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What does your Woody look like??? 2.0

Karl Walters · · San Diego · Joined May 2017 · Points: 106

bouldering pads

Eric K · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 45

Cheapest and best home solution I've seen is bouldering pads with mattresses underneath them. Depending on the size of your wall you may need a lot of bouldering pads though, when I broke down cost per sq ft a mix of my own pads and storing friends pads was the best option for me. Madrock triples connect together really well and make for a good options for small walls.

Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 96
https://www.thefoamfactory.com/blog/index.php/climb-higher-with-confidence-using-bouldering-crash-pads
Comments are good as well in that article. Foam is just flat out expensive but I used the 6" lux and the 1.5" 2.2lb closed cell polyethylene mentioned in that article for our home wall and really like it. Still pricey but way cheaper than the Asana drag pads.
Cyrille M · · Sylmar · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

For those who used the 4 prongs T nuts, what brand/specific glue would you recommend? 

Eric K · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 45

How is that lattice setup? Is it practical for regular use?

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Julian H wrote: Needs more holds

Did you drill out the hole on the rock rings to make it fit the bolts?hows it working? I have a couple rock rings that I’m not using and could mount this on my wall.

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,023
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Julian H wrote: Yes I drilled two more holds in the pockets. There is already one in the big pocket. The outside edges on the hit strips are not that ergonomic and the cut into my tendons. I’ll grind then down and make then more difficult too. They might work better on the steeper wall. 

So did you use a t-nut bolt or just treat them like a big screw-on?

bridge · · Gardiner, NY · Joined May 2016 · Points: 80

A bit more rigging, need to put a coat of polyurethane on the ply, and waiting on mats, but it's getting close!  Adjustable from 30-45 degrees.

Thanks to Schyluer for sharing information on his build.  I used a similar approach (though with pulleys and fabricated steel brackets).  

The 800 lb. hand winch is super smooth and "only" cost me $60 on Amazon.  Highly recommended for those considering an electric hoist.

Cyrille M · · Sylmar · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0
Just missing the kickboard. Couldn’t wait so I started placing holds! 8ft tall and 12ft wide at 25°. Kickboard will be around 10 inches. 
Jos Yule · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

Got it up this past weekend. 8’ x 12’ climbing wall, 75*. Bought 20lbs random Element holds to start with.  Super fun!! Still need to find some crash pads...

Karl Walters · · San Diego · Joined May 2017 · Points: 106
as of yesterday
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Latest set of the 45.
DannyJ · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 95

12' wide by 11' tall @ 40 degrees. The hardest part about this build was removing a 50 year old pipe that ran across the ceiling. 
Eric K · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 45

Nice!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Built this hexagon volume over the weekend and just put it up.  Nice way to add some variety on the horizontal roof.
Dustin K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0
Tal Wanish wrote:

Dustin (or anyone else who's done this) - how do you like having the intermediate cracks in your wall? I talked to a guy on facebook a while back who had a hand crack intermediate in his wall and he said ever since he did it it's become a staple on every wall he builds - he loves it. I'd love to do something similar - but am not sure the best way to frame the crack in a way to keep it stable. Any recommendation?

I love having them.  It's been an awesome addition and allows me to create unique moves with the cracks and also train for when I go out west.  I live in PA and there isn't much crack.  However I did make the smaller crack my anti-size and I can barely pull my ass off the ground.  If you want I can post pictures of how I framed them out.  They both don't budge.  One more thing to note, they never get in the way of setting so they aren't an inconvenience.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Dustin K wrote:

I love having them.  It's been an awesome addition and allows me to create unique moves with the cracks and also train for when I go out west.  I live in PA and there isn't much crack.  However I did make the smaller crack my anti-size and I can barely pull my ass off the ground.  If you want I can post pictures of how I framed them out.  They both don't budge.  One more thing to note, they never get in the way of setting so they aren't an inconvenience.

I would definitely be psyched to see how you did it also 

TBlom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 360
Tal Wanish wrote: Question for you guys, starting to look at planning out the home wall. Planning for a 10" kicker and then a 8'x10-11' climbing area (still haven't made the call, will either be 8'x~9'9" or 8'x~10'11", shown is 10'2"). Will have a ~0.75" finger crack at one third width and a 1.75" hand crack at two thirds width. Would this be enough for framing or do I need to run additional vertical supports down each third? Without those vertical supports it's ~30.25" OC, with them it would be half that obviously. 2x6s for framing all around (except the 4x4s visible).

You should build at 16" OC, and consider running either a few full width 2x4's or ply for bracing as shown in the last post.  As shown, the wall will probably sag in the middle eventually.

Phil Sakievich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 131
Tal Wanish wrote: Question for you guys, starting to look at planning out the home wall. Planning for a 10" kicker and then a 8'x10-11' climbing area (still haven't made the call, will either be 8'x~9'9" or 8'x~10'11", shown is 10'2"). Will have a ~0.75" finger crack at one third width and a 1.75" hand crack at two thirds width. Would this be enough for framing or do I need to run additional vertical supports down each third? Without those vertical supports it's ~30.25" OC, with them it would be half that obviously. 2x6s for framing all around (except the 4x4s visible).

Probably not. You’ve essentially got 4x6’s for the crack sections if you support them with spacers. If not then you will need to have something stitching them together on the back as noted by the previous post. Also for your 1.75 hand crack you might consider making those out of 2x8 or 2x10’s. Unless you have really big hands you will likely want more surface area to replicate the feeling of jamming a hand crack. 2x6’s dimensions are actually 1.5x5.5 inches and your fingers and hands will likely stick out the back of the crack. 

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