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Suggestions for one day in tahoe

Original Post
dsauerbrun · · Boulder · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 56

Hi all,

I'm making a trip to tahoe next week(will be staying in tahoma, probably willing to drive an hour from there) and will have one day available to climb. I've never been out there so I'm looking for suggestions.

I'm going to be staying with some friends who have never climbed before so bonus points if there is some 5.6/5.7 single pitches for them to top rope in the area that i can put up(not a requirement though).

For sport climbing, I'm interested in 5.9-11+(I climb 12a somewhat comfortably but i'd rather do some onsighting if i only have one day).

for trad, I lead up to 5.9 and am open to multipitch suggestions.

If there are really good sport suggestions that would let me leave the trad rack at home that'd earn you some bonus points as well since I'm not certain i'll be able to fit it all in my bag heh.

thanks in advance!

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7

There's not a ton of sport climbing around Tahoe, but you'll be close to Mayhem Cove, which is accessed from the Eagle Lake trail down by Emerald Bay. The climbing there is steeper (for granite at least) and kind of blocky/thuggy. Or head up to Donner; the Space Wall is a good option for sport routes around your grade range. They're techy and really fun and make for challenging onsights. For stuff your friends can climb head over to Castle Rock off of Kingsbury Grade: mountainproject.com/area/10…

Brandon R · · CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 194

To piggy back on Sean's suggestion, I'd say get your fix at Mayhem, then move the show over to 90 foot wall for your friends. Shade in the afternoon. Parking can be a pain though. 

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 21

 Mayhem cove may be your best option.   Quick approach, granite and killer views. Big chief will have way more sport climbs but it's volcanic without views of the Lake.   Donner would be a good option as well. 

 I'd leave the nonclimbing friends at home.   

Jordy Clements · · Incline Village, NV · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 41

Coming in at one hour and two minutes from Tahoma, the Emeralds will have a veritable lifetime of climbing compared to the other areas people I suggested (do love Mayhem though). It gets crowded, and it’s not really in Tahoe, but it has awesome climbing from 5.6 - 5.hard and some beautiful pools to hop in after you climb. 

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Donner, lots of easily top roped stuff for your pals in their range. You'll need a rack, though. One Hand Clapping is a classic (2 pitch?) 5.9, well worth doing. And anything up by the roadside Kindergarten Wall will work for your pals.

almostrad · · BLC · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 13

The mayhem to 90ft link up is the way, but I’d go reverse and start at 90ft.
mayhem is hot until about 3 or so

grubbers · · West Shore · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

If you plan to climb around Emerald Bay, get there really early or late in the day. The parking lots have been filling up before 8am this summer.

dsauerbrun · · Boulder · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 56

awesome, thanks for the beta guys! lots of stuff to look over

Gerald Adams · · Sacramento · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

What about The Pie Shop ?

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137

There is a lot of what you are looking for at Big Chief.  The advantage relative to Mayhem is the parking is 1000X easier and the front side is in the shade in the AM, and the backside is in the shade in the afternoon.  Yeah it's not super scenic but the front side would probably be kind of fun for non-climber to get to - you go up a through a little notch and there a bit of pretty easy downclimbing.  There is not a lot that's very easy(or very hard) there. IIRC, 5.11 is the sweet spot. If you go there, a stick clip can be useful. My guidebook isn't handy, but I do recall at least one juggy 5.8 that might be entertaining for beginners.

Edited to say, I just looked at the MP listings for Big Chief.  There are definitely enough easy routes for first timers.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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