What is the Greatest 5.6 in the World?

Ackley The Improved wrote:

The title of this thread says nothing about beginner climbers, If by greatest, you mean least objective challenges there is probably a gym some where with some sweet 5.6 moves that doesn’t require a long hike, have loose rock, mosquitos, or be out of cell range.

Actually, that’s the opposite of what is being discussed here, but thanks anyways for your unsolicited derision. My initial point in the OP is that it is pretty amazing that such a high quality climb as Cathedral is as accessible as it is. As others have pointed out, other routes that are probably better exist, but they’re more difficult to get to and come down from.

Someone else mentioned the Forbidden-Torment Traverse, which looks absolutely brilliant. Seems like it should go in the category of “awesome, but with some accessibility concerns.” Snow travel/traversing/climbing is, again, more difficult than a footpath. Then again, could (and probably does) add to the experience for more skilled climbers.

Edit: Just FYI, reading the title is not a good way of understanding a thesis, the thread isn’t about beginner climbers anyway. Feels like there should be an idiom to describe this irritating habit people seem to have...

Ackley The Improved wrote:

(Not for California 5.6 fair weather climbers).

Hey there guy, I saw a cloud the other day !!

Doctor Drake, seems The Tree Route would meet your accessibility criteria perfectly. A short walk from the lot. Yes the middle pitches are the best crack climbing, but most of the route is engaging somewhere near the 5.6 grade! Even the last pitch has you smearing some 5.6 slab. The first pitch you get a low angle crack to start and then you hand jam between the rock and a tree. How cool.

The first time I went to the Cascades and saw the glaciers it absolutely blew my doors off. Just my own personal opinion, I don't see the extra hiking/glacier travel/whatever as an accessibility concern. Just more time to spend in the mountains and drink it all in !!

PS. Ackley The Improved, you hit the nail on the head with the post about North Peak, north ridge ----> Mt Conness, north ridge linkup. Great post. This is also a phenomenal day out and to me, adds even further to the mystique of Conness. Check out this guy, just pullin a few 5.6 moves by the notch on the north ridge of Conness !!

Didn't read the whole thread, but for a single pitch, I'd vote Norma's Book at the City.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105740948/normas-book

5.6 routes I have climbed that are equal or better than SE Buttress of Cathedral:

South pillar of Fresno Dome

Tree route on Dome rock

The Grack on Glacier point

West ridge of Mt. Conness

Kain route Bugaboo Spire

West ridge of Pigeon Spire (5.4)

NE buttress of Ha Ling

I live in California so am biased and I have not climbed in Europe. I suspect we are missing many classics in the Alps

I think it's a bit American-centric and California-centric to claim that Cathedral Peak is the best 5.6 in the world with so many contenders listed in this thread.

At this point I feel like it’s pretty obvious that Cathedral isn’t THE best, but one of the best, so I edited the OP and title appropriately. Obviously I’m being CA-centric, because as I detailed in the OP, I’ve barely climbed outside of the Sierra and thought the wealth of knowledge here could share some alternatives, with an excessive amount of attitude, as usual.

Cory, you say they’re equal or better, yet give no examples or evidence. Why do think they’re that good? I believe you, but it’s interesting and helpful to others if you engage a little bit more and explain. 

Doctor Drake wrote:

At this point I feel like it’s pretty obvious that Cathedral isn’t THE best, but one of the best, so I edited the OP and title appropriately. Obviously I’m being CA-centric, because as I detailed in the OP, I’ve barely climbed outside of the Sierra and thought the wealth of knowledge here could share some alternatives, with an excessive amount of attitude, as usual.

Right? It's like the folks in this post have never talked to a Californian, or even an American. When a Californian says "in the world" they mean "in California." Just like all us Americans mean "in America." And when we say "ever," we mean "in the last 150 years or so." It's just a cultural translation thing. 

My definition of climbing greatness would be how great you feel at the end of the climb and how memorable it all was. Overcoming challenges is a big part of that. Approaches canbe a feature.

It's just a cultural translation thing.

No its an experience thing. Most Americans have never been anywhere but America and most of them have never been or climbed outside their home areas, or now, gyms. Its no indictment, this country is huge! Many of us Californians are the sorts who will not give a star rating to a climb we've never done, color us prejudiced! Me, I am traveled but even still I have not climbed extensively all over the world. I don't know the great 5.6s of the Alps, or anywhere else. Its for those folks to speak up. As a Californian why would I assert the greatest 5.6 in Colorado if I hadn't sampled it? That's for Colorado climbers to assert not me :)

But I still like to celebrate the grand but technically easy rock climbs, like many others in this thread, where ever they may be located. Like that great Stone Mtn NC route I did a few decades ago - stuck with me all those years. I don't know from what about best anyway.

Can't vouch for the Alps much, but there are several great British candidates lurking in the pages of Ken Wilson's Classic Rock (1978).

I’ll add my vote to ddrvier about the Comici Arete on Torre Piccolo de Falzarago.  Seven pitches of classic exposed climbing with great rock. Reasonable approach, and an overhanging free rappel to end it.  What could be better.  Also, another Dolomite Classic is The Thumb on Punta Della Cinque Dita.  Nine pitches of nearly vertical rock, on an exposed arete, with six 25 meter raps back to the place you changed shoes.  Right on top of a great refugio for snacks and a tram ride back to the car. I could go on with more Grade IV (5.6)  Dolomite routes that are just unreal compared to some mentioned here.  

I never understood the love for Solar Slab.  Sandy, sun-backed, need to climb another route to get to and a horrible down climb gully.  Wolfs Head is a classic and deserves all the respect it gets.  Somewhere between 5 and 20 pitches on how you do it.  So is the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire, but I have only down climbed it and it seemed like not a lot of real climbing on it.  Haven’t done Cathedral, but its on the short list now.

RKM wrote:

I never understood the love for Solar Slab.  Sandy, sun-backed, néed to climb another route to get to and a horrible down climb gully.  

The vast majority don't downclimb the gully - they rappel it. I haven't heard of it being downclimbed, but I suppose you could (or double-rope rappels down the face, thereby completely avoiding the gully).

I assume you are referring to Solar Slab Gully?

Ackley The Improved wrote:

My definition of climbing greatness would be how great you feel at the end of the climb and how memorable it all was. Overcoming challenges is a big part of that. Approaches canbe a feature.

My personal ethos completely agrees.

Updated list in the OP! I'm curious what Frank's favorite 5.6 is :)

Doctor Drake wrote:

My personal ethos completely agrees.

Updated list in the OP! I'm curious what Frank's favorite 5.6 is :)

One of the following:

• Solar Slab
• West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
• West Ridge of Mt. Conness
• SE Buttress - Cathedral Peak

Before writing off Solar Slab do it this way:  start on Johnny Vegas (instead of Solar Slab gully) and do the 5.9 variation.  Next, by pass the first two pitches on Solar Slab by going up Going Nuts. 

Cathedral Peak is worth climbing for the view from the top alone.  And Wolf's Head, now there is a real classic.  Not a classic, but a pretty good 5.6 is the Regular Route on Slick Rock in McCall, Idaho. Good place to practice every type of gear placement (bring those hexes and tricams) as well as crack climbing technique.  Do it fast and then rap down to do the last 4 pitches on the Memorial Route, really good 5.8 slab with options to make it a little harder if desired. 

Good morning Idaho Bob. Nice to see you around here.

Idaho Bob wrote:

Before writing off Solar Slab do it this way:  start on Johnny Vegas (instead of Solar Slab gully) and do the 5.9 variation.  Next, by pass the first two pitches on Solar Slab by going up Going Nuts. 

Cathedral Peak is worth climbing for the view from the top alone.  And Wolf's Head, now there is a real classic.  Not a classic, but a pretty good 5.6 is the Regular Route on Slick Rock in McCall, Idaho. Good place to practice every type of gear placement (bring those hexes and tricams) as well as crack climbing technique.  Do it fast and then rap down to do the last 4 pitches on the Memorial Route, really good 5.8 slab with options to make it a little harder if desired. 

That's exactly how I'm planning to do Solar Slab when I finally get out there. A bit of harder climbing to keep it not boring and then just a fun romp to the top! Glad someone can confirm it's a good alternative.

I heard about Slick Rock for the first time only a couple weeks ago and the Regular Route looks like a great outing to get acquainted with the area. Thanks for sharing!

Best 5.6 in the world!? That's a tall order. There are fantastic climbs at this light rating just about everywhere where there are rocks. I started on Tahquitz Rock here in Southern California, but over the fifty some years, climbed a lot of those routes mentioned above, plus some..But at the end, we all come back to where we started, so I would humbly suggest two Tahquitz 5.6. The Left Ski Track and The West (original) NE Face route. Both are great climbs at 5.6 (original TDS, Tahquitz Decimal System, later YDS rating)

West Ridge of Forbidden is completely spectacular, but a typical 5.6 climber would probably be in waaay over their head on the whole experience. That said, I think it's arguable the best routes of just about any grade are going to require commitment beyond what their grades suggest because of that combination of things that make the best routes better.

If we're giving points for accessibility and position, the Cosmiques Arete deserves a nomination. Yeah, you have to know how to climb on snow, but it's trivially easy snow climbing and the rock climbing parts really aren't harder than 5.6, at least by Yosemite standards. Guided tourists with basically no climbing experience do it all the time. The position is pretty much unmatched.

I haven't done this, but wow, it looks like it should be a contender: mountainproject.com/route/1… (Piz Badile northeast ridge).

Dylan Colon wrote:

West Ridge of Forbidden is completely spectacular, but a typical 5.6 climber would probably be in waaay over their head on the whole experience. That said, I think it's arguable the best routes of just about any grade are going to require commitment beyond what their grades suggest because of that combination of things that make the best routes better.

Yup.

I haven't done this, but wow, it looks like it should be a contender: mountainproject.com/route/1… (Piz Badile northeast ridge).

That looks sick. I’ll look into it more, thanks!

A British friend of mine did the NE Ridge of Badile to learn the descent for their later (successful) ascent of the famed Cassin Route last year. He thought the NE Ridge was fabulous and worthy climb on its own.