Best ski boots for climbing?

10+ years ago, I did a number of climbs where I skied to the base, climbed in my ski boots, (carrying my skis) and then skied down to the valley.  

I was using ski boots that had marginal flexibility, no Dynafit "pins" and frame bindings.   They were really stiff, but worked well for straight forward front pointing.  These boots were not great for any other climbing techniques.    

Since ski boots have changed quite a bit in the last decade, I'm wondering what are the current best ski boots for winter alpine climbing, including mixed and climbing rock without crampons.  

Anyone have a favorite pair of ski boots that they've used successfully for these purposes?  

Pretty much anything in the SkiMo realm is that ticket, the lightest and fastest of which are likely something like the Arc'teryx proclines (granted they're not nearly as stiff as a big mountain boot), the Scarpa Aliens, or the Sportiva Stratos. All of those boots should climb fairly well (the range of motion in the Arc boots is pretty amazing, it feels like just wearing the lower of a ski boot with full ankle articulation in walk mode) and with good enough ankles should be able to descent just about anything if you don't plan on dropping any big cliffs or anything like that.

One thing I’ve seen happen climbing in AT boots is it’s easy to bugger up the pin bushings while rock climbing.  Hasn’t happened to me personally but I was with a guy one time that really mashed one of his. He could not keep his ski on after that. Made for a long stressful ski out as he kept losing a ski.

I used a classic Ramer binding on short skis on ice climb  approaches .

I'm kinda surprised there isn't an adapter to use for dynafit compatible bindings.  Something you could clip onto your boot.  Similar to the old Chouinard adapaters for climbing boots they made so you could use their cable telemark binding and ski for approaches.

The fittings for a pin binding are pretty simple:

And, really, for a purely approach ski, you wouldn't really need to keep the heel down.  Front end hardware only would be cheaper and lighter.

Maybe something like the CAST boot adapter, only removable from a climbing boot?

CAST boot adapter

I think people used to love the Dynafit TLT 5 for exactly what you describe. The forefoot had a small bellows that allowed for a bit of flex. Not as good for skiing but great for climbing. Idk if anyone makes something like that anymore. 

I’d rather scramble in ski boots than ski in mountain boots. Anyone who has done the latter knows it sucks. Sometimes I just take both. 

Interesting site:

dynafit mod to climbing boot

I've skied a fair bit in mountain boots.  Its a poor craftsman that blames his tools...ha ha.

Here in the Wasatch, there was a time when folks ski toured on tele gear but made mostly parallel turns.  Tele-llel or paramark or something.  Anyhow, when I figured it out (I remember that day with clarity), I spent a bunch of time skiing with my heels not attached and making standard parallel turns.  Made the transition to skiing with a mountaineering boot not that difficult, I'm guessing.  Especially after so much time ski touring in floppy leather boots.

I'd much rather climb in a climbing boot and do a little skiing on the approach and egress than the other way around.  For short routes or days, the ski boots climb ice fairly well.  

Forgive me: I don’t know shit about skiing. For say, easier skiing like to approach a climb, why does there not exist a way to ski in on climbing boots (like stiff ice climbing boots) ? Is there not an effective ski binding to work with mountaineering boots? 

Jack Yip wrote:

Pretty much anything in the SkiMo realm is that ticket, the lightest and fastest of which are likely something like the Arc'teryx proclines (granted they're not nearly as stiff as a big mountain boot), the Scarpa Aliens, or the Sportiva Stratos...

One disadvantage of super-light skimo race boots (below 900g or so) is that the shells and liners are quite thin. They don't stand up to a lot of abuse, and your feet can get cold when waiting at belays. 

A more versatile choice might be a lightweight touring boot (roughly 1000g to 1400g). They're more robust, warmer, perform better on the downhill, and since the liners are thicker it's easier to get a more comfortable fit. The Arc'teryx Procline would fall in that category, as would the now-discontinued Dynafit TLT5 and TLT6. Unfortunately the newer Dynafit TLT7 and TLT8 don't have a toe welt for step-in crampons. You have to use a Dynafit crampon adapter that fits into the binding insets, and reviews haven't been great.

This is a bit out of date, but here's a good overview of boot categories: www.wildsnow.com/11066/at-ski-backcountry-boot-buying-guide.

DeLa Cruce wrote:

Forgive me: I don’t know shit about skiing. For say, easier skiing like to approach a climb, why does there not exist a way to ski in on climbing boots (like stiff ice climbing boots) ? Is there not an effective ski binding to work with mountaineering boots? 

There are binding adapters but they are out of production and have mixed reviews. There are a couple recent threads come down to its easier to just carry ice boots than it is to make them work with ski bindings, and that it’s such a small market none of the big companies will bother.

Jack Yip wrote:

Pretty much anything in the SkiMo realm is that ticket, the lightest and fastest of which are likely something like the Arc'teryx proclines (granted they're not nearly as stiff as a big mountain boot), the Scarpa Aliens, or the Sportiva Stratos. All of those boots should climb fairly well (the range of motion in the Arc boots is pretty amazing, it feels like just wearing the lower of a ski boot with full ankle articulation in walk mode) and with good enough ankles should be able to descent just about anything if you don't plan on dropping any big cliffs or anything like that.

Agree with everything here. Except the proclines aren't skimo boots. More of an in between and in a completely different class of boot than an alien. Wait til you try a skimo race boot on :).

That said. I climbed WI5 in my (proper) skimo boots (atomic backland ultimates) for my first ever ice climb and felt like it definitely wasn't the boot holding me back. Summitted hood in my salomon x-alps and would have been the same story going up there in (proper) skimo boots.

DeLa Cruce wrote:

Forgive me: I don’t know shit about skiing. For say, easier skiing like to approach a climb, why does there not exist a way to ski in on climbing boots (like stiff ice climbing boots) ? Is there not an effective ski binding to work with mountaineering boots? 

Old Silvretta 404 with a crampon style toe bail. Don’t think they make them anymore. 

DeLa Cruce wrote:

Forgive me: I don’t know shit about skiing. For say, easier skiing like to approach a climb, why does there not exist a way to ski in on climbing boots (like stiff ice climbing boots) ? Is there not an effective ski binding to work with mountaineering boots? 

The stiffest ice climbing boot is still too flexible in the ankle to be a good ski boot. Anything more than an easy bunny slope and you're better of in ski boots. 

Here are some  Silvretta Binding for sale

rocknice2 wrote:

The stiffest ice climbing boot is still too flexible in the ankle to be a good ski boot. Anything more than an easy bunny slope and you're better of in ski boots.

A related problem is binding release. Ski bindings are designed to release in the event of a fall, so as to avoid ankle or leg injury. But the release mechanism only works reliably with stiff boots. With a relatively soft boot there's a much higher risk that the boot remains attached to the ski, and in a twisting fall you can be seriously injured.

Martin le Roux wrote:

A related problem is binding release. Ski bindings are designed to release in the event of a fall, so as to avoid ankle or leg injury. But the release mechanism only works reliably with stiff boots. With a relatively soft boot there's a much higher risk that the boot remains attached to the ski, and in a twisting fall you can be seriously injured.

Or, because the boot is soft, and especially if your heel isn't attached, you don't get injured.

That said, I broke my ankle skiing in Alaska on the Ruth Glacier with a pair of plastic climbing boots and a Silvretta 300 binding.  Slow twisting hard fall with a heavy pack.  Not sure any binding or boot combo would have prevented it.  Binding didn't release.  Should it have?  Probably not for that type of fall.  Not many bindings would release in that scenario.

Sure, ski bindings are designed to release...but...there's a fair amount of evidence from years of ski injuries to show that they sometimes don't.  To the point that there's a correlation with especially lower leg injuries and bindings not releasing.

Had a pretty hard fall last ski season.  Jumped off a short cliff at Snowbird on a powder day (ok, first mistake...!).  Stuck a ski tip.  Twisted hard on the back end of the fall and thought for sure I'd broke my foot.  Bruised heavily, but, not broken thankfully.  Pretty new alpine ski gear and a good pair of boots.  No release.  Would I be skiing like that in climbing boots?  No way.  Wouldn't be in the same ballpark.

So, I hope folks aren't looking for a ski boot for climbing or a climbing boot for a ski approach when if they're skiing a "bunny slope" at a ski area (or harder), they should just be on standard alpine (or tele) gear.  With regard to climbing...we're talking backcountry off piste skiing.  

Also...it helps to have some skiing skills...as in, really helps.  Not knowing how to ski then adding on a heavier climbing pack and a long day...recipe for disaster.

Good times...

Pick the boots that fits the objective. Some climbs would be hideous in a ski boot and some ski lines would be hideous in a mountain boot. You need ski setups for each. 

And learn to ski like Brian said. It’ll make skiing in mountains boots much more fun.

Not that I couldn't improve my skiing (a lot) but I'm skeptical that skiing in climbing boots will ever be fun. 

On eaaaaaasy terrain, it's way better than walking. But fun...?

I think I'm going to try the Arcteryx Proclines.  They seem to be the most climbing/mountaineering oriented ski boot currently available.  Maybe pair them with these wacky folding skis from Elan for times when I'm carrying them over.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gSRjdtdsGc

I like the fischer travers.

The boa closure over the top of the foot feels better for climbing for me vs. buckles over the instep.

jdejace wrote:

Not that I couldn't improve my skiing (a lot) but I'm skeptical that skiing in climbing boots will ever be fun. 

On eaaaaaasy terrain, it's way better than walking. But fun...?

If you can ski well enough it is fun. Advanced skiers can feel like an intermediate again