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A B
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Oct 13, 2018
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West Coast
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 62
I've got a wrist injury and I'm wondering if anyone has dealt with anything similar.
After climbing routes at the gym a few weeks ago, I started to notice a sharp pain in my wrist, but only when doing very specific movements.
I've narrowed the pain down to wrist flexion:
This makes it so that grabbing a sloper with this hand is extremely painful. I've been doing some easy stretching (extension and flexion) for the past few weeks, trying to strengthen and recover, but the issue is still persisting. Worth seeing a doctor?
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Tomily ma
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Oct 13, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 550
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A B
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Oct 13, 2018
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West Coast
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 62
Just googled it... can't believe you're not fucking with me here.
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FrankPS
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Oct 14, 2018
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
Adam Becker wrote: Just googled it... can't believe you're not fucking with me here. Adam, Always choose seeing a doctor over asking climbers for medical advice.
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Jack Sparrow
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Oct 14, 2018
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denver, co
· Joined Jun 2010
· Points: 1,560
It looks like pain related to the tfcc complex. If you need a good brace for this you should use the wrist widget. It was an absolute game changer for me. I had tfcc pain for about two months, with no climbing. I got a wrist widget and wore it for any activity with the wrists. After about a week I started climbing again, with the support from the brace I’ve been climbing pain free for the past six months and after about two I stopped wearing the brace all together. So if you want to try something that worked very well for me try it out.
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A B
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Oct 14, 2018
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West Coast
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 62
Thanks Jack. Very interesting info and I might try it out. However, I think my illustration might have given a false impression that the pain is localized to the pinky side of my wrist — it’s actually in the middle or closer to the thumb side, if anything.
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Jeff G
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Oct 14, 2018
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Colorado
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,108
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Tyler Mcfarlin
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Oct 14, 2018
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Ouray, CO
· Joined Aug 2018
· Points: 0
Hey Ive been having the same problem, do you have any pain radiating or tingling down into your thumb / in your fingers? If you do then you it is likely carpal tunnel syndrome. If it is just localized pain, usually during flexion, just below your trapezium along the most prominent tendon in your wrist it is likely you have either some variation of tendonitis or have simply strained it, probably causing a small tear. Usually with this sort of problem there is also a slight bit of swelling in the meaty muscle between thumb and the hand. Slopers and underclings put alot of tension on your wrist flexors and should be avoided while you are healing. Try to keep your wrist in neutral position while climbing, kind of straight, not wrenched to far in either direction. Massage your inside forearm muscles focusing on areas that are tight or a bit painful. This will break up an adhesions farther up in the muscle that are aggravating your condition. Don't massage directly on the painful area. Do light stretching of the forarm and hand, but dont inflict pain.
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Tyler Mcfarlin
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Oct 14, 2018
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Ouray, CO
· Joined Aug 2018
· Points: 0
But if you do decide to see someone about it, skip the doc and go straight to the physio.
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