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Monkey's Fist Protection?

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

I too am a bit suprised I missed your post, normally I try to read all of a thread! Anyway well found, I´d never bothered to look for an English version somehow.

Ľuboš Rybanský · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0
Eric Krantz wrote: First rack:  I never took a fall on the fist though.... too damn scared

What a feast for the eye! I have a technical question regarding these. Do you put some sort of a ball inside or do you tie these just with air in them?
I can tie a monkey's fist with 3 strands of rope on each side with nothing inside and it seems pretty solid when sinched down, but I still worry that the knot might be a little too soft when I take a whip on it and squeeze itself out of a crack.
I know people put balls inside, but I've never heard anyone specify what ball they put there. Is it golf balls, wooden balls? If you have any tips on using these I'd love to hear.

Also, what are those metal things? I don't think I've ever seen one. 

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Lubošy, you do not put balls/rocks into the monkey fists. The size of the monkey fist is governed by the diameter of the cord, and you have to be pretty careful when dressing them. There are good instructional videos on YouTube. You do want the monkey fist to have some softness in it, as you need to tamp it into the crack constriction with a wooden stick. I'd love to post photos of my rack, but sadly, I left it in my aunt's attic, as I wouldn't dream of using it anywhere else other than Czech.

There are now nylon slider chocks, lined with sticky rubber available at Hudy Sport. They are quite heavy, but
work much better than monkey fists.
"UFO Textilní Vklíněnec"

The "metal things" are Frost Tetons, circa 1970s.

Roots · · Wherever I am · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

^Not made by Tom Frost, but Forrest Mountaineering.

Czech climbers are awesome!

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Ah, thanks for the correction :-).  And yes, Czech climbers have common sense.  They climb in the Frankenjura.  It's the Germans who come across the border to climb Czech sandstone.

Ben Pellerin · · Spaceship Earth · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

I dont even like the idea of the small aluminum cam catching my falls..... falling on knots in cord is a nightmare realm I cant even imagine entering into!

Hats off to the ones that came before! And hats off to the crazy ones still doing this!

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 9,136

You might get them stuck up here:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107203457/monkey-fist

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Gotta give Bernd Arnold a plug for knot leading badass of the Elbesandstein.  Would you say the Royal Robbins of the Eastern Bloc?   

Gerrit Verbeek · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

[Edit: I see schmuck mentioned these already]

A Colin Haley facebook post just led me to the Czech Obrworks UFOs, which are fabric cams and nuts which seem like the modern descendant of knotted pro

http://de.obrworks.cz/14-ufo-klemmkeil-aus-textilstoff-grosse-0-25-mikrobe.html
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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