Buying an Alpine Rope
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Wanted to get some advice on whether or not a rope I'm looking at is a good buy. |
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I would go with either a triple rated rope such as the mammut serenity or the edelrid swift protect pro. Or a set of twins ropes about 8mm in diameter. |
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Eww - $187 is a horrible price. Heck no. Not a "sale". |
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Is it a dedicated alpine/snow travel rope? Then I would want twins or like a 9.0 (9.0 for weight savings twins for safety or weight savings using only 1 twin on snow travel) |
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I think you could go a bit thinner than 9.5mm. I've been using the triple-rated 60m Beal Opera 8.5mm Golden Dry for glacier travel, multi-pitch alpine rock, and ice climbing for a few years now and have been very happy with it. Looks like it's 25% off at Moosejaw (and probably other places) right now. |
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Dude(s), thanks for the feedback. |
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Note that the Beal Joker is 52 g/m at 9.1mm and the Edelrid Swift Pro Dry and Tendon Master are both the same 52 g/m at 8.9mm rating. Go by g/m when comparing weight and even "size". |
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+1 for the beal opera. there is dry (sheath) and golden dry (core and sheath). |
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When I think alpine rope i think using just one of my half ropes, if its easy use it like a single, when it gets hard fold it in half and use two strands. but it all depends though.def wouldnt head for the hulk with a setup like that. but def on a big ridge traverse. |
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What are some examples of routes you'd like to do? If routes are wandering, half rope system is really nice. You can use a doubled over triple-rated rope but you'll be limited to 30 meter pitches. You can also carry just one half or twin rope and double it over but again you'll only be able to climb and rap pitches that are half the rope length. If you're likely to be doing lots of rappels, it's nice to have two ropes for longer raps. Yes, you can pair a skinny single with a light tag line and save some weight over a half rope system, but rappeling is a bit more complex and if you get your dynamic rope stuck it can be a bit problematic if your tag is static. Yes, you'll probably spend more for two ropes than for one, but a half rope system is way more versatile and I think you'd get more from that than from getting a skinnier single-only rope like the one you linked. |
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Sterling nano iX 9.0mm 60m dryXP IS THE BEST ALPINE/light rock/snow rope |
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Eliot Hack wrote: Sterling nano iX 9.0mm 60m dryXP IS THE BEST ALPINE/light rock/snow rope I’ve got it in 50M. Love it. |
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If you decide to go with half ropes, consider two 50m. Saves a bit of weight and 50m is a nice length for Glacier travel. Sometimes go on sale for less than $100 each. |
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What do you actually want to do with this rope? Alpine is many different things to many different people a sub 9mm won't last if you're doing allot of steep granite rock climbing but you wouldn't want to bring a 60m 9.5 just for glacier travel and some light scrambling, for that you'd just have a single half rope. |
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Matt N wrote: I just got this in 50M for short/easy sport and alpine stuff and I was genuinely surprised at how light it is. Haven't used it yet TBH but it does feel good. And not expensive. |
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If you're going to be dragging this on a glacier in the summer, you want a really dry rope. I thought all UIIA ropes were now required to absorb no more than 5% of their weight when submerged for X?? long. |
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Robert Hall wrote: I thought all UIIA ropes were now required to absorb no more than 5% of their weight when submerged for X?? long. It's an optional standard plenty of manufacturers sell "Dry" treated ropes that don't conform or haven't been tested to the standard, generally for a cheaper price too. |
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Victor Machtel wrote: Don't expect it to last long if you're using it for any real amount of rock climbing I trashed one in just 2 months of climbing in chamonix. |
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that guy named seb wrote: YMMV. My Beal Joker lasted two winters of Hyalite ice climbing, two desert seasons, a trip to Patagonia, and a whole lot of alpine rock climbing around Montana. I’ve chopped a bit off one end. And I still climb on it. There really aren’t that many “bad” climbing ropes out there any more. Get one that fits your specs, is reasonably priced, and the length you want. The rope isn’t going to make the difference between you summiting or not. |
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that guy named seb wrote: I was indeed not planning to use it for anything on serious rock. Maybe some easy sport when no other rope is available but definitely not going to use it redlining. |
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I've gone through two Beal jokers, one trad climbing in 6 months (no falls) and the other in cham in 2 months (lots of rappelling but not falls) and I've heard similar reports from others who've had one. Just a really fragile mantle. |