anybody repeat Jim Beyer’s routes?

Dude is rating his routes A5+ and A6, what’s the story? Makes me think back to Kalous’ aid climbing rant haha

Richard Jensen had a trip report plus why he downgraded Intifada, but I can't find a live version anymore. It wasn't kind.

i repeated one of his el cap routes. It was graded A5, but I felt it was more like a6+ m4 wi3 5.10 e9 v4.

Jim Beyer is a running joke inflating the grades of his climbs, route vandal and sociopath.

Probably a compliment for a mud nailer.

It has been reliably reported that Jim has voiced hope that people would die on his routes.

I try to make routes that are fun and durable. He does not.

Ironically, and to my chagrin people have died on my routes.

Does he really exist HA! Never seen A photo they say he's A big Guy?

Hans LaCasse wrote: Does he really exist HA! Never seen A photo they say he's A big Guy?

He’s shorter than I, and I’m shorter than I was. And I was of average height. 

I can't speak to his big wall routes but he has been bolting around here lately and his routes are of the lowest quality. Sport routes on the choss rock in the canyon. Chain for hangers on the bolts, bolts not set anywhere close to proper. No one climbs them.
I could post pics but they are already on the site and every time I post them the Beyer faithful send me crazy emails. 

I've repeated some of his routes in the Pinnacles from the 70s - they were good adventures.

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Jim Beyer is a running joke inflating the grades of his climbs, route vandal and sociopath.

Probably a compliment for a mud nailer.

Nice slam. How many of his routes have you repeated?

Just remember, this is the guy who bragged on Supertopo about running down a mountain biker for fun, and driving over her bike when she didn't move it out of the way fast enough. Did he stop? No, he drove off laughing. Swell guy.

the schmuck wrote: Just remember, this is the guy who bragged on Supertopo about running down a mountain biker for fun, and driving over her bike when she didn't move it out of the way fast enough. Did he stop? No, he drove off laughing. Swell guy.

That’s right here on MP:

Beyer

Team that repeated his Heading Towards Oblivion route on Leaning Tower considered it hard but super contrived, avoiding obvious weaknesses and feature for sketchy drilling and hooking. Did not find any boobytrapping on that route.

Dude puts up routes with multiple "A4/+" rivet ladders (Wild World on Liberty Cap) His topo indicates that he uses 5/16" x 3/4" or x 1" machine heads or 1/4"x 3/4" zmacs or 1/4"x1.5" button heads for his rivets. I place similar rivets on my routes (well not the zmacs, my partner places those no matter how much I yell at him) and those will catch a fall no problem (Plaidman can attest to this) so unless his rating is based upon his assessment of his inability to place rivets properly then I'm not sure how anyone with their head on straight would think that a ladder of that gear could even be A2 let alone A4+

And Dude def exists, Tom pointed him out to me in the valley when he was glassing El Cap in advance of his Hamas Fights for Freedom route. Heard a story from a reliable source about talking with Beyer about climbing and mentioning that it may not have been the most diplomatic thing to chop bolts on Wall of Early Morning Light and said that Beyer got super angry at the mere thought of someone questioning his actions that he had his fists balled up and ready to fight before the subject was changed quickly.

NegativeK wrote: Richard Jensen had a trip report plus why he downgraded Intifada, but I can't find a live version anymore. It wasn't kind.

I recall reading that. Looks like his site has vanished, but there is some related discussion here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/231645/Intfada

Archive.org copy of Jensen's Intifada trip report - https://web.archive.org/web/20160311224540/ jensenconsultations.com/cli… 

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Jim Beyer is a running joke inflating the grades of his climbs, route vandal and sociopath.

Probably a compliment for a mud nailer.

Repeat a few of his routes (or even a single route) and get back to us.  There was an interesting article about him in Climbing back in the day.  I'll agree that his ratings appear intended to generate discussion but, as Jeremy pointed out upthread, the quality and difficulty of many of his routes speaks for itself. 

m Mobes wrote:

Nice slam. How many of his routes have you repeated?

Weird, everything I stated has been corroborated by others in this thread. 

You gotta ask yourself: Why the fuck would I want to repeat one of his obscure choss piles? I slam Richard Jensen as a mud nailer too despite him arguably putting up the hardest el cap route ever.

Richard is a wackadoodle rightie but a hell of an aid climber who deserves praise for that ability.

Beyer chopped bolts on WEML to justify (in his own mind) drilling his own shitty routes. Many things are forgivable if you have a sense and respect for history. End of discussion.

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Weird, everything I stated has been corroborated by others in this thread. 

You gotta ask yourself: Why the fuck would I want to repeat one of his obscure choss piles? I slam Richard Jensen as a mud nailer too despite him arguably putting up the hardest el cap route ever.

Richard is a wackadoodle but a hell of an aid climber who deserves praise for that ability.

Beyer chopped bolts on WEML to justify (in his own mind) drilling his own shitty routes. End of discussion.

So you have not repeated any of them, thats exactly what I figured! Haters gonna hate!

m Mobes wrote:

So you have not repeated any of them, thats exactly what I figured! Haters gonna hate!

Am I wrong?

Nope.

All I can say is at least the guy gets out and tries different climbs instead of talking shit 24/7 on the internet like some.

What would be the reason to repeat the routes of psychopath who publicly speaking  that he want people to die on his routes and making death traps ?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2403537&tn=0&mr=0