulum, as well as not needing to bivvy 3 pitches up. But that's show business!

Good shots from within I could only think of being the Black Dagger chimney though. Really great shots from the aircraft of the east face - some of the best I've ever seen really.

For the film tech they had, they did a pretty great job. I couldn't imagine the rigging being all that easy. Greg Lowe is credited on the film.  

Would be fun to hear from Roger his experience in this filming, if he can remember (given the number of times he's completed a Diamond route). Although he also says he never summited Longs during his Diamond routes, so maybe even THAT shot is complete schlock! 

Anyways, I loved it.

I wish I could remember the name of this old school video I saw on YouTube… It was frickin nuts! Nothing crazy difficult but the gear or lack of was boggling for the difficulty of the route. It starts of with these two dudes in wool sweaters riding a motorcycle to the crag. They have a hemp rope, no gear, and no climbing shoes. I swear, he takes off his boots and puts converse hi-tops on! Ties the rope around his waist and starts the climb. His gear is tiny rocks chocked into the crack. I didn't watch it all and wish I would've saved it for later. If anyone knows this little reel Id love to know more about it.

So I’m not sure what you’re looking for but I have a small dvd library of older campy, corny ( think cliffhanger) films. Several are based on hemp rope type mountaineering which I find interesting. All available on Amazon.

1. The Mountain,  1956. Spencer Tracy, Robert Wagner. Climbing sequences by Gaston Rubuffat.

2.  Third Man on th e Mountain,  1959. Disney, (corny but fun). James MacArthur. Climbing by Rubuffat. Think hob nail boots and alpenstock.

3. K2,  1991. Michael Biehn. A little more realistic.

4. Scream of Stone.  1991. A Maurice Herzegovina film loosely based on the Cerro Torre first ascent controversy. Also starring Donald Sutherland. Filmed (controversially) on location.

Honorable mention goes to The North Face. A more recent dubbed film on a 1936 attempt on Eiger north face 

I found best of the west on yt once.

Kevin Suarte wrote: I wish I could remember the name of this old school video I saw on YouTube… It was frickin nuts! Nothing crazy difficult but the gear or lack of was boggling for the difficulty of the route. It starts of with these two dudes in wool sweaters riding a motorcycle to the crag. They have a hemp rope, no gear, and no climbing shoes. I swear, he takes off his boots and puts converse hi-tops on! Ties the rope around his waist and starts the climb. His gear is tiny rocks chocked into the crack. I didn't watch it all and wish I would've saved it for later. If anyone knows this little reel Id love to know more about it

Whillans died in a drunken sleep less than a year after that video was shot.

Kevin Suarte wrote: I wish I could remember the name of this old school video I saw on YouTube… It was frickin nuts! Nothing crazy difficult but the gear or lack of was boggling for the difficulty of the route. It starts of with these two dudes in wool sweaters riding a motorcycle to the crag. They have a hemp rope, no gear, and no climbing shoes. I swear, he takes off his boots and puts converse hi-tops on! Ties the rope around his waist and starts the climb. His gear is tiny rocks chocked into the crack. I didn't watch it all and wish I would've saved it for later. If anyone knows this little reel Id love to know more about it.

I suspect you are trolling but given your recent join date maybe not.  It might behoove you to learn exactly who those “two dudes in wool sweaters “ are

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Enjoy. If anyone knows of this in digital, do holler.
https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/on-ice-1995

"Vertical Frontier" on Amazon is pretty cool. Older documentary though. 

The Eiger Sanction. Shows some of the hi-lights of Clint’s climbing career. 

FrankPS wrote:

This thing is a classic, its goes from Stoney Point to Tahquitz and San Antonio Falls and probably a few other spots.  Also most likely the first recorded account of BASE jumping lol.