Tying Cloves

Hi guys,

So im having some trouble tying clove hitches. I think it may be the most important knot in
climbing, so I want to be able to tie it with one hand, left and right, and have the orientation of the tails of the clove where i want them. 

Dont know why but im having a hell of a time figuring this out. The problem is i cant seem to find a resource on the web, or a book that shows multiple ways of tying them, does anyone know where i can find this info? 
Thanks guys,
North Col

​This​ is the only one-handed clove you need to know IMO. You can make both loops and oppose them with one hand before putting them on the 'biner but that's just a party trick with no practical use I can think of. 

Did you check the "animated knots" website?

So I’ll start by saying that I gave up on tying one-handed cloves.  It just wasn’t practical or reliable enough for me to use, and two-handed I never screw it up so I just do that.  That being said, if you really want to impress your friends...

This also shows the one-handed munter, another must-know knot. To this day I can’t tie either one of them with two hands. My brain just cannot grasp it for some reason.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.climbing.com/.amp/skills/learn-this-one-handed-munter-and-clove-hitches/

It is just 2 opposed half hitches. Do a half hitch one way then reverse it. Simple.

Maybe perfect the half hitch first?

Forget one-handed.  You never need to do this.  Learn the "make two loops the same way and cross them"  method and learn to clip the rope in and then build the rest of the clove on the carabiner.  That's it.

Interesting responses.  I literally always do a one handed clove hitch, I find it easier and quicker.  I can't do a munter one-handed, I usually do that one with two hands before putting it on the carabiner. 

I disagree with rgold, once I learned the one-handed clove I pretty much never did it the two-loops way again. it's conceptually easier for a lot of people to learn too.

No, Rich nails it. In 40 years never needed to do it one-handed and its faster with two hands. Plus, you are gonna adjust with two hands anyways etc. With two hands its all one operation.

Never learned to tie it one-handed. Never found myself in a situation where I needed it, either.

Well great, this is what we need: a brisk debate on how to tie one of the easiest knots in existence. Do we need an animation of how to tie an overhand knot while we are at it?

When I mentioned clipping the rope in and building the clove hitch on the carabiner, that's the one-handed method.  But it is better to do it two-handed because it gets the adjustment and tightening right at once.

Somewhere, there is an amusing AMGA guide video illustrating the one-handed method and extolling it because the leader can hang on for dear life with one hand while the other hand installs the clove.  Apparently, the second is a clear and present danger, ready at any moment to rip the leader off his or her stance before they get themselves attached to the anchor.  Adventure climbing at its finest.

Hang on, I found it:

When it comes to stupid clove hitch tricks, here's some I like and use occasionally

Jaren Watson wrote:

I respectfully request an invitation to one of these parties. They sound wild.

Think about it for a bit - they're shockingly boring. After the knot tying, the highlight is a rousing game of Scrabble.

And seriously, the question posed by the OP can't possibly be real.

Marc801 C wrote: And seriously, the question posed by the OP can't possibly be real.

Yea, I think NC is running out of queries.

I'm with RG - no need for a BEGINNER to dial in one handed knots.

If OP's "give us this day our daily question" routine keeps up, by the time next rock season rolls around up north, we'll be mired in the nuances of "How do I know when my rope is no longer dry-treated enough?", "How heavy do I need to be before the extra stretch in nylon quickdraws provides a lower impact force than Dyneema quickdraws?", and "At what temperature should I switch from XS Edge-soled shoes to XS-Grip-soled shoes".

Because beginner minds need to know.

I'm almost out of popcorn.

Im asking because i was having trouble tying the cloves and having my rope cross over the wrong way. No one is forcing you guys to reply. Thanks to all who did with helpful information. If this is to basic for some of you, dont feel the need to reply.
When these threads are done, i go back and review, extract information i find valuable, add it to my notes and practice it. Im not asking questions to entertain or troll. I ask everyday because i practice every day. 

Thanks to all who replied

I was glad to know the one handed clove for tying off chicken heads recently. 

Gunkiemike wrote:

Yea, I think NC is running out of queries.

I'm with RG - no need for a BEGINNER to dial in one handed knots.

If OP's "give us this day our daily question" routine keeps up, by the time next rock season rolls around up north, we'll be mired in the nuances of "How do I know when my rope is no longer dry-treated enough?", "How heavy do I need to be before the extra stretch in nylon quickdraws provides a lower impact force than Dyneema quickdraws?", and "At what temperature should I switch from XS Edge-soled shoes to XS-Grip-soled shoes".

Because beginner minds need to know.

I'm almost out of popcorn.

How long the”dry” properties of a dry rope last, from what I can gather, has to do with a few factors, whether the rope has a sheath only dry treatment (will only absord 30%- 40% of its weight in water) or a Sheath and core treatment (usually less than 15% absorption of its weight in water) with usually a fluoropolymer treatment which I am surprised to know is basically teflon. I would guess the best way to tell if the teflon has diminished would be if the rope is absorbing significant water weight, rough handling through a belay device as opposed to a “smooth, coated” feeling, fraying of the sheath of the rope and visible particles in the sheath structure of the rope.

From accounts I have read, it appears that the Vibram XSGrip is stickier and softer than XS Edge. I dont think temperature plays a huge factor in the choice of the rubber compound as most shoes are designed for  approximately 32° to 41°F, but obviously there must be exceptions to this rule. I think the rubber needed depends on whether you are doing a majority of either smearing or edging on your route as well. But if I was to guess Id say XSGrip for the colder days, XS Egde for the warmer. Optimal temperature for each compound would be too hard to determine due to so many subjective/objective  factors such as climber skill & experience, type of rock climbed and its specs like grain size, grain shape, polished rock etc.

I can't find much on "How heavy do I need to be before the extra stretch in nylon quickdraws provides a lower impact force than Dyneema quickdraws?" but since you are in the off season I'm hoping you have some time to shed some insight on this one.

Im a beginner, but I'd still like to know.

Of course as we all know I have limited physical experience with the above - This is based off my research ive done tonight. Id appreciate if you guys could correct me where you see anything wrong or if you can provide me with more insight!

North Col

the no-handed clove is way faster, lighter, just generally neater.  you guys all suck.  

You don’t have to be heavy but you do have to be dense.

(Dense enough to use really fuzzy dyneema)

rgold wrote: Forget one-handed.  You never need to do this.  Learn the "make two loops the same way and cross them"  method and learn to clip the rope in and then build the rest of the clove on the carabiner.  That's it.

That is the worst advice ever. Why would you suggest NOT learning something. I can not believe this comes from an educator, math of all things. 

Now, it is even more amusing from someone who advocates end bound bowline, a rather complicated knot, when there is a lowest denominator, figure 8, available and very frequently used ;)