Multipitch Anchor Building

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This is a lot easier than getting people to look at upload links:

Photos credited to those guys yadda yadda TYVM.

If you can't figure out that this is more efficient and faster than two pretied quads being carried up the route or two cordellettes to play with macrame I pity the foo.

Personally I cannot stand carrying extra lockers so just hang my GG on one of the bolts and link with the rope to the other one or give a real belay with an ATC etc. It ain't rocket science but AMGA woofuckery worshipping nubs will tell you different.

I have climbed hundreds of multi-pitch routes and see people building rope anchors virtually never. I think the rope anchor demographic is similar to the anti-vaccination demographic- a few people with a disproportionately large social media presence. Half of you are probably russian bots.

The reality is that there is nothing wrong with a rope anchor, or a sling anchor, or a cord anchor- there are many types of acceptable anchors. Some work better for some situations, and others are just personal preference. You do you.

Full disclosure: I have never climbed a hard enough route that two fewer carabiners were the difference between sending or not.  Maybe I am a 5.12 climber, just wasting my life away by carrying 8.2oz of extra gear.

Brandon.Phillips wrote: I have climbed hundreds of multi-pitch routes and see people building rope anchors virtually never. I think the rope anchor demographic is similar to the anti-vaccination demographic- a few people with a disproportionately large social media presence. Half of you are probably russian bots.

The reality is that there is nothing wrong with a rope anchor, or a sling anchor, or a cord anchor- there are many types of acceptable anchors. Some work better for some situations, and others are just personal preference. You do you.

Full disclosure: I have never climbed a hard enough route that two fewer carabiners were the difference between sending or not.  Maybe I am a 5.12 climber, just wasting my life away by carrying 8.2oz of extra gear.

kevin deweese wrote:

You mean by those sweet pictures of clove hitches? Guilty. 

I still have not seen  an  easy efficient way to use the rope as the anchor when leading in blocks.. I would be stoked to learn it if it exists..  I would want a version for doubles and single ropes..   I often use the rope when swinging leads but never when leading in blocks unless I am trying to weasel out of the next lead :)

Nick Goldsmith wrote: I still have not seen  an  easy efficient way to use the rope as the anchor when leading in blocks.. I would be stoked to learn it if it exists..  I would want a version for doubles and single ropes..   I often use the rope when swinging leads but never when leading in blocks unless I am trying to weasel out of the next lead :)

Use 2 draws. Clove into both of the top, partner into both of the bottom biners.

If you are really pro all you need are two regular biners. You do not need locking biners because a weighted clove will never come unclipped (besides you will have 2 tied in separately).

Tie in one, weight it. Tie into the other loose.

Second comes up you lift up the unweighted clove and throw him in the biner with another one so he is on the "bottom" not trapping your knot.  He weights that one and is off belay.

You lean forward and if you are not using lockers like you shouldn't be, slide your clove up the gate and open it to add his clove in again "below" your clove so you can leave the anchor easily. He is now tied in twice.

Your knots are now on top of the biners with his underneath. After sorting rack he can put you on belay and you can un-clip and go. It could not be more efficient.

How hard is that?

I think some people have been reading too many R&I articles.

bkozak wrote: I think some people have been reading too many R&I articles.

BUWAHAHAHAHAHA.

As always, the Magazine's job is to sell you more gear (support the needs of their advertisers who they work for...). That is their job #1. That commentary is just sad reiterating 2 myths at once.

1. Equalization is a Myth.

2. Shock Loading is a Myth.

3. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that anchor construction.

Either hang your guide device/GG on one of the bolts or loosen the one on the right enough to form a third clove in the middle hanging off both bolts. Clip your belay device to that.

Jake Jones wrote:   Not every thread has to result in chest-beating, sarcastic nonsense. 

Oughtta make that a rule or something.

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: 
...so just hang my GG on one of the bolts...

I love how you rant like a lunatic about how autoblocking devices on the anchor are "woofuckery", and then go and do literally the exact same thing with a Grigri.  Somehow a Grigri direct belay on the anchor is less "woofuckery" that a Reverso belay on the same anchor?

Classic Tut.

Kyle Tarry wrote:

Somehow a Grigri direct belay on the anchor is less "woofuckery" that a Reverso belay on the same anchor?

Tell me more about your mad lowering skills with your Reverso and how many lockers you need to do it. Classic Kyle who just doesn't get the difference  between utility and...

#woofuckery.

Is ‘woofuckery’ a thing now? I kinda like it. 

God, not again...

boondoggle.  I totally get that you don't need to equalize 2 good modern bolts in good stone. still don't see how you  use the rope as an anchor in that shot and anchor off your second  and then be able to transition to leading again without having  2 biners through each bolt which is a PINTA @ a real hanging belay. Note that I am looking for a fast easy smooth method that is good for multiple anchor situations.  some of us actually climb shit that requires a bit more thought... equalization is not a myth....

Personally I cannot stand carrying extra lockers so just hang my GG on one of the bolts and link with the rope to the other one or give a real belay with an ATC etc. It ain't rocket science but AMGA woofuckery worshipping nubs will tell you different.

Did you manage to embed the pictures or just re-uploaded them?

Also, where do you see extra lockers? I carry those 3. in the chained anchor I needed to put the ATC on the second locker to clear it from the rock and allow it to turn more freely. Not needed in the non-chained anchor so I used the free locker for the other bolt, leaving the quickdraws free for the next pitch.

Nick Goldsmith wrote: boondoggle.  I totally get that you don't need to equalize 2 good modern bolts in good stone. still don't see how you  use the rope as an anchor in that shot and anchor off your second  and then be able to transition to leading again without having  2 biners through each bolt which is a PINTA @ a real hanging belay.

Here is an example of how to make the transition for not swaping leads for "series connection" anchors (solid fixed points):

Source: DAV - Standplatzbau Juli 2009

At a hanging belay, this is still faster than taking out extra material from your harness:
1. Clip the quickdraw and the rope to it like any other bolt. You are now protected from falling to the last bolt, again without extra gear.
2. add the two lockers to the other bolt, clove into the lowest one and weigh it. By now, you are resting.
3. Convert the normal clip on the quickdraw into a clove hitch. You can call off belay and add the belay device (in the case of the picture, the third locker on the right bolt for a Munter hitch)

Even if you have some kind of pre-rigged system (except the series connection as shown below):
1. Clip the pre-rigged system to the anchor bolts. The system needs to be deployed (unfolded or uncoiled or whatever) and clipped into the anchor points one handed, without the possibility of clipping the rope until you have finished. Compare this to the previous step 1.
2. Add a locker, clove in and weigh it. Notice there is no backup in case you did a mistake unlike the previous case. Check: Is the master point pointed correctly for optimal load distribution? Does the next pitch traverse? adjustments needed? If everything checks out, you call off belay.

All those adjustments are not needed in the previous case because the single loaded bolt is already multi-directional, and the load is optimally distributed... on the single bolt. It still works for horizontal bolt configuration like the one in the R&I picture.

Note that I am looking for a fast easy smooth method that is good for multiple anchor situations.  some of us actually climb shit that requires a bit more thought... equalization is not a myth....

Bad news: There is no one method for "multiple anchor situations". In the case of your picture, threading a cord seems like a great choice. In the case of solid ice screws, here is another form of "series connection" that seems very fast:

You can add a second locker in the soft loop (master point) and clove into that one to ease transitions.
Source: DAV - Standplatzbau Juli 2009

Check out the document for a variety of ways to link anchor points with the rope or minimal amount of extra material.

Nick Goldsmith wrote: boondoggle.  I totally get that you don't need to equalize 2 good modern bolts in good stone. still don't see how you  use the rope as an anchor in that shot and anchor off your second  and then be able to transition to leading again without having  2 biners through each bolt which is a PINTA @ a real hanging belay. Note that I am looking for a fast easy smooth method that is good for multiple anchor situations.  some of us actually climb shit that requires a bit more thought... equalization is not a myth....

Okay have I got this right ?
- starting at the tools; left foreground, They are not engaged but the cord is, & you're clipped in  ~ then~ green "Reverso" belay device
- screw, equalized by the blue sling to point out of frame, you are clipped to it and the pillar thread, independent of one another,                                                                                            ice pillar threaded in 2- places & equalized - all connected but not equalized but close to tight to avoid shock loading if anything gives...
So cool! if you've been "there" the picture lets you almost taste the pace~ just excellent!
 is that spring conditions last week at the lake? what line  "The Prom." ?
The picture ! just great can I add it to the Northeast porn thread or will you? it's like a dream!
 Tradman! thanx for posting it!

Fran M. Thank You for posting this

Fran M wrote:

Here is an example of how to make the transition for not swaping leads:

Source: DAV - Standplatzbau Juli 2009

At a hanging belay, this is still faster than taking out extra material from your harness:
1. Clip the quickdraw and the rope to it like any other bolt. You are now protected from falling to the last bolt, again without extra gear.
2. add the two lockers to the other bolt, clove into the lowest one and weigh it. By now, you are resting.
3. Convert the normal clip on the quickdraw into a clove hitch. You can call off belay and add the belay device (in the case of the picture, the third locker on the right bolt for a Munter hitch)

Even if you have some kind of pre-rigged system (except the series connection as shown below):
1. Clip the pre-rigged system to the anchor bolts. The system needs to be deployed (unfolded or uncoiled or whatever) and clipped into the anchor points one handed, without the possibility of clipping the rope until you have finished. Compare this to the previous step 1.
2. Add a locker, clove in and weigh it. Notice there is no backup in case you did a mistake unlike the previous case. Check: Is the master point pointed correctly for optimal load distribution? Does the next pitch traverse? adjustments needed? If everything checks out, you call off belay.

All those adjustments are not needed in the previous case because the single loaded bolt is already multi-directional, and the load is optimally distributed... on the single bolt.

So, maybe 1 step less, but with clear increased complexity. What do you think?

Bad news: There is no one method for "multiple anchor situations". In the case of your picture, threading a cord seems like a great choice. In the case of solid ice screws, here is another form of "series connection" that seems very fast:

You can add a second locker in the soft loop (master point) and clove into that one to ease transitions.

Source: DAV - Standplatzbau Juli 2009

Check out the document for a variety of ways to link anchor points with the rope or minimal amount of extra material.

yes it is the prom about a month ago in a rageing snowstorm.  The thing about using  fixed threads is they have often started to melt out but are still good. Some places like the cave on the prom get riddled with cord so you have to really have a critical eye for what is safe and what is not..  it is definatly not just 2 bolts. I did add one screw...  and nothing is perfect or AMGA certified...