Sewn prusik loop

So I bought a Blue Water sewn prusik loop because I needed something to get the free shipping from backcountry. However, it has a plastic wrapping on it that makes it not bend enough to loop it around the rope twice. Is that there for a reason? Can I cut it off? It's still sewn together underneath.

Because it's so stiff it only wraps the ropes once (in a rappel situation with both ropes going through the ATC) and while it creates friction, it will still slide down slowly. I haven't used it outside yet, but I wanted to know what people think. 

If you can't get at least two turns it is worthless, and the ability to make three turns when higher friction is needed is desirable.

I find that sewn prussiks are more awkward to deploy than knotted ones, because the sewing takes up so much lengthwise space.

Yes to me too that looks rather small for a prussik from what ive seen. I think the three wrap is the standard? And whats the thickness of the one you received?

I have 5mm cords (might be 6mm) tied with a double fishermans for my two small harness prussik loops, 50cm length when tied.

But the blue water sling looks so small thats strange that it is a pre made prussik loop

Yea it's way too small, maybe it would be fine for 8 or 9mm rope, but it's too small for a 10mm.

Its 6.5mm thick. But only 11 inches. I mean I only got it to get the free shipping, but it does feel like a waste

I'll just have to get some cord from rei or something and make my own

I'm allergic to carrying "special purpose" gear, so I reuse a 2-foot sling from an alpine draw instead (with a klemheist knot). Maybe not as "optimal" as a tied cord, but way more convenient cutting down on carrying extra bulk/weight.

Patrik wrote: I'm allergic to carrying "special purpose" gear, so I reuse a 2-foot sling from an alpine draw instead (with a klemheist knot). Maybe not as "optimal" as a tied cord, but way more convenient cutting down on carrying extra bulk/weight.

I’m sure you guys already know this, but to clarify for other readers, be sure that you’re using a nylon slings instead of a dyneema for friction hitches, due to melting point issues. 

You want your prussik cord to be 2mm or less than the rap line. Smaller will bite more and be harder to move but be more secure as a “third hand.” I personally use  a sterling hollow block sewn loop because it has superior friction on icy ropes. 5mm cord on a standard dynamic rope is fine. All it needs to do is hold body weight.
Again, I’m sure you know this but when using a rap backup below the device, keep your hand above it and slide it from above instead of grabbing the hitch itself.  I had a friend panic and hold his  prusik open when he got out of control and he ended up skating down rope 130 feet and broke his back. 
Extending the rap device on a PAS or sling makes a world of difference in the efficacy of rap backups. But if you want the safest way, simulrap with both parties using Gri-style devices and clip a four-footer between your belay loops if you’re sketched. Obviously, practice on the ground first. On known rappels,  simulrapping diminshes rockfall hazards, improves comms, and gets you down faster. 

Yeah, I bought a bluewater sewn Prusik early on and quickly decided it wasn't for me.

If you find yourself needing to spend a bit more to get free shipping again, try out the Sterling Hollow Block. I think it's a much better execution of the sewn Prusik loop concept. It's made with aramid fiber that is flexible and withstands the friction of sliding over rope well, and the hollow construction makes it lie flat on the rope rather than "bite" like thin Prusik cords, which seems to make it easier to find the right amount of friction. Everyone I've gotten to try it has been pretty sold on them.

Fritz Nuffer wrote:

I’m sure you guys already know this, but to clarify for other readers, be sure that you’re using a nylon slings instead of a dyneema for friction hitches, due to melting point issues. 

You want your prussik cord to be 2mm or less than the rap line. Smaller will bite more and be harder to move but be more secure as a “third hand.” I personally use  a sterling hollow block sewn loop because it has superior friction on icy ropes. 5mm cord on a standard dynamic rope is fine. All it needs to do is hold body weight.
Again, I’m sure you know this but when using a rap backup below the device, keep your hand above it and slide it from above instead of grabbing the hitch itself.  I had a friend panic and hold his  prusik open when he got out of control and he ended up skating down rope 130 feet and broke his back. 
Extending the rap device on a PAS or sling makes a world of difference in the efficacy of rap backups. But if you want the safest way, simulrap with both parties using Gri-style devices and clip a four-footer between your belay loops if you’re sketched. Obviously, practice on the ground first. On known rappels,  simulrapping diminshes rockfall hazards, improves comms, and gets you down faster. 

Simul rapping is a useful tool in the right circumstances and can be done safely, but it is definitely not "the safest way" to rap. You're trading efficiency for safety and doubling your risk exposure. The same mechanism that defeated your friend's back-up is a potential failure mode rapping with a grigri, panicking and holding the brake open, and if you're simul rapping when this happens you're both going to deck. Leaving no one in the party uninjured and able to help even if either of you survive the impact. 

Fritz Nuffer wrote:
. But if you want the safest way, simulrap with both parties using Gri-style devices and clip a four-footer between your belay loops if you’re sketched.

I think this is terrible advice. 

Better start a new thread OP, because this one just got derailed.

Simul-rapping is the safest method? Really?

I am no expert, nor have i done a "simul-rappel" before, but I was reading this on the web after I saw your responses - so beginners like me can get some more elaborated info on this and why it is considered bad to do this

https://www.climbing.com/skills/4-reasons-not-to-simul-rappel/

David Kerkeslager wrote: Yeah, I bought a bluewater sewn Prusik early on and quickly decided it wasn't for me.

If you find yourself needing to spend a bit more to get free shipping again, try out the Sterling Hollow Block. I think it's a much better execution of the sewn Prusik loop concept. It's made with aramid fiber that is flexible and withstands the friction of sliding over rope well, and the hollow construction makes it lie flat on the rope rather than "bite" like thin Prusik cords, which seems to make it easier to find the right amount of friction. Everyone I've gotten to try it has been pretty sold on them.

Damn, I wish I had seen that before I bought the one I did. Oh well, next time I guess. That definitely looks better. Would you recommend the 13.5" or the 19"? Maybe 19" to be sure I can get enough wraps

Andrew F wrote:

Damn, I wish I had seen that before I bought the one I did. Oh well, next time I guess. That definitely looks better. Would you recommend the 13.5" or the 19"? Maybe 19" to be sure I can get enough wraps

the 13.5 is perfect for backing up rappels or 99.9% of the other things youd use a friction hitch for as long as you have a sling for a foot loop if necessary. I feel the 19" is a weird length.

Andrew F wrote:

Damn, I wish I had seen that before I bought the one I did. Oh well, next time I guess. That definitely looks better. Would you recommend the 13.5" or the 19"? Maybe 19" to be sure I can get enough wraps

I have both, and I would say it depends what you're going to do with it, but my guess is you probably want the shorter one (13.5").

I use the 13.5" for backing up my rappels, so it's always on my harness. I've had no problem getting 3 wraps on ropes as thick as 10.1mm, and I can't imagine I'd ever want 4 wraps--I usually do 2. The 19" is too long--I do extended rappels, and even with the extension the 19" would run into my rappel device. I've practiced ascending the rope with the 13.5", and while possible, it's terrible, but I've not yet had to do that in my regular climbing so I'm not concerned.

While top rope soloing (which I don't do much any more), I use the 19" to ascend the rope and to switch to rappel mid-route. The extra length makes it easier to slip a foot into or get it out of the way when you're working on another device. It's the perfect length for unweighting your TR solo devices, but needs to be extended with a sling if you want to step up with it comfortably. But if you're planning to ascend or back down and re-work sections on TR solo often, there are better solutions (see what Dave MacLeod does).