What ice axe length should I get?

I currently have the Petzl Glacier 75cm for more general mountaineering/hiking with an ice axe but I am looking to get more into some technical mountaineering this season. I'm thinking of getting the Petzl Summit (first is this a good choice?) but I'm not sure if I should get the 59cm or the 66cm. I am 6'2" and I looked at both axes side by side in store but I couldn't decide on a length. Any help would be much appreciated!

Why do you think you would require another, very similar (if slightly shorter) axe for "technical mountaineering"? While there are limitations for longer axes on steeper terrain, if you can get away with one axe on the climb then 75 cm (for your height) is probably fine. The Glacier is very, very similar to the Summit and not likely to have a significant improvement in technical movement (i.e. front pointing and related piolet techniques).

If you want to explore more technical routes, then two axes (Sum'tec, or Quarks for instance) for steep snow or easy ice climbing, or a single very short (45 cm) axe for descending technical ski routes makes more sense.

i find that my 57cm BD venom gets pulled out way more than my 65cm straight shaft raven on anything remotely technical. a shorter axe climbs steep snow better and lets you move through short ice sections just fine, especially when paired with a more technical axe. if going for a 2nd axe, i would highly recommend something with interchangeable picks like the venom or sum'tec. you can throw on a general mountaineering pick or a more technical ice pick when needed.

edit: my "go to" for anything that may require climbing through ice but also contains a fair bit of snow climbing is 2 BD venoms, (1) 57cm adze with the mountain tech pick and (1) 50cm hammer with an alpine pick. climb up to WI/AI3 just fine.

Alright thanks for the info so I don't end up wasting my money. It sounds like I should check out the venom or sum'tec based on your guys' tips so I'll do just that. I'm probably more inclined to get the sum'tec as I am not a fan of BD's alpine/ice equipment. I'll probably go for the sum'tec hammer for the reasons above. Thanks!

IMO can’t go wrong with Sum’Tecs.  You can stretch them to fit a wide variety of applications.  (Same with venoms, essentially) 

Eventually add a BD Whippet and then some Nomics and you’re covered for skiing/climbing everything from icy sidewalks to WI5+ 

When you say technical, what routes were you thinking on doing? 

Chris Topher wrote:

When you say technical, what routes were you thinking on doing? 

Something akin to the Matterhorn or Rainier vs to me something basic is like Mt. Hood which is just a big glacier walk

Mark: Thanks for the advice but I already own Nomics :) they just don't plunge well at all imo which is why I 'need' a more in between tool

Heck, you’re not partners with Cooper Burns by any chance?  Lol.  He asked almost the same question a few weeks ago.  

And there I said Sum’Tecs would be my recommendation for a third set of tools.  Perfect for you if you already have Nomics and a 75 cm.

I’d just sharpen the picks a bit from stock. 

Bryce Dahlgren wrote:

Something akin to the Matterhorn or Rainier vs to me something basic is like Mt. Hood which is just a big glacier walk

Mt. Rainier is actually significantly less technical (in terms of steep climbing and ice axes) than Mt Hood, assuming standard routes on both.  Don't be fooled by elevation, the actual nature of the routes is different than elevation might indicate.  A long, straight shaft ice axe is very appropriate (perhaps even desirable) on Rainier (DC or Emmons).  On Hood, a shorter and more technical axe is generally better (with much variation of season and conditions).

Just something to consider!

Chris Topher wrote:

When you say technical, what routes were you thinking on doing?

Bryce Dahlgren wrote:

Something akin to the Matterhorn or Rainier vs to me something basic is like Mt. Hood which is just a big glacier walk

This answer has no basis in reality as it does not any address the question. Might as well toss Alpamyo, Nanda Devi, Denali, and K2 in there.

When looking at ice axe length you want it to be no longer than ankle length when holding it at your side - it's not a walking stick. Mine is about an inch above my ankle which I find to be just about perfect. If you're planning on doing routes that don't require any ice climbing I'd recommend against the Sum’Tecs as they will have worse self-arrest performance than a standard ice axe due to the technical pick. If you do plan on doing some moderate ice then the Sum'Tec is a great choice as others have already pointed out.

Assuming your Petzl Glacier is an appropriate length it'd be perfectly fine for any of the standard routes on the mountains you mentioned. That said, I think the Petzl Summit is really excellent and that's what I use for all my glacier routes. The bent shaft provides more leverage for better self-arrest performance and makes it easier to use on steeper terrain. It's only CEN-B rated but I've also used it for some low-angle ice climbing without any issues.

Bryce Dahlgren wrote:

....I'm not sure if I should get the 59cm or the 66cm. I am 6'2" and I looked at both axes side by side in store but I couldn't decide on a length.

Kinda depends on personal preference.  I'm 6'1" and my "alpine" ice axes vary in length according to the objective and what kind of conditiions I'm willing to stumble into.

A short bit of technical climbing versus a long glacier route...different tools for me.  Fast and light versus multi day on a route.  Different tools.

Personally wouldn't get a tool longer than around 60cm but I don't usually prefer to lean on one on lower angle snow/ice.  I have a pair of Venoms (hammer and adze) at 57cm for longer neve type routes.  50 to 55cm axe for when I think I might have to front point up a steepish coulior that "might" be icey.  And, in that case, something with some heft that places well in WI3-ish terrain.

Grivel Air Tech is a nice tool.  Doable in a hammer too if you think you'll be whackin' in pickets or pins (or setting tent pegs).  I like how comfy a hammer is to carry in the hand.  

My favorite general tool is a Raven Pro (mine's a 53cm).  For use on snow and neve type climbing.  Doable for a short bit of alpine ice.  Carrys comfy in the hand.  Not much weight.

Lot of great options.  I like the looks of the BD Swift or one of the Blue Ice models, maybe a Petzl Sum'tec or Summit.

Your climbing WI5+ and 5.10d and you are wondering what ice axe to use for technical climbs like Rainier or the Matterhorn?

 

Chris C wrote:

Your climbing WI5+ and 5.10d and you are wondering what ice axe to use for technical climbs like Rainier or the Matterhorn?

 

 

I have Nomics but they don't work that well for plunging or for self arresting, which is why I asked about a better tool for mountaineering

Well, might as well add that you’d typically use a different length axe or axes for Rainier and the Matterhorn, just assuming most common routes.  Longer for Rainier and shorter one for Hornli