She says on her site, "I am a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist specializing in Paleo and Primal nutrition [...] I received my nutrition certificate from Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment and Healing".
Just googled the place a whole load of fuck all shows up.
"High Gravity Day, meet Low Protein Day." "Dude, do you know how many IPAs you gotta drink to get 20g of protein! I'm a climber, not a training-obsessed alcoholic."
Protein is an important part of an athlete's diet and protein supplements are one of the few supplements actually proven to be effective. A lot of people likely aren't eating enough protein and would greatly benefit by eating more.
Also, worrying about eating too much protein and bulking up is silliness. Body building is actually far more difficult than many think. You're not going to get huge by accident.
-Consuming protein in more than 1 meal is advantageous, but the difference in protein synthesis across a day for 2, 4, 6, 50 meals is marginal and doesn't matter. Net amount does. -Examine.com is a great place to read a summary of current protein intake studies. Unless you are in a calorie deficit the 1.6-1.8g/kg number is a good starting point. -The 120g max figure only comes from measured levels of specific chemicals in the blood stream. So if that's your assessment of effective then cool. It's not mine, so I put more stock into the studies around differences in body composition and performance in athletes during normal caloric intake and caloric deficits. -Vegetarian sources have lower level of many amino acids so it is not often recommended to consume slightly more protein if one does not consume any meat, fish, milk, or egg products. A lacto-ovo or pescatarian eater will be fine.
Jer
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Apr 4, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2015
· Points: 26
I've been watching the Human Performance Outliers recently and they talk a lot about fueling the body for different activities. One of the hosts has gone over 2 years eating only meat and drinking water and he's a world champion rower. The other host holds the 100 mile run record.
You could also do a little more homework, read a little more in terms of the further certifications, testimonials
Feel free to fill in your knowledge of their certificates, I'm more than happy to have a discussion about it.
, and the fact that Neely is putting all of that work back into the climbing industry, which has many growing little niches.
Look I get it: there's cash-money to be had by telling people explicitly how to eat. And you're right, I'll be a skeptic about anyone that says they know the secret to diet that everyone else has gotten wrong. I don't believe much hype.
You could also do a little more homework, read a little more in terms of the further certifications, testimonials, and the fact that Neely is putting all of that work back into the climbing industry, which has many growing little niches. Of course, regarding my statement, it can easily be met with more skepticism.
Either way, I'm glad you're taking a stand on the MP forum.
To be clear, I am not saying that Neely isn't knowledgeable regarding nutrition. Or that she isn't a beneficial resource for her clients. I am saying that a Nutrition Certificate from a difficult to research institution is of questionable value, beyond what the individuals put into their own education. But this is true for much of education.
I’ve enjoyed the Training Beta podcast since it began, albeit less so the nutritional asides. Nevertheless, IMHO, Neely’s dietary advice has reflected common sense, been consistent with what I know of the underlying science, and has been refreshingly free of dogma. I’m not in the market for a nutritional consult, but if I were, I’d definitely consider Neely, regardless of where she was certified. YMMV
David K
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Apr 5, 2019
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The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 424
I listen to the Training Beta Podcast, and a lot of the nutrition practices of the athletes they interview are kind of off-base from scientifically-based nutrition.
Like one athlete in the early episodes, mentions she tried eating chicken and vegetables before her workouts because that's what you're supposed to eat, and she would just be tired throughout her workout. And now she eats a cookie before her sessions, and that works better for her.
If you understand the functions of fat, protein, and carbohydrates in the diet and how they are digested, this absolutely makes sense that she would perform better if she consumes fuel before she climbs, rather than consuming building blocks of recovery. But she seemed to draw the conclusion that none of the widely accepted nutrition worked for her, when in fact, widely accepted nutrition completely explains what she experienced, and could tell her how to do it even better.
A cookie with all its easily-digestible fuel is obviously going to fuel your workout better than a chunk of chicken which will pull a bunch of your body's resources to your gut to digest. That doesn't mean chicken and veggies aren't good--they're just recovery food that you'd want to eat after a workout. And she could do even better by eating complex carbohydrates and vegetable fats instead of the cookie.
I think climbing is at a phase where we still aren't hitting the limits of human potential, so a lot of climbers can reach elite levels just based on their genetics, while still using sub-par nutrition and training methods. So I think we're better off right now looking to sports science and scientifically-researched nutrition than looking at what high-performing climbers are doing. Of course, some climbers (i.e. Adam Ondra and Dave MacLeod) ARE integrating a lot of scientific research into their training--and I don't think it's any coincidence that they are turning out to be some of the top performers in the sport who stand out from even the other elite climbers.
i aim for 1 gram of protein per pound of body weight. this is a pretty well accepted standard in bodybuilding. obviously climbers are not bodybuilders but we are both breaking down muscle and looking to repair it as fast as possible. from what i've reading protein timing is relatively unimportant.
i think neely is generally spot on with nutrition.
Trevor stuart
wrote:
i aim for 1 gram of protein per pound of body weight. this is a pretty well accepted standard in bodybuilding. obviously climbers are not bodybuilders but we are both breaking down muscle and looking to repair it as fast as possible. from what i've reading protein timing is relatively unimportant.
Reviving an old thread. What does your typical daily meal plan look like? Seems like you have to consume a lot of protein rich food, especially if you're avoiding powders. It would take me like 7 hamburger patties/day!
More than likely, you're getting enough protein already, so long as you're not eating primarily refined foods made mostly of sugar. If that's the case, treat the illness, not the symptom.
And muscle development towards bodybuilder proportions isn't even a desired trait in rock climbing, or any other sport where the point is to fight against gravity. What does your local crusher look like?
If you want to get super muscular, get on gear, then take in a lot of protein - your climbing will suffer. IMHO your time and money is best spent signing up for a CSA and a hangboard - and not to some diet guru.
More than likely, you're getting enough protein already, so long as you're not eating primarily refined foods made mostly of sugar. If that's the case, treat the illness, not the symptom.
And muscle development towards bodybuilder proportions isn't even a desired trait in rock climbing, or any other sport where the point is to fight against gravity. What does your local crusher look like?
If you want to get super muscular, get on gear, then take in a lot of protein - your climbing will suffer. IMHO your time and money is best spent signing up for a CSA and a hangboard - and not to some diet guru.
Anecdotally, I noticed that I recovered faster from a hard workout after I started drinking protein shakes immediately after (used to take 2-3 days for full recovery, now it takes 1-2). Still don't climb hard though.
Actually I have no dietary restrictions what so ever - other than food allergies/sensitivites, I don't believe in any. For how much aerobic activity I do and how old I am, it's surprising to even me how much muscle I carry on my frame, especially that (except for climbing), I don't do anything that comes close to intense weightlifting-like training - I just don't starve myself. Anymore. Other than, "don't starve yourself", try "eat enough" and, "rest lots". Again, it's not easy to sell that program, but it works!
More than likely, you're getting enough protein already, so long as you're not eating primarily refined foods made mostly of sugar. If that's the case, treat the illness, not the symptom.
And muscle development towards bodybuilder proportions isn't even a desired trait in rock climbing, or any other sport where the point is to fight against gravity. What does your local crusher look like?
I am skeptical also, but was thinking it would be worth experimenting with to see how it goes. I've noticed my recovery is bad when I climb 2 or more days in a row, 1 rest day isn't enough anymore. In general my diet is mostly free of processed foods, very little sugar and a moderate amount of meat. I can't do dairy though, so whey powder is out. I'd prefer no powders in general. Would love to hear some high protein meal plans that people are utilizing.
I am skeptical also, but was thinking it would be worth experimenting with to see how it goes. I've noticed my recovery is bad when I climb 2 or more days in a row, 1 rest day isn't enough anymore. In general my diet is mostly free of processed foods, very little sugar and a moderate amount of meat. I can't do dairy though, so whey powder is out. I'd prefer no powders in general. Would love to hear some high protein meal plans that people are utilizing.
I am also lactose intolerant. But you can shop around and find some with an amount that won't trigger a reaction. Look for "Isolate" on the package. They have most of the lactose fermented out. You could also just mix in a Lactaid with your shake.
Eggs are a fantastic source of protein. In fact, they are the PERFECT protein. If you don't want the cholesterol, get frozen egg whites in 1/2 gallon jugs.
Wait until you get to be my age, I can't even work out four days a week any more without crippling amounts of pain. Mainly from arthritis and structural defects from injuries. I recommend ice after a hard workout.
Reviving an old thread. What does your typical daily meal plan look like? Seems like you have to consume a lot of protein rich food, especially if you're avoiding powders. It would take me like 7 hamburger patties/day!
I’ve been whole food plant based for the last couple years. No longer hitting any protein goals. No powders still. Recovery and performance are better than when I used to hit a gram per pound of body weight.
I was eating large amounts of lean meat with every meal. A pound of hamburger per day was not unusual back then.
David K
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Sep 25, 2021
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The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 424
More than likely, you're getting enough protein already, so long as you're not eating primarily refined foods made mostly of sugar. If that's the case, treat the illness, not the symptom.
And muscle development towards bodybuilder proportions isn't even a desired trait in rock climbing, or any other sport where the point is to fight against gravity. What does your local crusher look like?
If you want to get super muscular, get on gear, then take in a lot of protein - your climbing will suffer. IMHO your time and money is best spent signing up for a CSA and a hangboard - and not to some diet guru.
Sorry for the rant.
Counterpoint, from someone who actually knows what they're talking about: nutrition for climbing.
NOTE: I'm not saying the podcast you linked is wrong. However, I'll point out that literally all the nutrition resources it links are about child development, not about exercise. The evidence you're citing isn't a source for what you're saying: it literally has nothing to do with exercise, let alone climbing. Maybe protein isn't as needed for child development as previously thought, but it's certainly necessary for muscle growth and general recovery from exertion.
Actually I have no dietary restrictions what so ever - other than food allergies/sensitivites, I don't believe in any. For how much aerobic activity I do and how old I am, it's surprising to even me how much muscle I carry on my frame, especially that (except for climbing), I don't do anything that comes close to intense weightlifting-like training - I just don't starve myself. Anymore. Other than, "don't starve yourself", try "eat enough" and, "rest lots". Again, it's not easy to sell that program, but it works!
When you say "it works": for what purpose, and how well does it work compared to other possibilities?
Depending on what your climbing goals are, you may be able to reach your climbing goals with a truly abysmal diet if you get enough other things right (training, rest, etc.). That "works" for you, but that doesn't mean your diet is optimal.