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lightweight full featured harness w adjustable leg loops?

Original Post
mike again · · Ouray · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 47

Can anyone recommend a lightweight harness with adjustable leg loops? When last I was on the market a few years ago, I would have bought the Petzl Sitta if it had adjustable leg loops (and a different color scheme LOL). Is there anything similar to that (full features and low weight) out there you have seen (and ideally could recommend)? Most interested in using it for trad, alpine, and ice, and would prefer not to have a harness quiver if I can get away with just one.
Thanks,
Mike
Edit: Should mention that I have an ar935A currently, and: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116383847/some-thoughts-on-the-arcteryx-ar-395a-harness

Drew Nevius · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,621

Without doing any searches, off the top of my head I’d suggest the Petzl Corax. Not super beefy padding like a wall harness, but plenty of features. I think they market it as a “trad/multipitch” harness

Ben Schuldt · · Bowling Green, KY · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 0

Dead Bird AR-395a. Adjustable, comfy, packs small, light weight, ice clipper slots.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,550

AR-395a

Dave Baker · · Wiltshire, UK · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 303

Agree - the AR395 is what you want. They go on sale from time to time. I got mine new for around $75.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

Camp Alpine Flash. I really like mine.  I use it for ice and alpine climbing. 

B DeMers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 46

What's the comfort level like in an AR395-a?

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,550
B DeMers wrote: What's the comfort level like in an AR395-a?

Pretty good weight distribution but it's not made for sitting in long periods like big wall or route cleaning.

Try Cam · · Ft. Wayne, IN · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Camp Topaz. Super light and cheap ($40) and surprisingly comfortable. I bought them for the school climbing club that I run. Only two gear loops, but that teaches you to not bring doubles of the kitchen sink like a ninny.

TJ B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 26

Another vote for AR-395a. Lightest harness ever and I think it’s pretty comfortable. However, I don’t do big walls but I think it’s fine for multipitch

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Jake Jones wrote: Another vote for the AR.  They are pricey though.  For a slightly heavier, but more custom option, check out Misty Mountain's build-a-harness.  Pretty much any option you want.  Just as pricey if not more expensive than the Arcteryx harness, however.  I've had MM and Arcteryx, and for my build, I go with Arcteryx, plus I had an issue with the speed adjust leg loops on the Misty harness loosening with every climb.  They would hold fine when loaded, but loosen with loading and unloading.  Not an alarming amount- just an annoying amount.  If you plan on sitting in it for a while, I would maybe go with the MM with the extra wide loops and waist belt- or consider an aid-specific harness.  But since you're asking for light weight, I assume you know you're not going to find something ultra light that will give you extra comfort for hanging in it.  It all depends on what you're using it for.  For not a ton of hanging, weight savings,  packability, and big loops, the dead bird harness is tough to beat.  I also really like the tilted gear loops that shuffle everything forward just a bit- YMMV.

This ^^^

MM makes bomber gear, I have owned Cadillacs and currently the Turbo. Love the Turbo, but I prefer fixed leg loops, they make other models with adjustable leg loops. It is simply the best trad harness I have ever owned for what I do with it. Edit: I mostly do multi-pitch trad, but I use a gear sling, so don't need to find space for all the gear on my harness, but the Turbo probably could fit a moderate rack on it.

Misty Mountain 

They have other harnesses that are more lightweight, and others that have more features, but they are all really good for their intended purposes.
Drew Nevius · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,621

I have a MM Cadillac as my new harness, but didn’t suggest it because it’s pretty bulky compared to the Petzl Sama I have before it. I’m mostly just single pitch cragging though, so weight and bulk isn’t really an issue for me

Try Cam · · Ft. Wayne, IN · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Misty makes the best harness for sure. Burly, comfortable, custom and made in the US by dirtbags for dirtbags.

Alexander Stathis · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 657

Could take a look at the Technician harness from BD too. It's the same as the BD Solution, but has adjustable leg loops and maybe an extra gear loop?

mike again · · Ouray · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 47

Edited the OP to mention that I have an AR 395a and have liked it, with some caveats:
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116383847/some-thoughts-on-the-arcteryx-ar-395a-harness
But glad to know that this is a contender for other as well... 

Racechinees . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Sunny-D wrote: Camp Alpine Flash. I really like mine.  I use it for ice and alpine climbing. 

+1, I even use it in the gym, crag, etc. Not because it's the only one I got, I got others too. But liked it so much, I already bought a second one. 
stolo · · Lake Norman, NC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 214

Edelrid Orion. 

Nathan G · · Utah · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 10

What about the Petzl Aquila? Comes in a little heavier than the Sitta, but it's full featured. https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Harnesses/AQUILA 

Damage Dan · · The Mountains · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

Petzl Aquila.
Lightweight at 365g (size M) and as comfy as the Hirundos. Not too expensive and no fancy color.

Parker D · · BC · Joined May 2017 · Points: 60

BD Technician all the way, put two heavy seasons on mine and she's still perfect. Best LW harness on the market IMO for all around use (trad, sport, ice) with adjustable leg loops that won't destroy your wallet. 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
M Jarmland wrote: Counting grams matters because in the end it’s not about grams, it’s about kilos.. Who said that?

None of the harnesses mentioned so far are very light weight at all. I’m looking to replace my old and trusted Petzl Sama because it’s old and heavy at 370 grams.

The AR 395 at 395 grams is out of the question for me. The alpine flash too, at 300.

The regular Camp Flash might be an option at 230-240 grams. A friend of mine got it and added his own ice clipper slots. He likes it.
The most interesting option seems to be the Blue Ice Choucas though, at around 170 grams. Fully functioning harness with gear loops and ice clipper slots.

I don't see the point in trying to shave grams off a harness, when losing a few POUNDS off of the gut will yield better results. Unless the OP is already at 8% body fat, then by all means get a super lightweight shitty harness.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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