Are climbing shoes ruining my toes?

I noticed the distal phalanges of a few of my toes are drifting/crooked/sideways, particularly the distal phalanx of my big toe.  

I suspect that climbing shoes are contributing to this condition by creating a muscle/tendon/ligament imbalance in my foot.  The structure of the shoe allows me to pull hard with some muscles while acting as a crutch for other muscles.  If I curl my foot like it is in a climbing shoe, the toes are aligned with gravity.

Is anybody familiar with this condition?  I'm going to try to correct it by stretching the strong side and strengthening the weak side.  I'll also try to climb unshod more often - I think it will help a great deal for the toes to be loaded symmetrically along the knuckle via toe crimping.

I know its not the right season out East but when the weather is warmer, trying hiking barefoot a lot more often, on more kinds of terrain and for longer distances. Your feet and toes will thank you.

But I have no idea if it would help your condition, of course.

I also don't know if this will help but maybe you could try wearing yoga toes and shin strengthening exercises

Do your shoes have an asymmetrical cut to allow room for your big toe being longer than your second toe?  It took me forever to find a good shoe that takes into a account have a big toe that is longer than the next ones by a lot.  I found that Sportiva's shapes just don't work for me but Evolv shoes are shaped just right for my foot shape.  

For the last year or so, I've been wearing Altra Lone Peak 5's as my everyday walking around shoe. Little support, very bendy, and a super-wide toe box. They feel really weird at first. Then over time, your body begins to re-program itself, and your toes splay out naturally. Really helps with having weird climbing toes! 

What is your street shoe size and what size climbing shoe are you trying to cram your foot into?

Cherokee, I agree with this approach.  However, I do wear zero-drop shoes and I think that may be exacerbating the lateral drift.

Jinny, I've been wrapping a bandana between my toes.  It feels therapeutic, especially to stretch with the spacer. 

Eric, that's a great idea.  You inspired me to try on some old shoes and I found a huge difference in the way force is applied through the toe.  In my 5.10 stonelands I can feel the force through the inside of my foot (which is the side of the toe I need to strengthen).  With my scarpa vapors I can barely feel that force. 

Doug, I've used altras, but now I'm using xero.  I'm on the zero drop train, but I think it can be harder on your toes and I'm probably not stretching and conditioning my body properly.

Marc, just 8.5 shoes in street and climbing shoes, on the wider side.

If you want that civilized caveman look instead of barefoot, they are goofy as hell but you can't beat the Vibram Fivefingers for strengthening your feet. Definitely takes some getting used to, it's way different than even the roomiest zero drop shoes. I think hiking/exercising in them consistently has been very beneficial for me in building/maintaining foot strength and alignment, and I think it helps with general stability/balance also.  

Are these being worn while tying your knotstrosities?

100%. The traditional wisdom of "buy tight climbing shoes" is terrible. Buy climbing shoes that fit well. Let's be honest if you aren't climbing at an elite level do you really need to have your toes smashed? 

M Wolf wrote:

If you want that civilized caveman look instead of barefoot, they are goofy as hell but you can't beat the Vibram Fivefingers for strengthening your feet. Definitely takes some getting used to, it's way different than even the roomiest zero drop shoes. I think hiking/exercising in them consistently has been very beneficial for me in building/maintaining foot strength and alignment, and I think it helps with general stability/balance also.  

I will definitely consider this, thanks for the suggestion

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/climbing-shoes-is-pain-insane

i shore wrote:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/climbing-shoes-is-pain-insane

Excellent article, thanks for sharing.  I was thinking about how they mention transverse arch issues.  Transverse arch collapse might be part of my problem, evidenced by a callous underneath that arch (implying that part touches the ground maybe more than it should.  I think longitudinal arch is a problem for me too.  I'm working on it, trying to engage my arches and putting force through the tip of my big toes when I walk rather than rolling off the side.  We'll see if it improves. 

Eric Moss wrote:

Excellent article, thanks for sharing.  I was thinking about how they mention transverse arch issues.  Transverse arch collapse might be part of my problem, evidenced by a callous underneath that arch (implying that part touches the ground maybe more than it should.  I think longitudinal arch is a problem for me too.  I'm working on it, trying to engage my arches and putting force through the tip of my big toes when I walk rather than rolling off the side.  We'll see if it improves. 

Maybe see a podiatrist instead of self-diagnosis?

Marc801 C wrote:

Maybe see a podiatrist instead of self-diagnosis?

My experience with doctors is they don't really know or care about performance.  As long as you're not in pain, they kick you to the curb.  I had an orthopedist tell me to just stop climbing forever because of my elbow pain.  Then I did research and solved the problem myself.  So for now at least, I'm on my own, but I thank you all for your input.  Besides, there might be podiatrists or orthopedists on this board who can easily recommend a solution based on the post, so I figure it's worth pursuing.

Eric Moss wrote:

My experience with doctors is they don't really know or care about performance.  As long as you're not in pain, they kick you to the curb.

Find better doctors? Perhaps it has something to do with where we live, but here in SLC, all the doctors I've dealt with ski/climb/bike/run/hike/backpack/et al or they have a serious understanding of patients who do. For example, my wife's orthopedist who replaced both her knees is Eric Heiden. My podiatrist is in the same practice.