Pulley Injury Not Healing

Hey guys, I have taken about the last 5-6 weeks off climbing both to get acclimated to college and to let injuries to the A2 pulleys on both of my ring fingers heal. They never popped, I just experienced pain while climbing. I haven't been doing as much recovery training as I likely should have been, but even after all this time the areas are still sore when I press on them, unlike any of my other fingers. I know they won't be as strong after healing and I plan to take it easy at first, but I'm concerned that there is still pain after what should've been ample time to let them heal. Any thoughts?

Go see a doc or PT that has experience with this sort of thing. 

In my experience, using putty/easy climbing will help get them better. And then they'll break again once you start climbing hard. Best of luck, consider doing more crack climbing/trad/adventure climbing. My fingers have never fully recovered, no matter what I've tried, and it's been over a period of about 5 years.

I found success by using a medium then firm putty (like this) while also taking several months off from any climbing at all. 5-6 weeks sounds kinda short to me. Best would be to see a Dr. since you might have a more serious issue you don't know about.

It took many months for a pulley injury to completely heal for me. Even after it didn't hurt it took six months to stop feeling "tight" while pulling down. See a doctor.

One move too many and climbing injury free are two books that cover climbing related injuries and treatment.  Both have substantial chapters on pulley injuries.  The finger pulleys are tendon sheaths that surround other muscles, acting as re-directs (think like a pulley system).  When they are damaged or broken the output strength of the muscle system in that finger is significantly decreased.  The wait time to re-introduce loading to an injury varies based on injury and patient however it tends to be 4-8 wks.  You may benefit to strengthen the associated muscles I.e. forearm extensor muscles that tend not be weak in comparison to flexor muscles.  

Take home: do research, definitely go to a pt or dc

Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll give it a few more weeks and look for a pt in the meantime.

I had a similar issue earlier this year. Here is really good advice from a pt that specializes in climbing injuries.  

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/esther-fingers/

It's time to go to a doctor.

Charlie Langer wrote:

Hey guys, I have taken about the last 5-6 weeks off climbing both to get acclimated to college and to let injuries to the A2 pulleys on both of my ring fingers heal. They never popped, I just experienced pain while climbing. I haven't been doing as much recovery training as I likely should have been, but even after all this time the areas are still sore when I press on them, unlike any of my other fingers. I know they won't be as strong after healing and I plan to take it easy at first, but I'm concerned that there is still pain after what should've been ample time to let them heal. Any thoughts?

Charlie, hows the finger going after all this time? I'm having the same issues currently.

I found myself in a similar situation when I really got into gym climbing - pain in the pulleys of several fingers. It hurt to open doors and carry grocery bags. Nothing I tried seemed to help. It took at least 6 months of no climbing for the pain to go away. I ramped back up slowly after that and despite climbing a lot more and a lot harder the problem has never come back.

Most good climbing trainers and climbing related PTs are starting to advocate controlled loading of injured fingers very soon after the initial injury. Start loading it slowly on a hangboard, do some easy climbing on it, feet on the kickboard and do up/downs on good rungs. Stuff like this. And progressively increase the intensity until your finger can handle it. Massage it in the morning and night, and try to stretch the finger in various directions. I’d point in the direction of Tyler Nelson at C4HP to find some info about BFR for training.

More time, imho. Pulleys take forever to heal.

I popped one pulley, and i think got a minor tare in another, about the same time. It's been about 6 or 7 months, and the non-popped one has only recently stopped hurting. The bad one still gets tender after climbing too hard, and I still have to avoid super super crimpy routes, but I'm climbing about where I use to finally.

There's lots of great online and printed injury and rehab info - I've done tendon glides, rice buckets, Deep Tissue Massages, and (off)weighted pocket hangs, and tape, since it happened. If I recal, a few weeks of non-climbing are the first recommended stage of recovery, so 5-6 weeks seems like you should just be starting some light climbing again or something. better less climbing now than no climbing for eternity. listen to your body and be patient is my advice.

Mine’s going on 4-5 months and is still not 100%. My last one was also in the 4 month range.

TLDR, but I agree with many other posts here: be patient, this takes more time than you think.  My pully tear (maybe a grade more severe than yours) took 6 months to heal to the point that I don't notice it, and then a month ago (1.5 years post injury) I aggravated it on some pockets and I'm feeling it again...

Oh crap. My A2 ring finger still hurts after 5 months

It is hard to not climb when it is your passion, but listen to the guy that said "climb more cracks". You will be doing yourself a favor. Lay off of the crimps, and get out of the climbing gym.

Maybe learn to tape up to prevent re-injuring the finger.