Pull ups vs grade climbed?

I'd put up with a lot for good Pumpkin pie!

What I have learned is that its all in the technique. You can get to redpointing 5.12 with little upper body strength if you have decent technique (able to climb as efficiently as possible), moderate forearm endurance and able to recover reasonably well at a rest stance (a skill in itself). ARC training is great to develop these skills and strengths. To advance beyond 5.12, in my experience, strength training is required.

Just banged out 14 cold and straight off my ass.  Yay injuries.
Have led 10 sport, up to 9+ trad.  Technique is garbage (or improving, depending on metal state) and I get pumped/overworked very easily.

Fiance can do zero pullups, 2 maybe 3 assisted.  Can lead 11 sport and 5.9 trad. She dances up 11+ on TR, and I've belayed her on a 12 where she hung three times.  In her hayday she was leading solid 12 and competition climbing.

Her balance and technique are impeccable and I learn something from her every time we go out.  I presume pullups mean nothing up to a point, but sure do help when you're flailing and struggling to find a foot and then you miraculously find a good hold and are able to then just crank on it. She calls it dude bro climbing. 

I dunno man. Her pumpkin pie was pretty on point.

You don't need to tell us about your grandma's pie, we've all had it "on point."

I'd put up with a lot for good Pumpkin pie!

White privilage at its worst.

Wayne Curr wrote:
You don't need to tell us about your grandma's pie, we've all had it "on point."

White privilage at its worst.

Who hurt you? Keep your divisive racist remarks to yourself...and learn how to spell. 0/10

What if this thread was started for the troll tryouts and we'll never get the data?

Ty Gilroy wrote:

Who hurt you? Keep your divisive racist remarks to yourself...and learn how to spell. 0/10

Is it racist? He’s pretty incomprehensible. Definitely angry.

Joe Trabucco wrote: Bet no one on this thread can do 10x proper and controlled pull-ups. Bet.  

Was gonna take your bet....but “proper and controlled” was a killer

Pulls Ups = 0
Climbing = 11c Slab

(Dont use this BS data.  I'll take the survey)

Wayne Curr wrote:
You don't need to tell us about your grandma's pie, we've all had it "on point."

White privilage at its worst.

Be cool honey bunny

This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.

I'm not reading the entire thread of 7 pages, so sorry if this is already posted.

Lattice training, based in the UK, already uses Pull-Ups as one factor for determining a climber's overall climbing ability. Combined with Lattice's other tests, which are extensive, "20 wide grip pull-ups done with knees and thighs at 90 degrees, consecutively without stopping, in 1 minute, puts you in a 5.14- range of route climbing."
- If you can do 20 pull-ups, you definitely have plenty of 'pull strength' to climb mid 5.13. Work on everything else, haha.

As discussed by others, there are multiple factors that contribute to climbing ability other than anaerobic pull strength (i.e. finger strength, body type, flexibility, mental game, diet, lifestyle, etc.).

For determining climbing ability based on extremely simple tests, finger-to-weight strength is much more accurate than pull ups. Being able to hang 1 handed from a 20mm edge, with one arm, with bodyweight, for 7-10 seconds, generally puts a climber into a V10 range of climbing.

Route climbing is more difficult to estimate abilities using simple tests, because route climbing requires many skill sets, applied over longer periods of time.

Regardless, I think that most people should get over the idea that "Good Climbers" are "just specially built people." This is nonsense, however, some people will always have to work harder for equal results, as in any aspect of life.  With dedication, and perhaps coaching, most people could climb modern 5.13- sport routes.

I don't know if Lynn Hill actually said it, but along with some minimal other factors, the mind is 100% the final arbiter between 5.13+ and 5.14 climbers.

EDIT: I can do 20 pull-ups consecutively in 1 minute. I am working on redpointing 5.13d and 5.14a.

Edit #2:       5.13d AND 5.14a

Jcburgart wrote: 
I don't know if Lynn Hill actually said it, but along with some minimal other facors, the mind is 100% the final arbiter between 5.13+ and 5.14 climbers.

EDIT: I can do 20 pullups consecutively in 1 minute. I am working on redpointing 5.13d and 5.14a.

Why waste your time on 13d? Go right to the 14s, because there's no physical difference between the two grades.

Artem Vasilyev wrote: Define "proper and controlled".

Edit: just did the most proper and controlled pullups I could imagine myself doing. (I.e. wide front grip - moving as slow as I can without any explosive movements and through the full range of motion - so from a full hang on completely extended arms to touching chest to bar)

Only getting 8 done before failure. Somebody else in this thread needs to put the team on their back!

If you're really moving as slow as you can, how can you even manage to do one?  Try to move 1 mm / second 

Jc got me to thinking.  
I like the spin way better if I say I’m trying to redpoint 5.14a versus I can climb 5.11 ....

I’m also trying to bring my relationship with Jenna Dewan to the next level

Mark Pilate wrote:
I’m also trying to bring my relationship with Jenna Dewan to the next level

Which I'm guessing is at a pretty low level. But hey, gotta start somewhere.

Matthew Bertolatus wrote: Wish I could find the source, but I recall reading a more robust analysis of high level climbers showed the best correlation between bouldering high grades (9+) and 'exercise' was the ability to hangboard something like 8 seconds on a 16mm edge [don't quote me, point is it's about finger strength not looking good at the beach]. 

Isn't that a central theory of Lattice training?

I suck at pull ups and I suck at climbing. Submitted 

I'd put up with a lot for good Pumpkin pie!

White privilage at its worst.

Keep your decisive racist commemts to yourself

So you'd put up with racist comments for good punkin pie, but calling out white privilege is divisive and racist? Oh wait, you're that guy who got all outraged/conspiracy theory crazy because social distancing is actually working in your town and you haven't personally seen enough cases to convince you. Makes scents.

Wayne Curr wrote:
White privilage at its worst.

So you'd put up with racist comments for good punkin pie, but calling out white privilege is divisive and racist? Oh wait, you're that guy who got all outraged/conspiracy theory crazy because social distancing is actually working in your town and you haven't personally seen enough cases to convince you. Makes scents.

Buddy. Try yoga. Great stress reliever. Life is too short