Best gear for Lead Rope Soloing?

Please, nobody sarcastically say, "a belayer," or something like that...

I have used a gri gri with my rope stacked in a backpack pack but obviously the gri gri cams up a bit unless it is oriented in the perfect position.

What do you use?

I don't lead rope solo anymore, but when i did, the best setup was a GG (and I've tried them all including the SP, Soloist, and Revo), facing backwards and a cache loop held by a minitrax connected to a gear loop. It's counter intuitive (at least to me) but fed and clipped amazingly well. Whoever came up with that setup had a stroke of genius 

 For leading with the rope in a pack the Eldelrid Eddy worked best because of the direction of rope feed.

With both setups, getting the right rope pairing was critical for good feed and lock-up.

Join the Lead Rope Solo group on FB...tons of good (and some bad) info.

Silent partner is best, Revo is next best 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Silent partner is best, Revo is next best 

Well I can’t afford a silent partner and I have heard that revos can rip your rope if you fall on them. Is that true??

James Corbett wrote:

Well I can’t afford a silent partner and I have heard that revos can rip your rope if you fall on them. Is that true??

The tests done with the Revo that caused shredding of the rope sheath were not tests that emulate real world situations.

What are peoples opinion on the Rock Exotica Soloist?

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

The tests done with the Revo that caused shredding of the rope sheath were not tests that emulate real world situations.

Do you mean in that it was a factor 2, or the fact that it wasn't a squishy human body, or that it was a gym rope?

I've tried a bunch of different things. Grigri with microtrax, grigri alone, grigri with jumar, jumar with microtrax etc etc. Single rope with both devices one single rope - one on belay loop the other on a sling around both shoulders, double rope with a device on each. 

It depends on a few things IMO. How comfortable are you with the systems, your anchor situation, lead or TR solo, over hanging route or vertical wall, ledges that could be hit, etc. 

For me, I settled on a mini trax with alpine knots every six feet on a single 9.8mm static rope. It feeds the best and is simple and safe. 

If I have to escape the system, I clip a grigri in, clip a jumar in with a 120 sling, pull up on the grigri, stand on the jumar, unhook the trax and rap down. 

It took me a few times out to figure it all out. I learned what not to do mostly and settled on my suggestion above.

For lead soloing I would suggest doing a full grade or two below your push. Keep the rope at the bottom, chest sling with a binder for easier feed and use the microtrax essentially in the same way. If you have to escape the system it'll be more difficult the closer you are to the last clip or piece of gear placed. 

I recommend testing all of this out low to the ground until you get it dialed in. IMO its a safe way to climb but you have to be doubly vigilant to all aspects because its just you. 

A Microtrax should NEVER EVER be used for protection in a lead rope solo set up. The only use for a MT (for lead rope solo) is to manage a cache loop so the primary device feeds smoothly.

Dan Bruck wrote:

I've tried a bunch of different things. Grigri with microtrax, grigri alone, grigri with jumar, jumar with microtrax etc etc. Single rope with both devices one single rope - one on belay loop the other on a sling around both shoulders, double rope with a device on each. 

It depends on a few things IMO. How comfortable are you with the systems, your anchor situation, lead or TR solo, over hanging route or vertical wall, ledges that could be hit, etc. 

For me, I settled on a mini trax with alpine knots every six feet on a single 9.8mm static rope. It feeds the best and is simple and safe. 

If I have to escape the system, I clip a grigri in, clip a jumar in with a 120 sling, pull up on the grigri, stand on the jumar, unhook the trax and rap down.

Are you describing a TR setup in a forum post asking for Lead Solo advice? You should make that clear. Someone might get confused and hurt themselves.

Yep, to echo others, I use a grigri with a gridlock and have a microtrax on my haul loop to manage rope. I also added a bungee to my grigri and have it attached to a sling chest harness to keep it a bit higher. 

The soloist is my go to for rope solo lead.  Super solid construction. Lots of mileage on a soloist on lead with a fair amount of falls as well.  Totally comfortable with the soloist.  Prefer it actually to some belays :^)

+1 for the Soloist.   A bit heavy, but solid performance 

James Corbett wrote:

What are peoples opinion on the Rock Exotica Soloist?

It's worth noting that the soloist is not designed to catch an inverted fall. Not a big deal for some, but personally that's not a failure mode I'd want to worry about.

James Corbett wrote:

What are peoples opinion on the Rock Exotica Soloist?

It might very well be my most valued possession.

I've been using one for close to 30 years.

Jason EL wrote:

It might very well be my most valued possession.

I've been using one for close to 30 years.

How many falls have you taken on that device over that period of time?

Matthew Jaggers wrote:

How many falls have you taken on that device over that period of time?

Enough that the same thoughts have crossed my mind.

I usually use the Revo, but if it's not vertical or overhanging I'll us the grigri. I'm not opposed to stick clipping or aiding my way up tough stuff though. 

Taylor McKenzie wrote:

It's worth noting that the soloist is not designed to catch an inverted fall. Not a big deal for some, but personally that's not a failure mode I'd want to worry about.

Looking into this device for Aid Lead Solo'ing and this seems to be the big issue with it.  

This problem can be overcome with tying off knots below it as you ascend, right?

Not convenient but if it works (and I think that it should but I am not sure never having owned one or tried one) it is not too big a deal for Aid leading to tie off back up knots on the chance that you will take an inverted fall.

Thanks!

I just started a few weeks ago, but I've been using a revo and microtrax cache loop and love it! I took a few practice whips on it last week and it was pretty confidence inspiring

Clove hitch on HMS