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Tamper Proof Nuts
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Can anyone tell me more about these? A friend sent me pics of an anchor he came across in Vedawoo and I’m fairly certain they’re some sort of tamper-proof nut, but I’ve never seen anything either them used before. I personally just use glue-ins an anchors where hanger theft would be an issue, but I’d guess glue-ins we’re less common when this anchor was installed.  He said this second one spun like a bearing:  |
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These could be useful in some areas but my question is how do you get the old bolt out when doing a rebolt job? |
RJ B wrote: imagine trying to find where you put that bit in 30 years. it’s got to be around here somewhere, oh no it don’t! |
petzl logic wrote: I don't see any grooves in the first one for a specialty bit, so I wonder if they are something like these breakaway conical nuts? https://www.mcmaster.com/conical-nuts/tamper-resistant-breakaway-nuts/ If so, some careful taps with a cold chisel in the direction of rotation may get it to budge. |
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The top photo looks like a Petzl long life bolt which they no longer make. It was a nail-driven style and it was hard to know how good it was. I have no idea about the ball bearing, looks like a home made solution! |
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Interesting. The bottom photo almost looks like a flush trim router bit. |
David House wrote: That was my initial thought, too- but you can see the dog point end and letter "D" indicating the wedge bolt length. |
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I’ve definitely seen these sprinkled around Vedauwoo and always wondered about them too. I’ve also encountered the weird not-quite-Petzl Long Life bolt (first photo) on top of a couple of ice routes around the San Juans and never felt great about them in the choss there. I’d also be curious to know what the story is with them. |
Stephen L wrote: I always trust bolts that are afixed with router bits! |
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I’d like to think the installer tightened them up with a normal nut first and then swapped in the breakaway after the fact. Seems fine to me if so. |
Gunkiemike wrote: Indeed! A nice Rockler round over bit inspired confidence for those runouts. |
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Maybe better stacked on a regular nut for strength. Maybe better than loctite for future servicabilty. |
Nathan E wrote: Yeah you're right, apparently the Petzl bolts had "long life" stamped on the collar. |
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i dont think its the anchor that is unique, only the nut to secure them. the first is a break away tamper resistant nut. it takes 36 foot lbs to break the nut off. an 18-8 stainless bolt takes 45 foot lbs to break. i know nothing about climbing so i don't know if it can be tighten with a regular nut first then put a breakaway on top of it and still be secure? you may not be getting much more than 30 fp on the nut as it is, i don't know. do you break many bolt head on the anchors? see the video the second picture has a collar on it with a break-away inside. these are often used with a regular nut or bolt and then a plug put in the hole and set with as hammer. see the link. pretty cool product. and yes, spins like a router bit. i'm pretty sure this is a "Go No GO security enclosure". i came across this thread running down the rabbit hole.. i like the design of the the bracket that is bolted down to the rock, i have another purpose for them. i thought if knowing what these are makes climbing a little safer for someone then why not leave a note. if this was already figured out ... my apologies hope that helps. Good luck and stay safe... https://www.fastenright.com/security-fasteners/no-go-security-enclosures/ng01 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfaPuBTJvpI https://www.asknumbers.com/foot-pound-to-inch-pound.aspx#:~:text=1%20Foot%2Dpound%20(ft%2D,lbs%20is%209%20ft%2Dlbs. |
