2018 The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...

Sadly, this has been destroyed by those that can't keep their banter about fixed gear, "the old glory days", etc. to themselves.  So, if you have a good clusterfuck to show, go for it.  If you have quality stuff to say, such as the integrity of the TR, "lol"s, or something besides, go for it.  If you want to chat about fixed gear, go somewhere else. If you want to talk about how awesome you are, go somewhere else.  If you want to talk about the glory days, go somewhere else.  I, and others, would prefer to not scroll through 30+ pages and counting to see a few sick pics.  Whatcha got that it recent?

Nooo! Let's keep the thread as long as possible :(

What are the limitations of the forum hosting database? lolol

Jill Griffis wrote:

Brand new rope, just waiting for a good shredding. Chatted with this crew, they didn't seem to care. Sad. Hopefully they ended up fixing it. 

Nice!  My favorite part of this is how easily it could have been fixed with a few quick draws.

Jill Griffis wrote:

Brand new rope, just waiting for a good shredding. Chatted with this crew, they didn't seem to care. Sad. Hopefully they ended up fixing it. 

Is this what this comes to?  Aside from padding the edge or extending, the anchor appears to be solid.  Hardly a clusterfuck.  But let's lambast them on the internet!!!

1.  The bottom nut appears to be wedged between two loose blocks held in by dirt.  
2. The largest piece looks like maybe a Green totem.
3. Red biner (top) is resting, gate first, on the edge of a rock.
4. The rope is running, totally unnecessarily, over the edge.  Not only will this trash the rope, it will also be a PITA to belay.  
I’d say it qualifies.  Not the worst I’ve seen, but definitely could have been better.

Brad Christie wrote:

Is this what this comes to?  Aside from padding the edge or extending, the anchor appears to be solid.  Hardly a clusterfuck.  But let's lambast them on the internet!!!

Clusterfuck is all in the eye of the beholder.  If you can't get your climbing rope over the edge, it is a clusterfuck. 

Jill Griffis wrote:

Clusterfuck is all in the eye of the beholder.  If you can't get your climbing rope over the edge, it is a clusterfuck. 

+100

Jill Griffis wrote:

Clusterfuck is all in the eye of the beholder.  If you can't get your climbing rope over the edge, it is a clusterfuck. 

Two full length slings and a couple more biners is all that was needed. Why????? Why would you just say, Fuck It, I want the extra damage to my rope and sawing over the edge....

Here's a link to the "real" ​Clusterfuck thread​​​

Dylan B. wrote:

Meh, that’s a smooth curve and Baraboo quartzite is like glass. Damage to the rope is not the issue here.

The reason to extend this anchor is that it appears the angle of the legs is around 90º, acting as a multiplier of the force on the outer two pieces. (It is possible the translation of a 3D object to a 2D photo has distorted the perspective, though, and that the angle is actually just fine). If it was extended over the edge, this problem could be remedied.
Regardless, hardly a clusterfu&k. IMO, a “clusterfu&k” is a snarl of ‘biners and webbing that requires 20 minutes of examination to try to decipher “what were they thinking?!” This anchor is clean and simple; merely a less-than-ideal anchor with easy fixes. Assuming the placements are solid, I’d climb on it.  

One can't really judge the soundness of the placements from this pic, but I'm guessing that if they were too lazy to extend the master point, they were probably equally lazy in getting a good placement. I may be wrong, but the person setting this clearly wasn't into textbook TR setups.

I'd probably climb on that anchor.  Not ideal, but really doesn't look overtly dangerous from what you can see on the photo.  

Side note: I had to look twice at those pics to see if that was my anchor -- I use those same oval biners, have the same green BD rope, and use yellow marking tape.  Weird.  Not my static rope tho, and I like the adjustability of clove hitches on the gear biners.  YMMV, we're all gonne die, etc.  

I’d climb on it with somebody else’s rope.

This one at least made it over the edge, but I think the first 'biner was unlocked too, can't tell for sure.   devil's lake is to sketchy anchors like state fair is to mullets...

Bump because Jill killed this thread! 

How often do you witness a twofer?

It may not be the Lake, but I thought this thread deserved it. Found at Taylor’s Falls, MN, earlier this fall.

Webbing origami.

You're not claiming there are folks up there as clueless as we are down here?

Love the Ikea rope bag.

That's a nicely cross-loaded single carabiner lower right corner of the final pic.  Ha!

Ah yes, the toprope anchor quickdraw chain makes another appearance!