The latest, greatest 2:1 hauling kit
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Skot Richards and I just climbed Aurora on El Cap and we used his hauling kit shown in the photo.
It is totally da bomb! The Z cord is some beef, totally no stretch spectra type stuff that Skot found and the whole kit is not heavy it all. If you need to put together a 2:1 kit, simply enlarge this photo to see specifically what the units are and go buy them. Don’t try to reinvent the wheel or be cheap. Skot and I have been working on the 2:1 kit for years and you will simply not make any significant improvements to it at this point. |
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Got a pic of it set up? |
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Looks like this is the 2nd pulley: https://www.cmcpro.com/equipment/pmp-swivel-pulley-1-1/#learn_more |
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Contact Skot for the wire draw. |
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I’ll post a link to the zed cord. |
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Is dyneema a suitable substitute for the wire draw? It's supposed to be no stretch and, in theory, a sling/cord would provide some flexibility allowing the progress capture pulley to rotate if needed to get better efficiency. Just asking out of curiosity, I'm nowhere near ready to enter the world of big wall climbing. |
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Do you ever set up a system with a higher mechanical advantage e.g. 3:1? Just curious. |
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Eric Roe wrote: Do you ever set up a system with a higher mechanical advantage e.g. 3:1? Just curious. Here's a self-rescue 3:1 system adapted from the 2:1 system used by wall climbers that's much more efficient than your traditional z drag 3:1 taught by the guiding industry. |
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I used 3:1 for a bit when I soloed Grape Race/Tribal Rite but it is soul crushingly slow. Really, if you are taking so much stuff that you need 3:1 then you are taking too much stuff. If you are on some PTPP level odyssey than I think I'd suggest multiple hauls with 2:1 rather than a giant haul with 3:1. |
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On my system, I have a dyneema cord sling rather than the wire draw. Skot's system is better though, I have only so many walls left in me and pretty much all of them will be with Skot so I don't feel the need to upgrade my system. |
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Would love to see a pic of it set up! |
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permadraw: |
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Nate, those permadraws are far too long. Skot's is all of maybe 5 inches. |
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Been using spectra cord for my Z-cord since I started. Much better than perlon. |
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eli poss wrote: Is dyneema a suitable substitute for the wire draw? It's supposed to be no stretch and, in theory, a sling/cord would provide some flexibility allowing the progress capture pulley to rotate if needed to get better efficiency. Just asking out of curiosity, I'm nowhere near ready to enter the world of big wall climbing. I’ve used both a wire draw and a shortie dyneema loop. I prefer the dyneema loop as it gives a bit more flexibility in adjusting the placement of things in the system. |
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Skot of course, swages the wire draw exactly where it needs to be according to his current set up. |
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I figured, |
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I’ll admit it’s been ages since I’ve really hauled anything that needs mechanical advantage. So maybe you can help me out Mark or Skot, what service does the swaged runner serve? |
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Mikey Schaefer wrote: I’ll admit it’s been ages since I’ve really hauled anything that needs mechanical advantage. So maybe you can help me out Mark or Skot, what service does the swaged runner serve? Greater efficiency due to lack of any possible stretch |