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Climbing shoes with wider toe box?

Original Post
Robert Russell · · Davis, CA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

I am trying to find a first pair of neutral all-around climbing shoes that will fit my foot shape. My second and third toes are almost as long as my big toe. If you look down at the top of my foot, my big toe, second and third toes almost form a straight line across the front of my foot. The first knuckle of my third toe was getting painfully crammed into the toe box of almost everything I tried on which included: BD Momentum, Evolv Defy, and a few La Sportivas. The only shoes that came close were Scarpas but my gym didn't have sizes for me to try on in the model I wanted.

I can't be the only person out there with this foot shape. If your foot likes like mine do you have any recommendations? My feet are true 9.5 D US mens.

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

The Butora  Altura is a good bet and the Sportiva TC Pro will stretch to match many wide feet. If you can handle a downturned shoe, the Sportiva Otaki is a good bet.

Don’t bother with on-line shopping. Go somewhere you can actually try them on.
Mal

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

La Sportiva Mythos

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Malcolm, what am I missing about the Butoras? I have super wide feet, and most Sportivas fit well.  However, I tried several Butora models at a shoe demo, and they were all really narrow.  So narrow, that I could not fit my forefoot into the toe box without having actual dead space lengthwise.

Robert Russell · · Davis, CA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
Forthright wrote: La Sportiva Mythos

The Mythos looks promising. Do you wear these? What size did you buy relative to your true shoe size and how much have they stretched? Thank you!

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55

If it's mostly a gym shoe the Tenaya Mundaka is an excellent choice.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
Robert Russell wrote:

The Mythos looks promising. Do you wear these? What size did you buy relative to your true shoe size and how much have they stretched? Thank you!

It's not that you need a wider toe box it's that you need a toebox where the same is not as asymmetrical as you have a more Roman toebox shape.


When you're buying them make sure that the eyestays have more than a 10mm gap between them. It's such a common mistake for people to buy mythos too big
Robert Russell · · Davis, CA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
Forthright wrote:

It's not that you need a wider toe box it's that you need a toebox where the same is not as asymmetrical as you have a more Roman toebox shape.


When you're buying them make sure that the eyestays have more than a 10mm gap between them. It's such a common mistake for people to buy mythos too big

Now that's information I can use! The graphic you linked says it all -- Roman feet. 

Alex Holmann · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 113

I have this same issue and have noticed most higher performance shoes are much too pointy in the toe box for my feet. Although not perfect, I have found the La Sportiva Otakis and Skwamas to fit me decently. Let me know what if you end up a shoe that fits because I am in the same boat!

Jeff Dull · · Elkhart, IN · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 10

I have similar problem, try La Sportiva Tarantulas.

Alex Holmann · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 113

I have also found leather shoes to be better than synthetic since it allows the shoe to stretch out near my middle toe which is where it is normally tight

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Alex Holmann wrote: I have this same issue and have noticed most higher performance shoes are much too pointy in the toe box for my feet. Although not perfect, I have found the La Sportiva Otakis and Skwamas to fit me decently. Let me know what if you end up a shoe that fits because I am in the same boat!

Chimeras are an even more blunt and less pointy wider toe box than skwamas. They're also much softer, which could be a pro or a con. 

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

I find the 5.10 anasazis have a wide toe box. I use it as an all day shoe for that reason. 

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Depending on how strong your feet are and how much you weigh, I think you might want to try a Board Lasted Shoe?
Something like the Boreal Ballet Gold.

Boreal Ballet Gold

Older Thread

Newer Thread

Also
Scarpa, shoes were once the go-to wide toe box shoe

Scarpa Instinct VS, Showing the different Foot Types

&
Sizesquirrel, - Website to help compare type of feet to various climbing shoes

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Greg R wrote: I find the 5.10 anasazis have a wide toe box. I use it as an all day shoe for that reason. 

Yep.  Note that the overall shoe is actually pretty narrow, so don’t downsize too aggressively, but the toebox itself is less pointy and wider than a Sportiva shoe.

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

I have odd feet- EE width and borderline Morton's toe (2nd toe slightly longer than great toe)
I have tried different shoes and the most comfortable for me ever are my current TC Pros. Pricey but good trad shoes...

Brandon Ribblett · · The road · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 80

scarpa all the way, ive found them to fit a wider fore foot better than any other brand ive tried. 

L Kap · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 105

I have wide Egyptian feet (toes all in descending size). My old resoled Tradmasters are still the best shoes I've ever had and I wish Sportiva would revive the line. Scarpa Force Vs are the best currently available shoe I've found.

Robert Russell · · Davis, CA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Thank you all for your time and input. I'm off to my local REI tonight with a list that includes the Scarpa Helix, La Sportiva Tarantulace, Finale and Mythos (all lace and all leather uppers.) I will post my experience tomorrow.

km ba · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

I have the same issue and I've tried on every shoe under the sun. The results are in, and here's what you should look at. La sportiva otaki, la sportiva skwama, butora narsha, Ocun ozone plus. I have a brand new pair of sz 10 ozone plus for sale if you'd like, cheaper than what you'll find at rei. Will be a performance fit for sz 9.5 foot. I've been climbing in a larger size and I absolutely love them.

PTR · · NEPA · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 5
L Kap wrote: I have wide Egyptian feet (toes all in descending size). My old resoled Tradmasters are still the best shoes I've ever had and I wish Sportiva would revive the line. Scarpa Force Vs are the best currently available shoe I've found.

Another Tradmaster fan.  We must be the only two left!  To the OP: I have Morton's toe and EE width.  My street shoe size is 9.5 or 10 EE.  Size 10 in the Tradmasters work pretty well for me with thin socks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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