Bad Bolts Tahoe

Post up your bad bolts observations here for the Tahoe area. Doesn’t seem that the BadBolts website is getting much traffic.
Location

Route 

Issue 

Great idea. Following. 

For my curiosity. What counts as Tahoe? Anything in the basin? Anything listed in the Tahoe region on MP?

Who all is doing the replacement? I would be happy to work on stuff on the hwy 50 corridor as I am able. 

Also curious on the parameters of what areas fall under badbolts operations.
Im able to do some stuff in north lake areas, but I currently only have weekends and haven’t been motivated to spend my free time working sadly. 

Bobby Hutton wrote:

For my curiosity. What counts as Tahoe? Anything in the basin? Anything listed in the Tahoe region on MP?

Who all is doing the replacement? I would be happy to work on stuff on the hwy 50 corridor as I am able. 

Tahoe Climbing Coalition uses the Bad Bolts website to help inform bolt replacement efforts, so I'd encourage people to use the website. And anyone is free to use the website as a resource if they want to do bolt replacement on their own. 

TCC mostly focuses on the South Lake zone and the basin (CRAGS historically is involved with the Leap/Hwy 50 corridor outside of the basin, although I'm not sure if they use BadBolts.com), but there aren't strict boundaries. There's a North Lake Climbing Coalition for the Truckee area that also does some bolt replacement.

You could post it on Bad Bolts and it will likely get replaced or checked in the next year or two.

Or... you could post it here. A site which actually gets traffic and it would most likely get done by the weekend. Jus say’n. 

Two more:

Area: Auburn Quarry
Crag: Horseshoe Canyon
Route: Human Oddity
Description: Third bolt, which protects the first crux, is rusted. Someone mentioned the fourth bolt was also looking suspect as of last April.

Area: Auburn Quarry
Crag: Horsepoo Canyon
Route: Bat Karma
Description: First bolt is missing.

BadBolts could use a "Follow Area/Crag" feature similar to the - Follow topic: ☑  Email ☑  Notify on site -  here on MP, that way people (who replace) can sign up to receive an email when a bad bolt hits the database, from a specific crag, area or greater area etc.

Also there should be (thought there used to be) a spot that’s easily found on ASCA website to log when a climb has had hardware replaced with ASCA stuff. 

Area: Castle Rock, Nevada

Crag: West Gully, Central Gully

Description:

Many of the routes here finish on Open cold shuts as the anchors. They are extremley worn, are spinning and really could use replacement. 

Zachery Smith wrote:

Area: Castle Rock, Nevada

Crag: West Gully, Central Gully

Description: 

Many of the routes here finish on Open cold shuts as the anchors. They are extremley worn, are spinning and really could use replacement. 

Area: Big Chief
Crag: Light Deprivation Buttress
Route: Poke in the Dark
Description: 1st bolt sticking out of the rock at least two inches, 2nd and 4th bolt are loose in the hole. Spinning hangers on all but one bolt. One of the anchor bolts are slightly loose and both hooks (no hangers) are spinning.

The fourth bolt on Radio Static at the Emeralds has some rust and corrosion. I'm no bolt expert so I have no idea how to evaluate whether its strength has been compromised.

Max R wrote:

The fourth bolt on Radio Static at the Emeralds has some rust and corrosion. I'm no bolt expert so I have no idea how to evaluate whether its strength has been compromised.

Most all those bolts on radio static should be replaced. 

Out to lunge at the leap needs some work. Last bolt is very bad shape, and the other "good" looking button heads gotta go too. Anchor seems good enough. Happy to hop on it and replace with some new 3/8ss wedges and hangers with blessing from the community.

Mr Rogers wrote:

Out to lunge at the leap needs some work. Last bolt is very bad shape, and the other "good" looking button heads gotta go too. Anchor seems good enough. Happy to hop on it and replace with some new 3/8ss wedges and hangers with blessing from the community.

I’m not pre judging your rebolting skills because I don’t know your experience level, but I believe some of those buttonheads may be 5/16th. Those can be extremely difficult to remove and require a bit of skill and specific technique to remove cleanly. Just FYI.

 If you can do it cleanly bolt for bolt and not just hack and patch, then I’d say go for it. 

Have the gear and knowledge to do it clean and correct. Will extract and reuse the holes.
And yeah, those 5/16s can be a real PITA compared to the 1/4.

Farcical Aquatic Ceremony bolts 4 and 5 are loose. Kind of chossy rock. 

Telegraph Crack, Donner Summit, the top bolts and hardware.

Glen Prior wrote:

Telegraph Crack, Donner Summit, the top bolts and hardware.

When were you last there? I climbed this a couple of weeks ago and the hardware is brand new.

I was there about a month ago. Thank you, whoever replaced that anchor. Greener Pastures, also on Donner Summit, has one really lousy spinner on the top anchor, and could also benefit from shiny new top anchors.

Me again... 

Donner Summit

Snowshed Wall Gully.

Shared anchor for Breakout, Rapid Transit, and Shake it Out.

Both anchor bolts are spinning. I have 6 or so new Metolius quick links that I can donate to the cause of anchor upkeep at Donner Summit.