Beginner Question: Bolt/rivet hanger recommendations and use?

kevin deweese wrote:

Are you thinking that rivet hangers are only for rivets?

 No. I prefer the Yates or equivalent  rivet hangers on studs because of there adjustability for rivets or studs.  I miss understood and thought suggestions were more along the lines of keyhole rivet type hangers. 

Kinda surprised no one has mentioned just bringing the appropriate size threaded nut for the bolts and some normal hangers.  If I am remembering correctly Tangerine Trip use to have threaded 1/4” studs.  I had 5-10 nuts and small hangers I used.  I’ve also had to do the same on some weird polish route down in Venezuela.  They were taking the hangers off and using them higher on the route (to lower costs.)  I had to put my own on as I went.  

Robert Rowsam wrote:

1. The only butterfly ones I've used are homemade, but look pretty much the same as the runout ones I've seen. 

2. I'm talking about getting the wire loop over a standard bolt hanger. You climb much mud? Its pretty common to find bolts sticking out a couple inches and it feels a bit better to tie it off somehow than to just clip the hanger on the end. I'm not trying to argue, maybe I have just bought shit rivet hangers. When I did the kingfisher I didn't even know what rivet hangers were and tied off all the bolts and studs with slings.

1. As I said. If you're making your own, make sure to create a few with different size loops for the eye. (and don't forget to keep checking the go-no-go! - I have a sign above my workstation saying as much because I know I won't if I don't have a reminder.) 

2. OP specifically said studs with no hangers. If it's a stud hanging out with a hanger to appropriate technique is to girth a sling between the hanger and the wall (Or a nut slid over the hanger if slings are not available) because ain't no rivet hanger worth using is going to have an eye that large.  Remember to short tie the sling so you don't lose height/reach when you're on it.

Gavin Bridgeman wrote:

 No. I prefer the Yates or equivalent  rivet hangers on studs because of there adjustability for rivets or studs.  I miss understood and thought suggestions were more along the lines of keyhole rivet type hangers. 

Makes sense. Experience from multiple sources in Yosemite have actually shown that the keyhole rivet hangers (both the flat with a sharp bend version (Moses style) and the thinned curved ones (Leeper? Pika?))have a prying effect upon the stud/rivet when they take a fall. I would imagine in sandstone this effect is magnified in terms of it's effect on the stud and surrounding rock. 

Despite the difference in safety between keyhole and wire rivet hangers, I tend to use keyhole (because you can reach higher with them) when i'm progressing/drilling and then replace them with wire once i'm off of them.

kevin deweese wrote:

 (Or a nut slid over the hanger if slings are not available) because ain't no rivet hanger worth using is going to have an eye that large.  Remember to short tie the sling so you don't lose height/reach when you're on it.

This was all I was trying to say. I know the OP was talking about hangerless bolts, I was just adding that there are bolts with hangers on route that may need to be slung with nuts. Sorry for any confusion