PBUS vs PBAS belay technique

eli poss wrote:

YGD because that shit is nasty.

Try this:

My vote is for Tecate, it's arguably the best beer you can buy in a can.

amarius wrote:

Actually there is even more efficient way, kills 100% climbers, 0% of the time.

Goes like this -

- Pull, brake with Right, Right is low on the brake side.
- Put Left on the brake side, over Right, just below belay device
- Put Right on climber's end high above belay device
- Get ready for the next belay stroke, this time you pull with Right, brake with Left.

IIRC it is in the AMGA manual.

+1.

By far the easiest and quickest way of doing things. I'm disappointed this is not in the belay video posted above.

Michael McNutt wrote:

My vote is for Tecate, it's arguably the best beer you can buy in a can.

This is a troll right? 

Ever had a “Dales” or a ???? ... or one of hundreds of great beers delivered in cans. You need to drink more.   

You don't need to pull the rope taut with your brake hand during B and U. Just grab the rope firmly and bring your brake hand up so it's within reach of your feeling hand.

Michael McNutt wrote:

My vote is for Tecate, it's arguably the best beer you can buy in a can.

I had a Tecate while I was in Mexico, and the guys I was hanging out with (locals) told me that it was crap, and the only way they drank it was if they dropped a shot of tequila in it. Still tasted like crap, but at least it had more alcohol in it.....

And at least in the Northwest the new fad seems to be craft beer in cans. So no, Tecate is definitely no the "best beer you can buy in a can".

If you’re bending over, you’re trying to move too much slack. From the belay device, move your hand straight out until your arm is straight. If you’re taking more than that, you will move slower since you have to move your entire body to move the rope.

I’ll switch between that and hand-over-hand, sometimes during the same pitch. They both work, and I never struggle to keep up.

amarius wrote:

Actually there is even more efficient way

Tried this today -- Works great.

Thanks to Mark for starting this thread.

Ken

sooo... don't bend over like an idiot.  

Just pull a big arm length of rope... swing your break arm around and UNDER your belay device passing it off to your left hand (doesn't have to be tight)... then just grab that tail and quickly slide that slack out.  Doesn't require you to bend over and your brake hand never leaves the rope.  WHAAALLAH!

Matty Coles wrote: sooo... don't bend over like an idiot.  

 WHAAALLAH!

What if you have really short arms?

So short it takes over a year to reach your keyboard?

PBOS is the safest method we, the old school,  climbers trust the most. The brake hand never lets go of the brake side rope. And it's more natural, fluent motion. Not sure why the under hand method is getting used everywhere. It's not a natural motion and confusing to master for the new climbers. Which can cause unwanted accidents. PBOS is very similar to PBUS( Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) but the main difference is the over, not under. PBOS is - Pull, Brake, Over ( top of the braking rope close to the brake device), Slide bottom hand up.