Loose Blocks of Idyllwild

In no particular order, here's the loose blocks I worry about in Idy.

-Big collection of a few big boulders at the end of the crux pitch of Consolation, start of Consolation Direct.
-Torso sized block at the start of pitch 6 (per Best of book) of Whodunit.
-TV sized block at the belay of Traitor Horn, just after the "traitor" horn.
-Loose collection of small blocks on the finger crack traverse of pitch one of Fingertrip (going straight up corner avoids them).
-The "spooky spike" of Spooky Spike on Suicide (don't place behind it).
-Loose block in the chimney of Hot Buttered Rump (perhaps won't pull because it's locked in?).

These are just the ones that are on well-travelled routes that have potential to kill someone.

Of course there are MANY more ugly blocks out there. Post here!

Wait, this isn't the title of your autobiography?

Trundle party next weekend ?

Nothing on Sahara Terror?

FrankPS wrote: Nothing on Sahara Terror?

Oh yes, there's one small block near the lone bolt.

Is the loose block on the second pitch of angles fright still there?  It was TV sized.

matt c. wrote: Is the loose block on the second pitch of angles fright still there?  It was TV sized.

By second pitch do you mean the short steep section after the off-width start?

Tahquitz Rock is a time bomb. I have seen more serious rockfall incidents there than anywhere else I climb.
 
 There’s a route on Tahquitz called Zeno’s Paradox. Its exposed location, high on the steep left side of the White Maidens’ Buttress gives an excellent view into the North-West Recess including all the trade routes from The Long Climb over to WhoDunnit.
 
 Zeno’s begins by climbing up and left from the top of pitch two on The White Maiden’s Walkaway into the base of an intimidating left facing corner. After a good stretch of strenuous lay-backing the corner arches left. This is the crux, where you have to climb through the overhang onto a steep face protected by a bolt or two above… It looks like El Camino Real on steroids.
 
 Standing at the airy perch at the base of the corner, I took in the view. Below me to my left there was a fellow sitting comfortably on the ledge at the top of pitch one of The Long Climb. His leader was doing business with pitch two, The Mummy Crack. They appeared to be having a casual time.

 I was about halfway to the roof when I heard the dreaded call from above: “ROCK!!!” I froze and searched the sky for the bombardment to come. It must have taken a big bounce off one of those sloping ledges up high since it was way out in the air – not tumbling down the rock face. It was at least a cubic foot in size, and I watched with fascination as it dropped silently into the cool shade of the North-West Recess, ever closer to the cliff as it fell. Then it hit.
 
 The point of impact was the ledge, right next to the afore-mentioned belayer on the Long climb. There was flash and explosion like a grenade. The ledge and climber were obscured by a cloud of dust. As the air cleared, the belayer began screaming until his lungs were empty. Then, he gasped for air like a drowning man breaking the surface of the water. Then came another awesome primal scream. As this process repeated itself I realized there was another person yelling as well; my partner, back around the corner, who could hear but not see what was happening. It was past time for me to get back to work. Charged with a crazy kind of energy I swarmed up the rest of the pitch like a man possessed.
 
 Later, in Humber Park we met the fellow who was so nearly killed. He looked like a Civil War Veteran, a white bandage around his head and his left arm in a makeshift sling, streaks of dried blood on his face and clothes. He was propped up in the bed of a pickup drinking Coronas and selling his climbing gear. I told him what I had seen, and that he was very lucky. “Your screams were most impressive. You should be an opera singer with a voice like that.”

“I don’t know what you’re talking about. I sure as hell didn’t scream. Can you use a #5 Camalot?”

The loose block on Hot Buttered Rump is definitely something to avoid. It has to be 10’x10’ and god knows how thick. Thanks for the heads up on the loose stuff. 

If you don't like loose rock it's best to stay in the gym or stick to bouldering

Now THIS is a useful thread. Maybe it could be linked or posted to the Tahquitz/Suicide page? 

Solem.... good story- one of so many from that place.
Planned trundling can be a good thing... BITD locals would get to work in the spring and sweep the top of the Weeping Wall to get all the small rocks gone. People walk across the top dragging ropes along behind them. These would rain down and one could not hang at the base.
I think if you started trundling big rocks you might turn Tahquitz into a flat mound.

Kristian Solem wrote: Tahquitz Rock is a time bomb. I have seen more serious rockfall incidents there than anywhere else I climb.
 
 There’s a route on Tahquitz called Zeno’s Paradox. Its exposed location, high on the steep left side of the White Maidens’ Buttress gives an excellent view into the North-West Recess including all the trade routes from The Long Climb over to WhoDunnit.
 
 Zeno’s begins by climbing up and left from the top of pitch two on The White Maiden’s Walkaway into the base of an intimidating left facing corner. After a good stretch of strenuous lay-backing the corner arches left. This is the crux, where you have to climb through the overhang onto a steep face protected by a bolt or two above… It looks like El Camino Real on steroids.
 
 Standing at the airy perch at the base of the corner, I took in the view. Below me to my left there was a fellow sitting comfortably on the ledge at the top of pitch one of The Long Climb. His leader was doing business with pitch two, The Mummy Crack. They appeared to be having a casual time.

 I was about halfway to the roof when I heard the dreaded call from above: “ROCK!!!” I froze and searched the sky for the bombardment to come. It must have taken a big bounce off one of those sloping ledges up high since it was way out in the air – not tumbling down the rock face. It was at least a cubic foot in size, and I watched with fascination as it dropped silently into the cool shade of the North-West Recess, ever closer to the cliff as it fell. Then it hit.
 
 The point of impact was the ledge, right next to the afore-mentioned belayer on the Long climb. There was flash and explosion like a grenade. The ledge and climber were obscured by a cloud of dust. As the air cleared, the belayer began screaming until his lungs were empty. Then, he gasped for air like a drowning man breaking the surface of the water. Then came another awesome primal scream. As this process repeated itself I realized there was another person yelling as well; my partner, back around the corner, who could hear but not see what was happening. It was past time for me to get back to work. Charged with a crazy kind of energy I swarmed up the rest of the pitch like a man possessed.
 
 Later, in Humber Park we met the fellow who was so nearly killed. He looked like a Civil War Veteran, a white bandage around his head and his left arm in a makeshift sling, streaks of dried blood on his face and clothes. He was propped up in the bed of a pickup drinking Coronas and selling his climbing gear. I told him what I had seen, and that he was very lucky. “Your screams were most impressive. You should be an opera singer with a voice like that.”

“I don’t know what you’re talking about. I sure as hell didn’t scream. Can you use a #5 Camalot?”

Cool story bro!

Justin. S wrote: The loose block on Hot Buttered Rump is definitely something to avoid. It has to be 10’x10’ and god knows how thick. Thanks for the heads up on the loose stuff. 

Still thinking about that one braji? Really musta left it's Mark when you TRd it. Block ain't that bad imo

master gumby wrote:

Still thinking about that one braji? Really musta left it's Mark when you TRd it. Block ain't that bad imo

Obviously it was bad enough to make the original post list. You should watch your giant balls next time you’re on it, you might jar it loose when they drag across it.

Justin. S wrote:

Obviously it was bad enough to make the original post list. You should watch your giant balls next time you’re on it, you might jar it loose when they drag across it.

They are actually tiny, I am disproportionate if you knawamean!?!

Jason Voss wrote: There was a lot of loose rock on the second and fourth pitch of the Maiden. Also, please wear a helmet. Saw a guy without one last weekend and regretted not speaking up and advising him.

That entire band of rock is pretty bad, I try hard not to climb under people there at all 

Nothing on the North face of tahq or suicide? 

master gumby wrote: Nothing on the North face of tahq or suicide? 

Well, of course. If we were to describe every rock loose in Idy we would go 50 pages. 

Specific to your question, there's a bad left facing 5.6 corner and some face to the left of it on the right side of North Face suicide, just don't climb those routes.

What do people think of the big flakes after the mummy crack on long climb?

Yeah, Tahquitz has a lot of loose stuff, esp. on the North side. But I'm much more worried about some gumby pulling it loose above me, as opposed to spontaneous rockfall. The latter happens occasionally (esp. early season), but the former happens all the frickin' time.

Sure, wear a helmet. But my preferred strategy is just don't climb anything with a party (s) above you.