Recommended Routes in Croatia (Dalmatia)

Hey fellas, I'm headed to croatia for a week or so, and I'm looking for some recommended sport routes and easy multipitch sport routes you guys could recommend.  I'll be in the region around Split and Omis, as well as 2 days in Paklenica.  For singlepitch, I'm looking for the best routes from 11c-12b, and for multipitch im looking to not go harder than 10b/c.   

I've got the guidebook and I've loved looking through it, but there's definitely no route recommendations, and I'd love some tips so I can spend my time on the most fun in the grades.  Any other recommendations for climbing in the region would be great!

Putting aside that I don’t consider 10 b/c to be “easy”, for multi-pitch in Croatia you can’t pass up Anica Kuk in Paklenica. It is the most impressive, most iconic peak in the range, with routes to match, approaching  1000ft. for the longest routes, with a quite easy approach and straightforward walking descent. While the route that we did, Mosaraski (9/10a?), is easier that your desired range, it was still a good route ( but for a short bit of loose rock in the middle), but it’s near neighbor Velebitaski is supposed to be a classic and right in your target range.

When we were there, over a decade ago, we needed some gear to supplement the very well spaced bolts, but it wouldn’t surprise me if the climbs were now more well-bolted—or you are likely bolder than we were. I’m sure that you can get more up-to-date information on the bolting situation with a bit of on-line ‘digging’.

On the way to Anica Kuk, starting just past the parking lot, you go through the narrow gorge called Klanci, which is the location of a very dense collection of mostly single-pitch sport routes on either side, directly above the wide cobble-stoned trail, which gives you a choice of sun or shade depending on the conditions ( don’t know when you will be going, but it gets hot that far south—Anika is in the shade for much of the day).

I have not climbed elsewhere in the country, so can’t give you any further recommendations. One other thing, though, the grades, at least in Paklenica, very much tend to be on the stiff side, at least a letter grade, often more, off of the norm in most other parts if Europe.

It is a fascinating country. Enjoy your visit.

There are a lot of great single pitch sport routes in that range very close in to the parking lot in Paklenica.  Best thing to do is pop into the Dinko cafe or climbing shop - the locals are very friendly and happy to share knowledge.  At Dinko you might find the owners son - a great climber and human. I climbed with him a handful of days and he knows the park very well.  The season really opens up with the festival/comp in early May (tho prob not happening with Covid).  Before that the park can be very quiet.

Beyond that, if you head over to Hvar to climb at Cliffbase you would not be unhappy you did.  Not sure what the weather there now - I was there in May and it was too hot to climb during the peak of the day. Around Spit there are a bunch of smaller crags all along the road.  The guidebook is probably your best friend there - there are a batch of local climbers but I don't think there is a "scene" so much.  There are a bunch of scattered (but great) crags up north but it's a bit of a trek from Split.