DIY Petzl Dual Connect Adjust

Lately I haven't been stoked about hanging on just one girth hitched loop of nylon on multipitch descents (Sterling chain reactor PAS) and it's pretty annoying to also use that as a rappel extension from hanging anchors (hard to get the carabiner in a loaded loop). Lately I've used my PAS for tethering and something else for extending my rappel (sling, quickdraw, etc) as the separation makes it so much easier to rig and check. 

I am generally not into overly complicated single use gear but I want to try something different. Purcell prusik tethers are too slow and fiddly to adjust, and I generally try to avoid going direct to anchors with dyneema and those are the only slings I carry (other than alpine bail tat cord/webbing sometimes). 

Haven't seen anybody in the wild with a Petzl connect adjust but the SIET and OR YouTube channels feature them heavily (prob partners with/sponsored by Petzl) and the grab-and-yank tether shortening seems really nice. I don't want want to drop $50 to try it out so I built one with some old 9.8 rope and a microtrax. 

Obvs don't introduce slack and fall onto any tether, dynamic or otherwise, and the microtrax will likely mangle the rope sheath with a 50cm FF1 but it probably won't cut through it in one go, especially on this chunker. Since this thing is infinitely adjustable, I can always keep it at the perfect length to hang on the anchor. Petzl testing for using the microtrax as a top-belay device but the drop-testing is relevant to what I'm doing here.

Girth hitch the loop through my harness tie-in points works great (I'm not sure why Petzl says to girth hitch the connect adjust through your belay loop, seems weird to me). Shortening is just a yank on the loose end. Lengthening is easy to do one-handed by lifting the cam with my thumb since it's facing out towards me. Don't really care if I catch a few sheath fibers every now and then with the teeth. Stopper knot keeps me from falling off the end if I lock the microtrax open somehow.

It ain't super light (rope section is ~190g, total 325g with trax & sm'D) but it's also made out of tools I can use on the way up a multi like a micro trax with a spare locker for hauling or rescue, and in a pinch I could undo the knots and have about 8ft of rope for whatever. Compare this to the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust that is 160g without a carabiner (~215g w/ sm'D and rubber keeper) but the only thing you can really repurpose is the carabiner so the rest is dead weight. 

Going to try it out tomorrow. Am I gonna die? 

good idea   but really bulky

curvenut wrote:

good idea   but really bulky

Compared to my chain reactor, 2 lockers (technically you should use 2 to shorten it so you don't have to open the one you're hanging on) and the locking dogbone I've been using for the rap extension, it's not that much bulkier, but definitely not super trim. 

Have a look at the Kong Slyde, in place of the micro trax.

CD Transporter wrote:

Have a look at the Kong Slyde, in place of the micro trax.

Thanks, I've heard of it, seems a little more fiddly to release slack and I'd have to scrounge up a 9.0mm rope for it. Thicker ropes seem to suck in the Slyde. Also the slyde can't be used for things a microtraxion can be, hence my point in using that for double-duty. 

PWZ wrote:

Because having your tie in point scrunched up all day sucks, and there's no reason to since the belay loop is already through both.

I don't wear my PAS except for the descent on multis anyway and I really don't notice the difference between hanging from a tether through my tie-in loops and hanging from my figure 8, but I tie my figure 8 loop the size of my belay loop or a bit smaller anyway so maybe I'm used to a little scrunch.

Girth hitching the overhand on a bight I put in my DIY connect adjust is plenty comfortable through the tie-in points and leaves my belay loop free for connecting my 3rd hand carabiner without mashing the 2 together.

K Go wrote:

 (I'm not sure why Petzl says to girth hitch the connect adjust through your belay loop, seems weird to me). 

Because having your tie in point scrunched up all day sucks, and there's no reason to since the belay loop is already through both.

I am generally not into overly complicated single use gear

I think the Dual Connect idea is great, just depends what you're doing and what else is on your harness. I think a good use is solo-ing ice. Not much else on my harness so don't care about the bulk and I'll have it rigged ready to go. Seems like the most efficient way to get myself equalized (ish) on 2 screws with dynamic tethers if I come to an impasse and need to make a V thread.

When I'm leading and I have a full harness I try to carry more multi-use stuff. I often carry ~8ft of bail cord anyway, so I do rig it into a Purcell which works fine as an extendable draw, a tether or a rap extension. I'll put 2 lockers on one of my quickdraw dogbones which I use on route, but also as a rappel extension (agree with you separation is nice). I also carry a dynamic 60cm sling (Beal and Metolius make them) which works well as a dynamic PAS, but can also be used as a draw on the way up. 

So basically I think it comes down to optimizing for the situation. Sometimes a one-trick pony makes sense. 

Or you know, we could both just sack up and girth hitch dyneema slings like the cool kids :-) Probs wouldn't die.

The micro traction cost more than the connect.

The connect handles a fall factor 2 fall the system you created will not.

Purcell Prusik.

If the extra weight bothers you, you could save a bit of weight on the rack using this system:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120442841/alternative-way-of-connecting-rope-to-protection#ForumMessage-120444806 

jdejace wrote:

I think the Dual Connect idea is great, just depends what you're doing and what else is on your harness. I think a good use is solo-ing ice. Not much else on my harness so don't care about the bulk and I'll have it rigged ready to go. Seems like the most efficient way to get myself equalized (ish) on 2 screws with dynamic tethers if I come to an impasse and need to make a V thread.

When I'm leading and I have a full harness I try to carry more multi-use stuff. I often carry ~8ft of bail cord anyway, so I do rig it into a Purcell which works fine as an extendable draw, a tether or a rap extension. I'll put 2 lockers on one of my quickdraw dogbones which I use on route, but also as a rappel extension (agree with you separation is nice). I also carry a dynamic 60cm sling (Beal and Metolius make them) which works well as a dynamic PAS, but can also be used as a draw on the way up. 

So basically I think it comes down to optimizing for the situation. Sometimes a one-trick pony makes sense. 

Or you know, we could both just sack up and girth hitch dyneema slings like the cool kids :-) Probs wouldn't die.

Soloing ice! Whelp you got me there, but I can see something that is quick and easy like the connect adjust being perfect if safety if your top priority and you aren't carrying much other gear. 

I forgot about the dynamic slings that are out there, that could be a decent compromise for longer routes if I get a double or triple length and basket hitch it through my harness, but not easily adjustable tether length. 

I tried out my DIY tether yesterday on a little 3 pitch route with rap descent, and it was wonderful. Definitely a bit bulky but that's because of the rope I used, I think a 9.2 ish would be better, but the functionality was fantastic for quickly clipping in at each anchor on the way down, getting the right length to setup a rap, then extending the tether out so I could test my rap system before unhooking. Later in the day just for comparison I used just a basket-hitched double length dyneema sling for both rap extension and tether and it's still just as annoying as I remember, especially having 2 people setting up a rap at the same time. It's just too short of a tether and I couldn't actually weight my rap system before unhooking my tether, so I had to deviate from my established rappel safety protocols. I know I could just girth hitch a 120 as a single loop but that's even worse than just using my nylon PAS in terms of safety. 

climber pat wrote:

The micro traction cost more than the connect.

The connect handles a fall factor 2 fall the system you created will not.

I already had a microtrax, carabiner and this rope segment, so this cost me nothing. Not suggesting it as cheaper if you go out and buy all the stuff.

My main point here is that what else is the connect adjust good for as you ascend? It just sits on the back of your harness, whereas I can use a microtrax for simul climbing, hauling, rescue, etc. and the rope section isn't sewn so heck you could use it for anchor building or even leave it as bail tat in a pinch. I could scrounge a slightly thinner/lighter segment of rope to reduce weight/bulk (I'm using ~10mm). Overall I was trying to create a multi-use system that functioned similarly to the connect adjust. 

And you're right, a FF2 onto this would be bad on a microtrax, would definitely mangle the sheath and probably expose the core, but I don't think it would cut from one fall. The point of an adjustable tether is it's super quick and easy to adjust so you're always at the perfect length to the anchor to keep it tight. Regardless of your tethering method, don't climb above it.

Exiled Michigander wrote:

Purcell Prusik.

Been there, it's annoying to adjust and similarly you're just hanging on one girth hitched loop, in this case cord instead of nylon like my Sterling chain reactor. Doesn't give me the feel goods. 

J C wrote:

If the extra weight bothers you, you could save a bit of weight on the rack using this system:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120442841/alternative-way-of-connecting-rope-to-protection#ForumMessage-120444806

Joking? I just skimmed it, but that seems like an fussy, over-complicated system. One comment over there: "This is like reinventing the wheel by making it triangular. " 

K Go wrote:

 but that seems like an fussy, over-complicated system.

I mean, that sort of fits here. adjusting (releasing) slack on a trax isn't exactly the most gradual deal.

K Go wrote:

My main point here is that what else is the connect adjust good for as you ascend? It just sits on the back of your harness, whereas I can use a microtrax for simul climbing, hauling, rescue, etc. and the rope section isn't sewn so heck you could use it for anchor building or even leave it as bail tat in a pinch. I could scrounge a slightly thinner/lighter segment of rope to reduce weight/bulk (I'm using ~10mm). Overall I was trying to create a multi-use system that functioned similarly to the connect adjust. 

An option exists for that, obviously it's more money than the zero extra dollars you spent on your existing setup, but it's basically your existing setup with a better solution in place of the Micro: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Lanyards/DUAL-CONNECT-VARIO

Releasing the Micro under tension is gonna be a deal-breaker for your system for me, even if I didn't pay attention to the breaking strength of the Micro vs the UIAA standard strength for a personal lanyard (15 kn, according to UIAA 109). I've used the Dual Connect Vario --- it does the things you're describing, without the sketchiness of the Micro in that configuration. If you replaced the lanyard you built with this thing, and you carried your Micro with you as well, the total added weight would be the weight of the little orange adjusty thing on Petzl's adjustable lanyards. 

Hey guys, I didn’t feel very safe with a single 9.8 rope, so I’m trying something new. Lemme know what you think!

wasn't there some aussie who was wondering about a pair of grigris for a lanyard? This place is fantastic.

Why are you carrying 3 lockers for a pass and why are you concerned about a sling holding bodyweight when you fall on it all the time. 

This seems bulkier, heavier, and more cumbersome than just a single locker on a sling girth hitched to you and an alpine between bolts for redudancy.

https://www.petzl.com/sfc/servlet.shepherd/version/download/0685I000006EbjIQAS

This is how I have used it for MP raps - girth to tie-in points and clip carabiner with autoblock to belay loop

I forget the specifics and numbers, but someone was saying on a rope soloing thread that the microtrax will fail at really low loads if it slips and encounters a blocking knot.  It might be nice to have to keep it from fully falling out of the device when trying to extend, but isn't really providing you any actual redundancy in the event of a microtrax failure.  I modified the CAMP swing (I put a thinner rope in it) and it works great.  It would be a good alternative to what you're using the microtrax for.  Pretty easy to release and actually designed for the application you're using it for.  It should give pause for thought if you think about the manufacturer looking at what you're using their kit for and freaking out because it wasn't designed to be used or loaded in that way.

Max Tepfer wrote:

I forget the specifics and numbers, but someone was saying on a rope soloing thread that the microtrax will fail at really low loads if it slips and encounters a blocking knot.  It might be nice to have to keep it from fully falling out of the device when trying to extend, but isn't really providing you any actual redundancy in the event of a microtrax failure.  I modified the CAMP swing (I put a thinner rope in it) and it works great.  It would be a good alternative to what you're using the microtrax for.  Pretty easy to release and actually designed for the application you're using it for.  It should give pause for thought if you think about the manufacturer looking at what you're using their kit for and freaking out because it wasn't designed to be used or loaded in that way.

As I recall the microtraxion shreds the rope at 5-6 kN.    

The other test was falling (FF 1.7) on a microtraxion used as a cache loop holder with a stopper knot.  The microtraxion was damaged but did not break.  

The difference between the 2 tests in the direction the rope is moving through the microtraxion.  

Connor Dobson wrote:

Why are you carrying 3 lockers for a pass and why are you concerned about a sling holding bodyweight when you fall on it all the time. 

This seems bulkier, heavier, and more cumbersome than just a single locker on a sling girth hitched to you and an alpine between bolts for redudancy.

You fall on slings with a dynamic rope in the system. Nobody is questioning a sling's ability to hold ~200lbs in a static capacity, more what happens when you slip and shock load the anchor. We all try our best not to. Probably there is some shock absorption in the harness and human body not captured by drop tower tests. I don't think there's a definitive answer as to the utility of a dynamic PAS, but OP wants to be on the safe side evidently. You do you. Plenty of climbers use a sling, outside of that Todd Skinner freak accident I've not heard of any issues. Probably even less likely with a thick nylon one.

Not so much on rappel when you've presumably got a dynamic climbing rope in the system, but at sketchy rappel anchors. Static pull tests aren't really the point. It's nice the (nylon) sling won't break but I don't want to transmit 4000lbs onto my anchor because it might break. I try not to put myself in that situation, but sometimes I step up to fiddle with a V thread or something. A dynamic PAS has a larger safety margin. Whether that has widespread applicability in real world use I'm not sure anyone knows for sure. Good bolts in good rock it would be less likely to make a difference. The extra weight is trivial to me for the gumby routes I'm climbing, as is the extra money. So I choose to use one of the readily available products made to exploit scaredy cats. If you're psyched on slings, you do you. Most likely it's fine at least 99.9% of the time, if not 100%. If people were dying regularly from this practice we'd probably know about it.