Best pack for multi pitch.

Yoda Jedi Knight wrote:

I’m guessing you have the BI squirrel 22? I see they make a 32 and maybe another size. Thanks for the description 

i bought it on sale from CampSaver or some such......its was around $50 and its a small size pack......just a bit bigger than one of those more embellished hydration packs.....so i think it must be the smaller model.

Edit:  just went and looked more extensively on the web.  I had no idea this company has so many models.  I believe the one i have is a Squirrel 12......twelve liter volume.

Hey, here's another model design i recall considering, the DMM Zenith.  I think i actually bought one of these but returned it because i think it was larger than i wanted.  Still, i think this is a well-thought-out design, particularly the tapering of the pack body to help keep it clear of the waist/harness area and a low profile while on your back.  

https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/climbing-packs/dmm/zenith

I'm with the clip it to your harness crowd. And I suggest if you lead everything you can let your follower carry a pack.

I have the 20L Cilogear Worksack and it’s held up really well for many years, some abrasion from getting hauled up but still totally functional and very minimal.  A climbing partner of mine has the Tufa Mochilla mentioned upthread and I really like that pack as well, would probably pick up one of those if I need another someday.

I've gone through a bunch and currently have 

-Mammut neon light 12 liter- a really well made, small pack that is really comfortable and has enough room most days

-Outdoor research multipitch pack- bought on sale for $25 and is great at that price, I added a thicker piece of foam than what came in it. I really like this pack despite not having a waist strap. 

-BD creek 20- basically a little haul bag with straps and is going to last a long time but has a small flap of stiff fabric that gouges a mole on my back, have to cover with tape, also no spot for hydration bladder or tube, but I sew, so that is fixed. It's hot as hell in the summer. 

-REI flash 18-  actually a good pick if it wasn't such thin material and if you can find it on sale for $20. 

I have a feeling that one day I'll own a petzl bug and that it will replace all these packs. Kinda regret not trying it first. The outdoor research pack goes on sale a lot and is good at that price point. I most likely bought all of these on sale except the BD, which was pro dealed. I don't know that I'd pay full price for any of them, honestly. Maybe the mammut, which feels like it will also last a long time. 

Thanks for the replies!!
Checking out Cilo and MH packs now!

revisiting the pack manufacturer Blue Ice that was referenced earlier in this thread......i found this coverage of one of their products that is relevant to this topic.  The reviewer give this model glowing marks.

https://www.climbing.com/gear/field-tested-review-blue-ice-reach-8l-pack/?fbclid=IwAR3em8l7ql2ZfnA6fOeIKZhHdzIh2budeupUOH5TSvVssmgprX-8RBakCjA

I was in Target a couple years back, and for no reason walked through their “camping” section. I ended up buying a very inexpensive, super light, minimalist small pack. Some goofy faux brand, like Sierra Adventure or something. It’s been awesome and the perfect size. 

I’ve even had people comment, “cool daypack, where did you get it?”

Sometimes you get lucky by going a little unconventional.

Tufu Mochilla. It's fantastic. 

How have packs like the Black Diamond Distance 15 and Mammut Tron Nordwand 15 worked out for people? I like the idea and comfort of the running pack style straps close to the body while having enough space for approach shoes, 1L of water, first aid, food, jacket - typical multi-pitch items. I have used BD Blitz 12, REI Flash 15, and BD Speed 22 in the past, but none have been comfortable enough to forget you're wearing. 

M Rox wrote:

I use the distance 15 and love it. The running style works much better with a harness and I like having pockets on the shoulder straps. 

Cool, thanks!

James W wrote: Pack vs harness vs tag and haul vs tank up and go naked - best to learn all the above and do what’s best, every climb is a little different. Those suggesting 1 best way - likely don’t push any dimensions of difficulty.

This. 

One thing to be careful of when using a pack is the snowball affect. .ie I’ve got a pack so I’ll just throw his in too. Or I can bring 3 liters of water cause I’ve got a pack when you really only need 2. All the time I’ll check a partners pack and it’s got crap left in it they don’t need. 

For something with chimneys hanging a pack below you or hauling it can be key. Or for comfort or bringing a real lunch you don’t want crushed or summit beers.

I try not to bring a pack, but will if it makes sense for the climb.

M Rox wrote:

The running style works much better with a harness and I like having pockets on the shoulder straps. 

The problem with running packs of any capacity is that they are fragile and can’t handle the abrasion of chimneys and hauling.  If I need a pack at all, it seems near certain there will be a chimney somewhere or a pitch hard enough that it needs to be hauled at least for a section.  Even taking a running pack off and clipping it to a belay and rummaging through it - against abrasive rock - is enough to destroy one rather quickly.

I like the BD Speed series. The smallest one is good for a rack, rope, water, and a small fleece or rain shell, while the larger ones are good for alpine or for multi day backpacking if you pack carefully.

I’m pretty firmly in team no-pack for multipitching anything where it’s not absolutely necessary. If one is required, it’s definitely one pack for the rope team.

Most people bring way too much shit. Easiest way to avoid doing that is not giving yourself the space. If you’re carrying a double rack and accoutrements, a pair of approach shoes on your harness shouldn’t be a big deal.

As far as water and food go, I’m a bit of a camel so YMMV, but if the climb is less than a full day, dispense with as much of it as possible. If you’re getting back to the car with water in your bottle or snacks in your pack, you brought too much.

All that said, I have an old Black Diamond RPM 28 that’s been a decent pack for many years. The Bullets are okay, I find they fit a bit weird but used one ice climbing for years. It can fit a puffy, some gloves, and your headlamp/inreach kit.

I bought one of the BD Blitz packs (the one that fits ice tools) and it kinda sucks to be honest. It’s flimsy, the sternum strap buckle broke, the cinching closure on the top blew out, and it has many holes from very little use.

I recently got a Simond pack for ice climbing, now that we’re getting into the habit of bringing avalanche kits with us. It’s decent, but has a bunch of extraneous shit I need to cut off. 

Another model for consideration 

Passed someone in the airport sporting one.....looked like a nice, discreet design for climbing.  Excellent price 

https://www.mammut.com/us/en/products/2510-02490/neon-light

I tend to be hard on packs and have shredded many over the years (Cilo Gear, Black Diamond, Mt Hardware, etc.).  I've been using an Arc'teryx Alpha for the past few years for alpine and desert rock, and it's more abrasion resistant than most climbing packs. They don't make one that small, however.  I also have a BD Distance 15L pack that I've used almost every week and have yet to trash on the sandstone.  The Imlay packs I've seen tend to be heavy and look really dated.

I'm in the pack camp and always carry my own personal gear whether leading or not.  I hate extra crap hanging off my harness, plus it's good for alpine training.

Here's another nice looking model.....that claims..."is designed especially for women keeping in mind the woman´s anatomy.".....

https://www.trekkinn.com/outdoor-mountain/salewa-mtn-trainer-22l-backpack/137455109/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=10243458&country=us&gclid=CjwKCAiAgbiQBhAHEiwAuQ6Bkn08kZ95aT0iyVdjpgttLBQhJI1gFm4dv25clPNn8jRZN7UP8S9iOxoCHFsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

BD Bullet 16L pack is the best on multipitch. lightweight,  rugged

It is just enough to stuff water, jacket,  food and headlamp.

All the other stuff are on the harness

The mammut nordwand 18 is slick, if you can find it.

Packs designed for runners are nice because of you do have to climb a chimney, they're not too bulky.

I use a pack for Backcountry rock, especially long approaches and off-trail navigation but skip the pack for lower commitment/bolted routes or easy approaches. Weird how dogmatic people get about their gear usage.