Rock fall, Jah Man, Sister Superior

Mark Howe wrote: The red line in the 1st photo should show the traverse on the next horizontal strata feature ~15' higher...& the finger crack ~4-5' farther left. 

Corrected, fat fingers on a phone

Looks like Eiger north wall conditions up there.

Was on my short list. Anxious to see what the route might look like now. Thanks for posting Greg.

Matt Pierce wrote: Was on my short list. Anxious to see what the route might look like now. Thanks for posting Greg.

Well, per the information above, it now goes with a loose but “moderate” .12c approach pitch. 

the schmuck wrote:

Well, per the information above, it now goes with a loose but “moderate” .12c approach pitch. 

I'll never be a 5.12 climber ;)

the schmuck wrote:

Well, per the information above, it now goes with a loose but “moderate” .12c approach pitch. 

Yeah, on what planet is 5.12 "moderate"?

Marc801 C wrote:

Yeah, on what planet is 5.12 "moderate"?

Moderate 5.12c is much different than Difficult 5.12c - it's like a totally different world. You probably wouldn't understand. Also just because there is one very serious deathblock on that 12c pitch doesn't mean that this pitch is runout or dangerous - you just have to be careful to not die, maim, or kill others. It's no big deal, really. How things go in the desert. 

Someone should go booty hunting back behind there. I bet there is some gear to score. 

“Sister Superior Base Southwest Elevation Info: Green line indicates terrain climbed to anchor formerly gained by climbing the 1st chimney pitch.” 

Mark Howe wrote:

“Sister Superior Base Southwest Elevation Info: Green line indicates terrain climbed to anchor formerly gained by climbing the 1st chimney pitch.” 

Yikes that whole face on looker's right looks about to blow.

Mark Howe wrote:

“Sister Superior Base Southwest Elevation Info: Green line indicates terrain climbed to anchor formerly gained by climbing the 1st chimney pitch.” 

Nice photo Mark - wow there is a lot still happening on that right side. 

“Jah Man Base Clean Up: Jan. 28, 2020
Green Line: 5.10 (Original initial moves to start) Cleaned/ loose chock stones up high removed.
Blue Line: TR'd @ 5.10 (Cleaned/ 1st 20' still dirty)
Black Line: TR'd @ 5.11+ (Cleaned/ 1st 20' still dirty)
Yellow Line: TR'd @ 5.11
Red Line: TR'd @ 5.12”

Is the 5.11/5.12 section splitter enough to be reasonable to aid cleanly in order to link up the rest of the pitches closer to the original 5.10 grade? 5.10+ C1 would still be pretty reasonable for most desert climbers.

Mark P Thomas wrote: Is the 5.11/5.12 section splitter enough to be reasonable to aid cleanly in order to link up the rest of the pitches closer to the original 5.10 grade? 5.10+ C1 would still be pretty reasonable for most desert climbers.

-This is not an attempt to make a determination as to what is or is not "reasonable for most desert climbers".-  

FWIW: A hook move (Logan) to a less-than good cam placement was employed across the yellow lined traverse where the crack closes for a few feet. That was the crux of the aiding- everything else is solid cam placements.That might bump it to C-2 based on the Clean Aid Rating System. The traverse is .5 through #2 Camalots and about 30' long. Whomever is seconding would benefit from being familiar with the nuances of cleaning a traverse. The traverse and the finger crack are overhanging so if the leader or follower lost the ability to reach the traversing crack they would likely have to ascend the rope or be hauled to regain the crack or lower off to the ground. The calcite finger crack is .3's, .4's & .5 to the anchor. Above that point you are back on the original line.